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-   -   ABS module repair with pics (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/abs-module-repair-pics-1467016/)

coralman 01-21-2013 03:32 PM

ABS module repair with pics
 
10 Attachment(s)
I know most of the jeep forum hate ABS but I like to have stuff thats supposed to work working. This project has been lurking for a long time and I knocked it out finally. I needed the ABS to work because when I rip the steering and suspension out to replace them{brakes included} I need to be able to use the DRB to bleed the brakes if I get air in the HCU. I had pulled a CAB out of a junkyard ahead of time and resoldered the motor connections on the board as in this video.

First as always disconnect the negative battery terminal. Pull the washer tank and tie it out of the way,2 10mm screws. Pull the airbox,3 13mm screws. This will give you room.

Attachment 548010


Pull the three nuts that hold the HCU brackett down. The lower stud has two nuts on it. The first holds on the steering box cover,the second one below that holds on the lower leg of the brackett.

Attachment 548012 Attachment 548013Attachment 548011

Pull the tab release handle on the main CAB connector towards the firewall. This will unlock the connector and allow you to pull the connector straight up.You may to wiggle it a bit but don't get carried away. It has small pins it is not unlike the pcm pins and too much force will result in loose connections. Also, you may have to use a small screwdriver to gently pry that release handle out all the way. In the upper right hand corner you can see the HCU motor connections. Squeeze the sides of the connector and pull up.

Attachment 548014

The harness is held on to the body by two of these. Squeeze the ends together and pull them out of the body holes. This will allow you to get the harness somewhat out of your way.

Attachment 548015

At first I tried to take the 4 4mm screws out that attach the CAB to the HCU without releasing the CAB from the HCU brackett. With a 1/4 drive socket wrench I got 3 of them out.The right rear one was impossible for me to get.Its easier to remove the 3 13mm screws that hold the HCU to its brackett loose, cause it gives you wiggle room to get to that 4th screw. The lines have some spring to them but don't get carried away. Remove the brackett before trying the 4th screw. Tie off the HCU/CAB to support it so its weight doesn't rest on the lines.

Attachment 548016 Attachment 548017

Pic of three of the 4mm screws that hold on the CAB to the HCU. Do yourself a favor and put a piece of tape over the hole at the bottom of the coil tower. Guess where the 4th screw went? Luckily I had an extra.

Attachment 548018

It was pretty nasty in there so I broke out the purple power and degreased and painted after masking some stuff off.

Attachment 548019

Put it all back in and in the next post I'll show you the result.

coralman 01-21-2013 03:36 PM

ABS repair PART TWO
 
2 Attachment(s)
After getting it all back together I plugged in the drb ran the HCU motor and tested for codes. She's good to go. Test drove and I now have ABS again.

Attachment 548039 Attachment 548040

KoreaZJ 01-22-2013 03:34 AM

Nice!

:thankyou: for sharing the pics and write-up!

coralman 01-22-2013 03:47 AM

Thanks Korea. I am just the apprentice OBI-WHAN,lol.

webhostingdesig 02-08-2013 02:35 AM

my mechanic says:

"4009-hydraulic pump circuit - there is power to the pump, and when commanded on, it will not run, the motor is shorted/open and needs replaced"

can this be fixed by working/replacing the module or do i need a $1200 pump?

coralman 02-08-2013 04:10 AM

I would give it a shot before going for the big bucks. Just brush up on your soldering skills. Remember the vid is for a specific controller made by Teves, mopar #56027831. Most likely, the two solder joints that connect to the two motor pins on the board are bad. Take your time, a mini hacksaw will seperate the case, dont cut too far. Most recently I used a plastic welder from HF to break the glue bond and maintain more case integrity. I epoxied the case back together when complete and sealed the gap with rtv.

ZeeJay1997 02-08-2013 04:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by webhostingdesig (Post 14929206)
my mechanic says:

"4009-hydraulic pump circuit - there is power to the pump, and when commanded on, it will not run, the motor is shorted/open and needs replaced"

can this be fixed by working/replacing the module or do i need a $1200 pump?

Most likely the board rather than the pump.

You can confirm this by disconnecting the two pin connector and applying battery voltage to the pins. If the motor runs when powered up directly, you do not need a motor.

Nice write up btw, I had missed it somehow.

coralman 02-08-2013 05:02 AM

Thanks,Zee!

ZeeJay1997 02-23-2013 01:35 PM

Changed out the ABS module this AM. Still have ABS lamp on. Took it out and did some 15 MPH stops so the module could see the sensors, no help.

My old module was giving a pump circuit failure, so I wrung all of those circuits out... all good. Connected pump straight to battery... it ran.

Any ideas besides reading the codes?

coralman 02-23-2013 07:16 PM

Well damn, sorry Zee. I gave it a shot. As soon as I find a reasonable price on a case I'll send ya the koolaid if you want,lol.

ZeeJay1997 02-23-2013 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coralman (Post 15023894)
I'll send ya the koolaid if you want,lol.

LMAO.. touche'

ZeeJay1997 02-23-2013 07:46 PM

Today when I was working on it I was pondering the effects of a cracked header on the ABS module. Then I thought about your heat shields. Probably would be a good candidate for a precautionary mod... if the damn thing worked...

4Slow9erHybrid 02-23-2013 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 (Post 15022212)
Changed out the ABS module this AM. Still have ABS lamp on. Took it out and did some 15 MPH stops so the module could see the sensors, no help.

My old module was giving a pump circuit failure, so I wrung all of those circuits out... all good. Connected pump straight to battery... it ran.

Any ideas besides reading the codes?

Where did you get the replacement module? Was it re-soldered? If you just got one from the junkyard, it's likely to have the same issue. I know this from experience.

ZeeJay1997 02-23-2013 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4Slow9erHybrid (Post 15024230)
Was it re-soldered?

Yes it was resoldered. I need to do some more troubleshooting. I may have a spread pin on the connector.

I'm wondering if it the HMU being inactive all this time has anything to do with it.

coralman 02-24-2013 05:08 AM

I was serious, but the only one I am seeing at the moment is $ 137.00 which seems steep to me. Mine was dead for over a year, but worked when I installed the resoldered one. I know of another in a local yard that I have to go get a BCM out of to match the PCM I already pulled {unalarmed}. I'll get it and have another go. At my yard they see me so much its cheap.


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