I keep getting a "Liftgage Open" message on the information Center. Now the battery is draining overnight and I'm not sure if it is related. There are two parts to the liftgate mechanism: the solenoid /actuator - $81.25 and the actual latch - $62.50. If I had to replace one which would you recommend I try first? Do you think the security system could think the Liftgate is open and not shut down, hence the battery drain? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Start with adjusting the bump stops before buying parts.
Unplug the white BCM (body control module) connector under the dash to the left of the steering column overnight and see if the battery still drains. Test for parasitic battery drain with a multi-meter and pull fuses or the white BCM connector to see what the culprit is.
There's a thread on it here somewhere. The white BCM connector narrows the drain down to 19 things, instead of about 500, then you go from there. Likely it's the VIC sending a warning after the key is shut off, which could very well be caused by the liftgate sensor being bad.
The hatch is either closed or is not closed so I wouldn't mess with the bumpstops. I would think it's the switch. With all 4 doors closed for a long time, open the hatch and close it. The light should go out quite quickly compared to when a door is closed. The light may not even come on when you open the hatch because it already thinks it is open. Don't assume it needs to be replaced either, you may be able to adjust it. I don't know what to say about the battery draining, it could be pointing to something more serious.
Thanks Baxy. I never thought to check the flip glass and the you are right the rear wiper does not work. I bought a new latch installed it and the problem was not resolved. Then I put the old one back in (since there was probably nothing wrong with it in the first place) and I am now having a heck of a time getting the little rod to attach properly (the threaded end). The liftgate will close and lock but you can't open it again.
you most likely need the switch in the latch, mine was bad and it would say it was open. i got it from my dealership, and it was like $10 or $20 my cost since i work there (i think), you shouldn't need the entire latch, just buy 2 switches and be done with it
1998 ZJ 5.9L 122k miles - DD, 242 swap, 3.5" RE, 32" BFG M/T, safari rack, roof-mounted lights, custom steel front bumper with hitch reciever, 10k winch :)
2004 WJ 4.7L 107k miles - her daily driver, 2" daystar BB with scorpion shocks.. not too bad! stuffed 265/65/17 General Grabber AT2'S
I had lots of trouble with keeping the threaded rod thingy attached. If that thing comes off it is absolute hell to get in there while the hatch is closed. When I knew I had it adjusted right I put 2 or maybe 3 zip ties around it in various ways and have not had a problem since. Trouble arises when there is pressure on the hatch from inside or the adjustable stops are too far out. I have a 33" back there so I have to always push on the hatch before I pull the lever. If the threaded rod thingy does not sit in flush in the clip, bend the rod so that it does or it may not hold - horrible design.
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