98 GC Laredo I6 with 4.5" Lift and 32x11.5" tires?
Since this is the first time I have had the money to put a lift on my GC I was wondering if a 4.5" Rubicon lift with 32" tires will kill the performance of my straight six so much that I should just do the Rubicon 3" lift with 31's. I know the 6 has great low end torque but those are big tires to have to turn.
1. This GC sits in the garage most of the week because I have a company car.
2. I do want to take it off road but not too crazy because my pockets aren't too deep for repairs (I am a computer tech, not so much of a gear head but learning)
3. I live in Connecticut and I haven't found too much for trails up in these parts.
4. I basically want my GC to stand out, be drivable on the roads and highways because it is still my primary transportation on the weekends, but when camping or just going for fun I want to be able to get myself and other 4wheelers out of a mess.
I only ask you all because everything that has been recommended thus far has worked out awesome :thumbsup: .
One last note: I replaced my Catalytic Converter with a non OEM and when I put the O2 Sensor back in the Check Engine light is continuously on. I do not have any performance changes since the swapout but is this something I can fix or does it have to be reset by the dealer?
With the 4.5 and 32s it'll definitely stand out! You might also want to consider some rock sliderz from www.kevinsoffroad.com. They pay for themselves the first time you are offroad and tag a rock or stump.
We have 32's (265/75/16) on ours with the I-6, you definatly notice the performance drop in the acceleration dept, but its livable and still does great off road....
You should not be experiencing a CEL. First, I would check the connector, to ensure it is still connected and connected correctly. Also, I'm not positive about the I6, but I believe you actually have two O2 sensors. The one before the cat, and the one in the back end of the cat. The one before the cat is the one that trips the CEL. I have heard (only a rumour) that the rear sensor doesn't do much of anything, and is really only used by the computer for comparison purposes. So check the front sensor too. In fact, if you only bought one sensor, I would put the new one in the front position, and the old one in the rear position.
Or, here is an option http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=46097 ...... :eek:
Thanks for all the help you guys!
I am definitely going to go with the 4.5 Rubicon Lift and I will check out KevinsOffRoad.com for the Rock Sliderz. As for the CEL and the O2 Sensor, when I ripped off the OEM CAT it had only one O2 sensor in the back of it, and the new CAT only had one hole in the back of the pipe as well. I had some issues keeping the Gibson Muffler in one place especially where the Tale Pipe met the Muffler. It kept sagging and when ever that happened the CEL would go on. Now that I have placed a Hook and Metal Hanger from the underside of the Cab to the Clamp around that area the Sag has gone and the CEL has gone back off again. Very strange, seems when the exhaust system settles the light turns off. I will keep my eye on it.
One last thing.... I have brought my GC to a local repair shop, one I have gone to for years and he couldn't figure this out? Anyway my GC sometimes will lose RPM's (sometimes all the way down to zero) and still be running... It is a quick loss in power, no lights get dim and sometimes if it stalls it starts right back up again with no problem?
1. Water in the gas line?
3. Transmission (I think it may be this)?
4. Fuel Pump?
I only have 115k on it and it is mostly highway mileage... If you guys have ever seen this before please let me know as it has made me nervous while driving 70+ on the highway... Just remember, this only happens once every couple of times I drive it... It has only stalled 2 times that I recall, and the RPM drop is usually only from 2500 down to 2000 and then shoots right back up to 2500 but I can feel the Jeep lose power, almost like it is bucking? VERY BIZZARRE??
Thanks in advance!!!
for this fix i would recomend mil eliminators, at the budget end
cheap mil, its mustang based but the princple would work for your application also
$4.50 DIY O2 Sensor MIL Eliminators
or if you can shell out the 400 odd dollars for a chip and have a dyno/tune shop blast you off a tune to turn off you rear o2's, and on top of that maybe squeeze a little more power and/or mileage from your truck
1998-2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Power Programmer - Superchips - Flashpaq example
or contact Innovative Diesel Performance the guy who runs the outfit name is eric, he is strictly a parts/tune guy, but hes about the friendliest tuner i have ever come across he will interact with you even if you have never purchased from him, top class, he should be able to right you a tune for any sort of chipset he offers that supports the jeeps, you will have to call and find out
you running problem confuses me
does the tach show 0 rpm and the truck is still running?
does the truck lose power and eventually, but not always stall out (to where the tach of coarse reads 0) then restarts readily?
im leaning towards this being some sort of cam/crank sensor failing intermittently, or maybe even something failing with the distributor i would think the water in the gas would be unlikely, and though it could be the fuel pump, i think you would have more running problems. Though these trucks have a history of bad fuel pumps
take it to a jeep dealer, have a driveability tech check everything out before you go fixing, it may cost you 70-130 dollars(1 hours labor or so) to get it checked out but since your a bit of a novice, then it will be the best coarse of action
Wow a six year old thread!
oh damn, guess i should check that, it was active for some reason?
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