96 ZJ Valve Cover Gasket Change, bad CCV Valves, LOOK at this Sludge, What do I Do??? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 02-03-2013, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
josephsproles
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1996 ZJ 
 
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96 ZJ Valve Cover Gasket Change, bad CCV Valves, LOOK at this Sludge, What do I Do???

Here is a photo of the before and after of a clean up of my Valve cover gasket change. When we opened it up, the build up was UNREAL. and this was only 2k after an oil change! So we cleaned it up, vacuumed it out with a shop vac (oil was hardened and "pebble like")

The CCV valves were bad both front and back of the valve cover, we even pressed air into the back one and nothing came through at 50lbs pressure! VERY plugged (btw, you really should change these every gasket change, theyre like 2.50 a piece, obviously it makes a difference!) Here is what I'd like to know..

HOW do you get the buildup out?? I sea foamed the crank case 5 days ago and the oil is thinned like a synthetic oil, luckily I dont have any leaks! and I am going to change and put in the same oil I always use, MAXlife Nextgen 10w-30 semi synthetic. With consistent 3-5k oil changes, would this eventually clean it out? and yes, with that build up, I have developed a Lifter Tick! Any Idea's??

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post #2 of 16 Old 02-03-2013, 05:55 PM
papitt
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Wow that is nasty, but if it were me I'd just change the oil really regular. But I'd swap over to really cheap oil. I wouldn't waist money on High dollar oil and change it every 2 weeks.
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post #3 of 16 Old 02-03-2013, 05:58 PM
newfieZJ
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I'd be concerned wit the oil pump pick up screen getting clogged up but I'd run the cheap oil as papitt said and run a few flushes over the next few weeks , then pull the pan and clean that screen
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post #4 of 16 Old 02-03-2013, 06:01 PM
melk
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Now that is nasty. I've been meaning to get around to doing this for a while now.
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post #5 of 16 Old 02-03-2013, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
josephsproles
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so I should get the $10 oil change oil and basically flush it out a few times? What about that build up, its hardened. Like I said, I sea Foamed it, should I add that to the cheap oil as well every time i change the oil during this "flush" period....
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post #6 of 16 Old 02-03-2013, 06:49 PM
ZeeJay1997
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You lifter tick may go away once you get it cleaned. How many miles on the engine?

I would keep seafoaming using cheap oil. Run it about 500 miles and Seafoam. Repeat. Then when it will run for a while without turning the oil dark, Put some max life in it.
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post #7 of 16 Old 02-03-2013, 06:53 PM
papitt
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What id the CCV YOU REFERENCED. Is that what I call the PCV.
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post #8 of 16 Old 02-03-2013, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
josephsproles
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@papitt yes its the PCV valve, but on here people call it a CCV valve for some reason, though maybe I was wrong. Glad I was right in calling it a PCV valve. the Elbow on the Valve Cover, correct. Both were either inop, or clogged... I replaced those, and the hoses/lines.. both to the air filter, and the intake... also, when I opened up the airbox, the filter had airrated oil on it, the foamy "Cafe brown" stuff. *Not HeadGasket Issue! if it was, it would be in the oil itself.

@ZeeJay1997 Ive 185k on her... so she may be passed that point...Hopefully it works with this sea foam/cheap oil flush...
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post #9 of 16 Old 02-03-2013, 07:15 PM
melk
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Couldn't you scrub off the worst of it before replacing the cover? Just try to remove any large pieces that come off.
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post #10 of 16 Old 02-03-2013, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
josephsproles
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@melk We already did, wire brushed but we didnt want to gauge the parts, so what you see is what is OVERLY hardened... basically, I would need to do a sea foam/wirebrush scrub over like 2 days... and be hopeful not to gauge anything, plus the crud and sludge was hardened and INSIDE the block, basically, what you see on the valves and lifter is a much less worry... I dont want this to clog anything. luckily my oil pressure stays good and hasn't clogged yet.
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post #11 of 16 Old 02-03-2013, 07:40 PM
TipMeBackOver
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i would buy some motor flush and dump it in just before an oil change, like 50 miles before you drop the oil; and change that oil about 3k for awhile, i would run that oil flush for the next 10 oil changes, i have only seen that much sludge from people using really cheap oil and running it about 5k plus between oil changes and its usually caused by short driving distances and not letting the engine get to operating temps,not changing the oil often, and bad pcv/ccv valve
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post #12 of 16 Old 02-03-2013, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
josephsproles
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@TipMeBackOver Well the oil has been changed by me the last 4 times, all correctly done @3000k, and did you know without the PCV valves operable, the oil has less movement throughout the cover, which then gets heated, burt, then hardened throughout the crankcase... so yes, it's already been determined that was one of the main issues causing the buildup...That is fixed, Im wanting to get the rest of the buildup OUT, then i'll worry about taking the cover off and spotless cleaning the valves and lifters....
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post #13 of 16 Old 02-04-2013, 05:52 AM
KoreaZJ
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No PCV/CCV valve on 4.0L

Front fitting is a fresh air supply hose. Rear fitting contains a calibrated small diameter fixed orifice which meters crankcase vapors going out.
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post #14 of 16 Old 02-04-2013, 06:29 AM
nickhay13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KoreaZJ View Post
No PCV/CCV valve on 4.0L

Front fitting is a fresh air supply hose. Rear fitting contains a calibrated small diameter fixed orifice which meters crankcase vapors going out.
And that front fitting is hell to find. At least it was for me.
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post #15 of 16 Old 02-04-2013, 06:35 AM
melk
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You can just put a breather on the front if you prefer. Looks better and less clutter imho.
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Tags
crankcase , oil analysis , oil issues , seafoam , sludge

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