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Unread 01-21-2014, 06:20 PM   #16
tucsonzj
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2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Boston, MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead31 View Post
OP, that's a pretty good price if it's in said condition. I don't believe any v8 zj came factory with anything other than the 249 transfer case. As far as the d44a rear axle, pre96 models I think it was optional, after that, it was stock like the 249 is. Btw, the 249 is an excellent transfer case. Really, the only downside to it is the fact it has a VC that needs replaced on avg every 100k miles or so, and you don't have part time high gearing. In retrospect, replace it 3-4 times from brand new to the vehicle's journey to the scrap yard, I'll take that issue. Everything about which is best really goes mostly on personal opinion, just saying..
Just to make life easy, if you get it and charge up the A/C, get some freon that has the dye already in it. That way if it does have a leak, it'll be easy to spot it. Only time you wont find the dye is if it's the evap coil in the dash(like my problem is).
93 to 95 d35 only. 96 to 98 d44a

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Unread 01-21-2014, 10:16 PM   #17
jimbone007
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: thompson, pennsylvania
Posts: 194
2k doesnt seem bad for that granted its in as good of shape as he says. I bought my 98 zj 5.2 with 128k for 1,100. it was a one owner rust free (beside rocker rust) very well maintained jeep with lots of service record and original window sticker in the glove box.It needed tires and has a sun bleached fender and rear quarter panel though
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Unread 01-21-2014, 10:31 PM   #18
evan1395
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Paradise, California
Posts: 1,033
Gearhead i think when I notice the VC going out, i'd REALLY like to throw in a 231. Lets hope the previous owners were nice on this 249 and I still have thousands of miles left on this TC. I just really hate AWD. I drove a Explorer 5.0 AWD with a 8.8 in the back. Right as I sold it, I could start to feel slight binding in tight turns and started getting loud pops from the TC. Im just hoping this 249 wont give me much trouble for already having 145k on it : /

I heard these Dana 44a's like to warp after awhile. What causes this? What can I do to the best of my abilities to prevent this?
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Unread 01-22-2014, 07:06 AM   #19
Gearhead31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evan1395 View Post
Gearhead i think when I notice the VC going out, i'd REALLY like to throw in a 231. Lets hope the previous owners were nice on this 249 and I still have thousands of miles left on this TC. I just really hate AWD. I drove a Explorer 5.0 AWD with a 8.8 in the back. Right as I sold it, I could start to feel slight binding in tight turns and started getting loud pops from the TC. Im just hoping this 249 wont give me much trouble for already having 145k on it : /

I heard these Dana 44a's like to warp after awhile. What causes this? What can I do to the best of my abilities to prevent this?
Good points. I was just giving my.02 about them.

What causes the 44a's to warp is the middle section of them is aluminum. Over times, the medium or heavy-ish wheeling causes the shaft to start bending due to the weak core strength. It's fixed by reinforcing/building up the center section. This almost always requires some welding and custom fab work so it will take a bit of knowhow.

Sent from mobile, where errors are common and I'm too lazy to correct them.
Gearhead31 Hooah!
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1995 ZJ ltd, 4.0 i6, *cough stock cough* 253,xxx and still pumping strong
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Unread 01-22-2014, 12:05 PM   #20
evan1395
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1996 ZJ 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead31 View Post
Good points. I was just giving my.02 about them.

What causes the 44a's to warp is the middle section of them is aluminum. Over times, the medium or heavy-ish wheeling causes the shaft to start bending due to the weak core strength. It's fixed by reinforcing/building up the center section. This almost always requires some welding and custom fab work so it will take a bit of knowhow.

Sent from mobile, where errors are common and I'm too lazy to correct them.
Gearhead31 Hooah!
How would one go about beefing up this middle section of the aluminum pumpkin?
Is this where I have heard of people "trussing" these axles?
If so, can anyone post some pictures of how I would do this?
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Unread 01-22-2014, 01:38 PM   #21
Gearhead31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evan1395 View Post
How would one go about beefing up this middle section of the aluminum pumpkin?
Is this where I have heard of people "trussing" these axles?
If so, can anyone post some pictures of how I would do this?
Trussing, thank you. I was still nursing my coffee and couldn't think of the word for it.
Here's a couple links for reference
one style
Another style, the more typical way to truss up.

Really, you just need to build up some metal more durably attaching the axle tubes to the "pumpkin". Most people weld up some plate steel or square tubes along the underside.
there are some kits you can buy that are pre-built and you just bolt on and add some tack welds here and there but that's a bit beyond what I know. Someone else will have to fill you in from there.

Hope that helps!
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1995 ZJ ltd, 4.0 i6, *cough stock cough* 253,xxx and still pumping strong
1998 Chevy Cheyenne K1500, 5.7L Vortec, mostly stock
*In peace, sons bury their fathers. In war, fathers bury their sons. - Herodotus
[QUOTE=JasonStebbins]We can call it the Whoosh King Catalog System. :D[/QUOTE]
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Unread 01-22-2014, 02:06 PM   #22
PolkaPower
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Check out post #9. Looks real nice with the skid as well. You would want the skid if you are going to be doing anything more than a small rock bed. One thing I took to heart after talking with my driveline shop is not to overheat the axle tubes when you weld to them because it can warp.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...-d44a-1284172/
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Unread 01-22-2014, 10:41 PM   #23
evan1395
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1996 ZJ 
 
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Location: Paradise, California
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Ok, is there a company or certain individual who fabricates and sells truss/skidplate combo for this 44a?
If so, does anyone have a link for it? Are there UCA mounts on top of the D44A that are incorporated into the truss?

I am going to pick up my bone stock ZJ tomorrow. After small fixes (serpentine belt, brake pads and dimmer switch) and before the lift/tires, I would like to make sure that 44 is ready to handle 33" tires when the day comes to throw them on there. So at this point in time, I think a truss/skidplate combo would be an excellent add on AND assurance for the 44a.
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Unread 01-23-2014, 05:56 AM   #24
PolkaPower
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33's will be fine. I ran those on my d35 and was not nice to it. My buddy runs 33 MTR's on heavy custom steel rims with no truss on his D44a. So far so good. He has been trying to break it for a while now on the rocks. He even jacks it up from the diff. He doesn't care though.
Here is a truss kit
http://www.tntcustoms.com/rear_axle_.../dana_44a.aspx
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Unread 01-23-2014, 09:38 AM   #25
evan1395
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1996 ZJ 
 
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Right on, appreciate all this unput Polka.
Are the control arm brackets neccasary? Or will I be able to utilize by factory ones after installing the truss?
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Unread 01-23-2014, 10:17 AM   #26
PolkaPower
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I can't answer that one. Try calling or emailing the company.
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Unread 01-26-2014, 02:33 PM   #27
evan1395
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1996 ZJ 
 
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Location: Paradise, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbone007 View Post
2k doesnt seem bad for that granted its in as good of shape as he says. I bought my 98 zj 5.2 with 128k for 1,100. it was a one owner rust free (beside rocker rust) very well maintained jeep with lots of service record and original window sticker in the glove box.It needed tires and has a sun bleached fender and rear quarter panel though
Well man, the more and more i look this over. So far all i've done is plugs and wires, the power steering pump needs to be replaced (the bearings inside are squeaking). The passenger side axle shaft seal is leaking, the passenger rear wheel bearing is making noise aaaaand the NP249 is making noises. Along with Pads and Rotors for the brakes.

I bought this ZJ with the intentions of putting money into it. The biggest job I have ahead of me...is the TC swap. As long as the engine and transmission are in tip top shape, I myself consider this a rig well worth $2,000.

Thank god tax return is coming up soon
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