That s shaped print on the board is a built in fuse that protects the 5 volt internal power supply chip. Yours looks like it to a hit but just not enough to blow it.
Take some nail polish and paint over it. it will help in the transfer of heat to the board if it decides to get warm again. I don't know what the current draw is though that "smoke and char" protector but if it did go totally bad you couldn't put a fuse in it's place anyway. There's no room in between the back of the board and the case. There are probably inline fuse links, but I've never checked it out.
I had my PCM re assembled just using ty wraps for 2 years. Just this passed summer when I went to power wash the bay, did I actually take it out and complete the repair. I caulked it with GE 50 yr warranty silicone caulking. The tabs on the case will break off if bent too many times. These tabs are the only mechanical means in which the board is being held into the case. (outside of the silicone caulking)
The board can be temporally installed back into the case and just ty wrapped together without the fear of it shorting out. You should have left enough of the potting compound surrounding the computer that it won't be able to short to the case even though it might seem unprotected.
If you put too much silicone on the back of the board you might not be able to close the PCM up. Just cover up all the components and pins, let it cure, then put a bead around the edges when you install the board into the case. Someone else re-installed the ty wraps back on the connectors just firmly enough to prevent the weight and movement of the wire harness from causing the problem again. You chose.
I would check for frayed wires leading from the sensors TPS, cam, crank, 02s and trans. It doesn't look like that in line fuse can take much more.