96-98 PCM repair procedure W/Pictures - Page 15 - JeepForum.com
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post #211 of 215 Old 01-20-2017, 09:13 PM
ZeeJay1997
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Unless you can get it stall by moving the connector or tapping on the case, it could be counter productive to tear into the PCM.

Not trying to discourage you, but it takes a good bit of skill to get the reflow going your way. Preheating the board with a hot air gun helps. And so does a temp controlled soldering iron. Try it on an old computer board or something to get some practice.



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post #212 of 215 Old 03-06-2017, 02:18 PM
ADOLFOHERNANDEZ
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Excellent post JS97ZJ, thanks for the info, I did follow your instruction, but the layout of my ECU (Jeep Cherokee XJ 1998 Sport), it's a bit different (DSCN1679.JPG), however I did found the series of pins that needed to be re-welded (DSCN1683.JPG), and heat them up without removing the actual welding material but adding some more as needed. To sumarize, the procedure was really simple, BUT when I reconnect the ECU to the three big 32-way connectors (gray, white, black), wasn't unable to acces the ECU via the OBD-II port and nor even the fuel-pump start (which was my starting issue), with the swith on, so maybe you have some insight on what to do next. Thanks a lot.
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post #213 of 215 Old 03-06-2017, 03:02 PM
kg6mov
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If your PCM is now dead, the next step is get a new PCM.

The procedure outlined in this thread is pretty specific to the older style boards, it's not applicable to your PCM. The newer flex boards don't quite have the same problem with solder joints and they're very easy to damage if you don't have a lot of electronic rework experience.


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post #214 of 215 Old 05-22-2017, 11:53 PM
Nemesis158
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Hi there, I was wondering if OP might be around to help me out with a picture.
Ive got a 98 Dakota with this issue using the same style PCM as in the OP. The truck is my only means of transportation and i was unable to find a direct part match available anywhere in town so i ended up getting a unit for a 2000 dakota at the junkyard to stand in while i fix or replace the original unit.

I do not have easy access to a blowtorch and Vice, but was able to get the mb removed from the casing by sitting it above the heating element of a stove. I do not recommend doing this unless you have no other option. Also my unit was a mopar reman unit that was installed at the dealer for a software update TSB (dealer couldnt update the one it came with?) which had silver paint on the casing which caught fire during heating for removal of the mb.

Now that ive got the mb out of the casing i just want to be sure that i didnt damage the PCB in any way while i remove the potting, but the images in the OP are very low resolution and i cant really use them for comparison. does anyone have higher resolution shots of the back side of the PCB with the potting removed?

Thanks
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post #215 of 215 Old 05-24-2017, 07:48 PM
ZeeJay1997
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Can you post pics of your MB? @JS97ZJ


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