96-98 PCM repair procedure W/Pictures - Page 11 - JeepForum.com

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post #151 of 213 Old 10-25-2015, 06:44 PM
JonS
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Very different from mine:

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1998 ZJ
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post #152 of 213 Old 10-25-2015, 06:50 PM
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Another picture:

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post #153 of 213 Old 10-28-2015, 06:28 PM
gmtmvt
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Nice!, thanks for the pic good post, I'll be getting into mine, I've replaced it with a reman one from A1 Cardone, $271 total ( $ 225 + 60 core) -$45 discount w/my points, from online @ Advance Auto Parts . No I'm not a salesman, I went through other suppliers that had a terrible time getting a "usable recycled pcm", luckily I got a refund. The Jeep fired right up. I'll keep the old one for a time, The jeep still ran with it, but still susceptible to the "die while drive" syndrome. I really want to see if those soldered connections where the pins are have continuity and if there are hairline cracks. With the A1 Cardone pcm the jeep seemed to start smoother and the tranny seemed to shift way better, don't know if its my imagination or there really was updated programming installed. Cardones website, has some helpful troubleshooting flyers. they state that the pcms have failure when other components- like "solenoids" are dying and have a higher ohm resistance that normal. Also if any sensors are grounded out and also higher resistance. They say the TCC,"torque converter solenoid" in the AT is a common fail- High resistance, that would stress the PCM. I'll keep you guys updated on the new pcm. I'll be ohming out thaT Solenoid ASAP.. Hopefully no news except keeps on driving. By the way, Cardones replacement pcm is like the one in this post that JS97ZJ has posted, It has the cover and bent over tabs, my old dust cover of course doesn't fit over that type, I kinda made it stay though.
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post #154 of 213 Old 10-28-2015, 06:57 PM
gmtmvt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghiotom View Post
Well, I figured it out. It opens up like a book. You have to overcome that sealant along the edge. This is totally different than the one the OP is working on.

Sorry about the reply out of sequence, Good pic and thank you for the post, we'll need a good strong magnifier to look at those soldered connections at the pins. I had worked in the past on oil burners, the older honeywell temp controllers hi-low limits had the same solder connect problems, very erratic & unpredictable, they had fractured solder at the pins where the relays were soldered to the board.
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post #155 of 213 Old 10-29-2015, 07:41 AM
JonS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmtmvt View Post
Nice!, thanks for the pic good post, I'll be getting into mine, I've replaced it with a reman one from A1 Cardone, $271 total ( $ 225 + 60 core) -$45 discount w/my points, from online @ Advance Auto Parts . No I'm not a salesman, I went through other suppliers that had a terrible time getting a "usable recycled pcm", luckily I got a refund. The Jeep fired right up. I'll keep the old one for a time, The jeep still ran with it, but still susceptible to the "die while drive" syndrome. I really want to see if those soldered connections where the pins are have continuity and if there are hairline cracks. With the A1 Cardone pcm the jeep seemed to start smoother and the tranny seemed to shift way better, don't know if its my imagination or there really was updated programming installed. Cardones website, has some helpful troubleshooting flyers. they state that the pcms have failure when other components- like "solenoids" are dying and have a higher ohm resistance that normal. Also if any sensors are grounded out and also higher resistance. They say the TCC,"torque converter solenoid" in the AT is a common fail- High resistance, that would stress the PCM. I'll keep you guys updated on the new pcm. I'll be ohming out thaT Solenoid ASAP.. Hopefully no news except keeps on driving. By the way, Cardones replacement pcm is like the one in this post that JS97ZJ has posted, It has the cover and bent over tabs, my old dust cover of course doesn't fit over that type, I kinda made it stay though.
Funny you mention the transmission shifting "way better." After my last re-soldering, my transmission which has been shifting extremely well
now shifts as smoothly as any new car and it has 245,000 miles on it! My PCM (picture posted above) looks very basic compared to the book pictures preceding it. All I had to do was reflow the solder on connectors 2, 3.
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post #156 of 213 Old 10-30-2015, 05:15 PM
gmtmvt
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Thats good news, JonS., Well, I said I'd keep u guys posted, The day after with the new pcm, the engine dyed at a stop sign. I started right back up and drove home- 2 miles. Before that same day, it drove for a couple hours and 50+ miles - no problems, even the wife said it seemed to be smoother shifting. I did the key-on, key off thing, and got the mil codes 12, 11, then the 55. 11 is the crank sensor!, I guess if the engine runs for awhile- it clears that code- unsure, back to tracing wires and see what happens.
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post #157 of 213 Old 10-30-2015, 07:05 PM
ZeeJay1997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmtmvt View Post
11 is the crank sensor!
Was the CEL on when you did the key flash? 11 can be the crank sensor or the cam sensor. Depends on the P code.

11* No Crank Reference Signal at PCM No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking.

11** P1391 Intermittent Loss of CMP or CKP Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor

11** P1398 Mis-fire Adaptive Numerator at Limit CKP sensor target windows have too much variation.

* Check Engine Lamp (MIL) will not illuminate if this Diagnostic Trouble Code was recorded. Cycle Ignition key as described in manual and observe code flashed by Check Engine lamp.

** Check Engine Lamp (MIL) will illuminate during engine operation if this Diagnostic Trouble Code was recorded.


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post #158 of 213 Old 12-06-2015, 04:25 PM
dennyps
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Well finally resoldered the suggested points inside the PCM on my 98 jeep grand cherokee 4.0 over this weekend. I meticulously cleaned the mother board (about 6 hours) after getting the case apart soldered all the suggested points on the 3 main and the internal connector (triple checked all my solder points) and put it all back together and within 5 minutes of run time (idling at about 300 rpms and very ruff) it popped 3 new codes: p0505 (idle control system), p0753 (timing solinoid "A" electrical) and p1765 (this one's wacked not sure about it). NOTE: (I didn't have any codes before the procedure and had previously done the clean the 3 main connectors and wrapped with wire ties procedure, but the occasional spit spudder and die routine had returned)
So i Took it for a short drive (right foot on the gas, left on the brake or it would die) and it spit and spuddered awful slowing on the downshift from anything above 1st gear. I figure I must have accidentally scratched or tore something in the MB clean up, so I guess it's a new PCM time.
I am so frustrated and at a loss at the moment for this is my only car and my daily driver.
I would appreciate any help, thank you.

I will also add that I have done the complete throttle body clean (sensors ect) as well as cleaned ALL the ground points under the hood. Replaced a myriad of parts leading up to this procedure.
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post #159 of 213 Old 12-06-2015, 06:08 PM
ZeeJay1997
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if you havent sealed it up you can trace these signals back to the source and check/resolder. Diagrams are posted in the link below section 2.

P0753 Trans 3-4 Shift Sol/Trans Relay Circuits
Current state of output port for the solenoid is different from expected state.

P1765 Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay Ctrl Circuit
Current state of solenoid output port is different than expected.

P0505 Idle Air Control Motor Circuits
A shorted or open condition detected in one or more of the idle air control motor circuits.


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post #160 of 213 Old 12-06-2015, 08:04 PM
dennyps
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Thanks Zeejay, I did put a bit of silicone around outside edge and clamp down the ears but that would be nothing compared to getting the MB out of the case in the first place. In my situation it's worth it to give it a go, all my finances are tied up in Christmas and travel plans at the end of December, so I have more time than money right now.
Thank You, I'll repost the results upon completion.
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post #161 of 213 Old 12-06-2015, 08:29 PM
dennyps
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Okay you got me Zee Jay, what's "section 2" of this thread...."that leads to the diagram" ...obviously not a page # and I'm sorry I didn't realize threads had different sections. Can you help me out here.
Thanks again
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post #162 of 213 Old 12-06-2015, 08:36 PM
ZeeJay1997
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/1...l#post14045654

Not this thread, the stalling thread linked above, same as the one in my signature. I posted the PCM pinouts there. Find the pins for transmission and IAC and work your way back. It might be something obvious, might not be.


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post #163 of 213 Old 12-07-2015, 06:24 AM
dennyps
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Thank you so much Zee Jay, I see it and will see of I can figure it out.
You Rock!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/1...l#post14045654

Not this thread, the stalling thread linked above, same as the one in my signature. I posted the PCM pinouts there. Find the pins for transmission and IAC and work your way back. It might be something obvious, might not be.
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post #164 of 213 Old 12-07-2015, 06:01 PM
dennyps
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Hi Zee Jay, okay well I am past frustrated, I pulled the PCM and with diagrams in hand found, marked, re-cleaned and soldered the listed circuit's in fact I re did the soldering connections on all the recommended main 3 and internal harnesses to be safe out it all back together and wow it got worse. Now it won't idle at all cold, once I warmed it up it runs on a slow idle. I took it out for a test drive up the back roads and it will shift into 2nd but boggs down a bit but when it gets to 3rd it totally boggs down and I must shift it back manually to 2nd. As I stop it in gear I must keep my foot on the gas a bit to keep it from dying out.
The codes I get now are many and varied, I took a reading right after initial start up:
P1388, PO743, PO 443, PO505, PO753, P1288, PO463, P1765. I'm stumped and obviously frustrated.
Any ideas?
I must add that I am a heating & AC guy for years and years as well as an electrician so I do know how to solder.
Thanks for any ideas, I'm leaning towards a new PCM and then sell the dam jeep.
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post #165 of 213 Old 12-07-2015, 06:33 PM
ZeeJay1997
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I think you're to the point now where only you can decide if you want to spend anymore time on trying to repair the PCM. When you put another PCM on it you may want to keep it. I was ready to burn mine because I wouldn't wish it on my worst enemy. 5 years later it's still going from point a to point b, drove it 150 miles today.


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