96 4.0 Crank but no Start - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 01-12-2014, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
ryanfuscozj
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96 4.0 Crank but no Start

Hello all,

I recently replaced the distributor, cap, rotor, spark plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, oil filter and oil change. After everything was put back together, the Jeep would turn over, but not crank. I feel it is the distributor/timing. The number one cylinder is at top dead center in the compression stroke. We indexed the new distributor. Once installed, the rotor was pointed at the 5 o'clock position. The bolt hole for the clamp lined up perfectly. There was fire and fuel, but still no start. Couldn't be more stumped.....any help is appreciated. Thanks

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post #2 of 10 Old 01-12-2014, 09:21 PM
Uniblurb
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So would assume the 5 o'clock rotor position is pointed directly at the #1 cylinder cap contact? Did the new distributor come with a new cam sensor? If so maybe it's faulty and try changing it out with your old one which is easy enough. Is it throwing any codes? Maybe disconnect the neg terminal on the battery again and see if it doesn't reset the PCM to the new cam sensor before trying it with the old one.

Know when I changed out my 96 4.0 distributor with a new Remy w/cam sensor about a year ago I marked everything real good but sounds like you have it right.
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post #3 of 10 Old 01-12-2014, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
ryanfuscozj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
So would assume the 5 o'clock rotor position is pointed directly at the #1 cylinder cap contact? Did the new distributor come with a new cam sensor? If so maybe it's faulty and try changing it out with your old one which is easy enough. Is it throwing any codes? Maybe disconnect the neg terminal on the battery again and see if it doesn't reset the PCM to the new cam sensor before trying it with the old one.

Know when I changed out my 96 4.0 distributor with a new Remy w/cam sensor about a year ago I marked everything real good but sounds like you have it right.

Yes, the rotor is at the 5 o'clock position, pointing at the number one spark plug wire on the cap. We changed out the top black piece of the new distributor with the old one and still no luck. Reason for that was because with the new distributor we had no spark, but with the old one we had spark. No codes, and I have already tried disconnecting the negative terminal but still no luck. We've read forum after forum and have done everything they have said numerous times but nothing....
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post #4 of 10 Old 01-12-2014, 11:44 PM
Uniblurb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanfuscozj View Post
Yes, the rotor is at the 5 o'clock position, pointing at the number one spark plug wire on the cap. We changed out the top black piece of the new distributor with the old one and still no luck. Reason for that was because with the new distributor we had no spark, but with the old one we had spark. No codes, and I have already tried disconnecting the negative terminal but still no luck. We've read forum after forum and have done everything they have said numerous times but nothing....
Well that's strange the new distributor wouldn't provide a spark signal and sounds like it does have a bad cam sensor or wasn't installed correctly. What brand/model of distributor did you buy and where from? Why did you install a new distributor to begin with and was your battery disconnected before doing all this work? And as far as that goes your old cam sensor might be providing a spark signal but not be functioning correctly either.

Try the below cam sensor testing procedure and let us know what you find. For now don't remove the PCM connectors just yet and check mainly for voltage along with continuity on the ground wire (11c).
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post #5 of 10 Old 01-13-2014, 07:43 AM
ZeeJay1997
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fuel where? injectors or rail?

are injectors firing while cranking?
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post #6 of 10 Old 01-13-2014, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
ryanfuscozj
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We have decided after a few days of working on it to get it towed and professionally fixed. I bought the distributor from O'Reilly's and I'm pretty sure it is an OEM one, but not positive. Hopefully it is something fairly simple for them to fix because I don't have the time to work on it anymore with between work and school.
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post #7 of 10 Old 01-13-2014, 12:17 PM
Oldfrog
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Popped asd fuse?

2007 5.7 Hemi, Ltd. QD II -
1997 ZJ, 4,0 select trac, Up country, track lok.
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post #8 of 10 Old 01-13-2014, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
ryanfuscozj
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Originally Posted by Oldfrog View Post
Popped asd fuse?
No fuses were blown, in the fuse panel or box
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post #9 of 10 Old 01-13-2014, 10:22 PM
Uniblurb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanfuscozj View Post
We have decided after a few days of working on it to get it towed and professionally fixed. I bought the distributor from O'Reilly's and I'm pretty sure it is an OEM one, but not positive. Hopefully it is something fairly simple for them to fix because I don't have the time to work on it anymore with between work and school.
O'Reilly's doesn't sell OE distributors and you'd have to go to the dealer or a Mopar online site. Believe as soon as you found out it wasn't providing a spark signal correctly believe I would have returned/exchanged it for another one which works. Regardless, good luck and let us know what the mechanics find.
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post #10 of 10 Old 01-14-2014, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
ryanfuscozj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
O'Reilly's doesn't sell OE distributors and you'd have to go to the dealer or a Mopar online site. Believe as soon as you found out it wasn't providing a spark signal correctly believe I would have returned/exchanged it for another one which works. Regardless, good luck and let us know what the mechanics find.
Well, it was a timing issue. They made the new distributor work, the timing was just a few degrees off so that caused it not to crank. Thanks for all the input everybody! Now time to deal with the next problem...
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