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Unread 04-08-2010, 02:17 PM   #1
WaffelNinja
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95 ZJ - 4 inch RC lift- drive shaft issue

I have a 95 zj with a 4 inch RC lift. I installed the left my self. Today I hit a bump and the front drive shaft broke where it connects to the axle. I drove it slowly to a shop in town and the guys says that because of the lift that my drive shaft is to short. So it pulled out.

He says I need a driveshaft spacer that makes the shaft longer? I can't find one on the Internet so I don't know if it's a real thing or not. He can't find one so he might have to get a shop to make one.

Is this a common problem? What are other solutions? Shouldn't RC have told me needed a longer shaft or something? Why only the front and not the back?

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Unread 04-08-2010, 02:24 PM   #2
ArloGuthroJeep
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Your back could very well be on the verge of coming out.

However, I don't think that is what happened in the front. It broke at the joint, and didn't actually pull apart correct?

If that is the case, was the joint a CV joint (rubber booted at the joint) or a U-joint (like a "plus" sign")?

If it was a CV joint, the angle of the lift just wore it out. Typical problem.

Either way if you can upgrade to a DC (Double-Cardan) drive shaft in the front (that is one where the transfercase has a Double-Cardan joint at the axle end has a u-joint) of proper length you'll be better off then any hokey spacer. If you go with my above recommendation then you'll also need to make sure you have u-joint yokes are both ends (transfercase and differential).
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Unread 04-08-2010, 02:27 PM   #3
WaffelNinja
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The joint had the rubber boot thing on it so its a CV.
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Unread 04-08-2010, 02:30 PM   #4
WaffelNinja
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would i have to replace the front axle if i wanted to upgrade to a Double-Cardan shaft?
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Unread 04-08-2010, 02:43 PM   #5
ArloGuthroJeep
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No, just the yoke on the differential (both sides depending on what is at the transfer case end). The TC end is an easy swap. The differential is more difficult. The yoke is on there snug (think 200+ ft-lbs of force) and is holding a crush-sleeve under the proper tension. When you replace the yoke, you ideally want to put that crush sleeve under the same tension. Not doing so puts the bearings and gears at risk for premature failure. They make adapter plates that go from the CV style flange to a u-joint yoke...that is the easiest if you don't want to risk it or spend money to have someone else do it.
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Unread 04-08-2010, 03:41 PM   #6
WaffelNinja
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What would be the cheepest fix
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Unread 07-12-2010, 03:15 PM   #7
newkid92
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so what all should be replaced? i am getting this lift i believe but im not sure what all needs to be done as far as a new drive shaft and sye and things like that. any help would be great
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