The check engine light is off but i think i might of found the problem. I just went to mess with the jeep since im on vacation. I found a metal plug that goes in the top of the bellhousing on the trans is loose i asked my gf about it and found out the bolt or screw that holds it in place is broke off. It was held in by a zip tie. will this affect performance? I do see the end of a screw and i can pull the plug out a little with ease?? maybe this is my problem any advice?
do you have a fuel pressure test gauge? if not go to Harbor frieght there like 18 bucks and go a test on the fuel system. if pressure doesnt stay at 35-40 for at least 5 mins ur injectors are leaking.
also, did u change the CPS? the person that installed it b4 you may have put it on wrong. i just read a thread where a guy put one on and it made his jeep run ****ter. Then he realized he placed it to...low. IIRC so check that out.
good luck man. i had the same problem but it went away after i did a fuel pressure test. now i just have to figure out how to get my gas mileage back
I found a metal plug that goes in the top of the bellhousing on the trans is loose i asked my gf about it and found out the bolt or screw that holds it in place is broke off. It was held in by a zip tie. will this affect performance? I do see the end of a screw and i can pull the plug out a little with ease?? maybe this is my problem any advice?
I think you've found your problem. If it's at the about the one o'clock position facing the vehicle and has a wire harness, that is the CPS. It reads the teeth on the flywheel for timing. It will need to be bolted in and the correct spacing. The new ones come with a felt pad that presses against the flywheel, then the flywheel knocks it off. If you push the existing one in too far, it will ruin it.
sounds to me like u have a vaccum leak do you hear a loud sucking noise from anywhere?? if not take some carb clean and spray all around the throttle body and any vacuum lines u see and while u have the dime underneath whatever it was u had it under if it dies when u spray it near a line theres your problem
I did check for vac leaks and found none. I do have a new tps and iac and a different throttle body. I just have to see how i can get to the cps and take out the screw. Plus im assuming the cps is already shot since its not secure and it moves freely also with the way it runs now. The cps was installed but not by me and this is when the screw bolt was snapped i was told. Well i have to see if i can get the screw out i found out its pretty tight in that area and again thanks to all zeejay you been a big help too ill post when i change the cps and see if that was my nightmare.
i have to see if i can get the screw out i found out its pretty tight in that area
Ya, I do not envy you. I think you MAY have to loosen motor mounts and drop cross member to get in there to get it. I'm not saying you have to, you might can get the right tool in there to get it out. Let us know how you get it out, cuz someone else will probably have the same problem somewhere down the line.
try getting a fuel pressure guage and hook it up right in the middle of the fuel rail and then start it and see what u get for pressure. if its steady then i wold almost put my money on either a bad injector or a bad vaccum valve at the end of the fuel rail also while ur there check the little elbow at the end of the fuel rail. also i just ran into a problem with my gc yesterday me and my girl went on a beach trip to gloucester and when we got back we stopped at a subway and went back out to start and it wouldnt start and i found the distributo cap loose so id check that too if you havent repaced it already
Well now i have no spark again and no fuel pressure? I did change the cps. I also found the rotor i bought was twisted and broke which melted the inside of the cap a little. I did put the old cap and rotor on and nothing? Any ideas anyone?
To test for spark, use the High Tension lead coming off the coil. That eliminates the distributor. If you have spark from the HT lead off the coil, everything up there works, and you should look more closely at the distributor, wires, etc. No spark from the coil means look at... everything else! Crank pos sensor, Cam pos. sensor, coil, wiring, PCM, alarm, Auto Shutdown Relay and wiring, ignition switch... who knows??
For fuel, make sure the alarm is indeed shutting off. It will kill fuel - but not spark. ALso, I think if there's no spark/ignition reference signal, the fuel pump is shut off to prevent flooding the engine.
So, I bet you only have one problem, spark related. Good luck!
I put the old cps back in and it fired right up. Now it holds an idle a bit better i dont know why,but its running rough i still have to finish my exhuast though. Will an exhuast leak cause it to run rough? It will not rev right and just backfires alot. Im assuming my main problem is the cps and had to order a new one since a junkyard one was a failure.Im also guessing with a half bad cps and the exhuast not together i should be good to go after this is finished???
Exhuast is done and i still can not get the rpms up? Its popping out the carb any ideas? I also checked the test port on the fuel rail with the key on and nothing came out then i tried it with it running and i kinda gushed out not a high pressure spray