My 94 Grand Cherokee v6 has recently developed an interesting new problem - it will stall out as I'm driving merrily down the road - and I mean dead - and it won't restart. The ignition will turn over but the engine just won't catch. Then out of the blue it will catch and off I go again. I've also stalled out while sitting at a stop-light.... It seems to help to let it sit for a while, but I'm not certain that that's the case. Anyone have any experience with this kind of problem?
replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor. at the dealer it was like 200 bucks, installed, but you should be able to get it at your local auto parts store for no more than 80. its located where the bellhousing mounts to the engine, on the top, drivers side. it looks like a wire is going to a trans bolt.
Dan, San Bernardino, California
'86 XJ, 2.8 V6 5 spd, 3" lift
"It may be a piece of sh**, but its MY piece of sh**!" -Me
I agree with Jeepcherokeev6, the same thing happened with my 94 Grand Cherokee, it would just suddenly die, but would start up again after a few minutes. It turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor, got a new one at NAPA.
Originally posted by Big Dumb White Guy i know it sounds stupid but, change out your fuel filter. plus it can't hurt. it's only like $5. i had a similar problem. changed the filter and, so far, haven't had a problem.......
I agree with both BDWG and JCV6...it's probably your CPS, but it won't hurt to swap the filter first just to make sure it's not something easy.
The CPS is not terribly easy to install, but you can do it yourself and save some labor. Pick up a Factory Service Manual off of e-bay if you don't have one, or the dealer. If you're going to be a DIY-er, it'll be worth it's weight in gold. You can save the amount of the book on ONE less trip to the dealer. It's about 1.5 hours of labor at the shop...money well spent!
[url=http://www.kevinsoffroad.com][color=blue][b]Dr. K.W. Fell
PhD. in Jeepology, School of Hard Rocks[/b][/color]
Hey folks, I am the owner of a 95 Grand Cherokee (v8) and the problem described by MDDRIVER is the very reason I joined this forum. The strange thing about my problem is that mine only stalls when I run the AC. I could be driving along and as soon as I slow down for a stop light or a turn, the rpm would creep down to 0 and the Jeep would stall. If I am at a stop light I have to crank up in neutral always revving the engine until I get home. If I can pull over and wait awhile, it will crank up in park and go for a few miles before stalling again. To coincide with the problem, there is a rank oder coming from the AC vent and it seems to take longer to cool. Is it possible that a faulty compressor could cause a stalling problem? I changed the fuel filter, the plugs, the rotor and all the hoses under the hood and I still have the problem. Can anyone help me out?
More Info: The AC belt is not too tight. Also I notice that whenever I turn the AC on there is a noise that goes "pop". The "pop" only happens once a day and the unit definitly takes a long time to cool. I was tolds that there is supposed to be a setting that makes the engine rpm go up when the AC is activated. Is that true? There is no difference in rpm when I turn it on.
dee, if the rank odor coming from your ac vent has an ammonia smell, then your evaporator has sprung a leak. This has been a common problem with mid 90's Chrysler products, so bad that they extended the warranty to 7years/70000 miles on the evaporators. Mine failed at 80,000 miles, go figure. Cost me $800 to have it replaced and the system filled.
HERE IT IS GUYS _ HOW TO SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM - PART 1
pre-1996 Jeep Grand Cherokees ECU's are mounted on the firewall inside the engine compartment. The heat from the radiator & un-shielded tube-style exhaust headers bakes the crap outa them. That being said - don't rush to replace it - yet. Check you trouble codes to see what you get ( on-off-on-off-on ) will invoke the onboard diagnostics - read the flashes - disregard 12 & 55. Likely causes for your problem - bellhousing mounted crank trigger switch, distributer mounted inition pickup, defective ignition coil, dead fuel pump, dead fuel regulator. FOr the latter - only way to tell is to put a fuel pressure guage on the fuel rail - should be about 40lbs. Beware - you can have a good pump & bad regulator that just dumps all the good flow back to the tank - short circuiting the fuel rail. Bang on the gas tank with a mallet & watch pressure guage if you have no pressure. Also swap the relays around in the fuse box - could have a dead fuel pump relay - swapping it with a non-essential system will save a few bucks ( dont want to buy a relay if you dont have too). Autoparts stores sell fuel presure guages now for about 40 bucks by the way.
HERE IT IS GUYS _ HOW TO SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM - PART 2
If it is not a fuel pump/system problem. Check the spark. You can replace the coil & distributer ignition pickup. You can replace the drivers side bellhousing mounted crank position sensor. This sensor is longer than the clearance between the bellhousing & the tunnel - therefore save yourself some convincing & put a floor jack under the x-member & drop the trans/engine assy - to get at it. Lastely, bang on the computer when it dies again. According to a computer rebuilder I spoke to there is a Chrysler Tech bulletin that describes that the computer surface mount technology is some sort of adhesive based solder process where underhood heat disolves the solder. Banging on the box hopefully will restore the connection at least intermittantly. If this is the case - replace the computer for sure. If you are unsure - send it to SIA Electronics, Inc. 730 N. Minnie St. Tilden, IL 62292 Phone: (800) 737-0915 Phone: (618) 587-3308 Fax: (618) 587-6408 email@example.com. ... www.siaelec.com/quote.html These guys can test it for $25.00 - if it bad the plow the disgnostic fee into the computer - chrysler computers are $189.00 w/ two year warranty. Chrysler dealers are selling them for $180. by the way ..
Ended up taking it to the local Jeep dealer who determined it was a bad crank sensor.
When I got it back the engine shut-off problem was gone, but I then had a terrible problem with the engine lurching, sputtering, hesitating when it got up towards 1700~2000 rpms, accellerating so SLOOOOWLY until it would kick into the next gear, upon which it was fine - until it got up towards 1700 rpms again (merging onto highways was not fun - had to pull onto the shoulder a couple of times 'til I got up to speed). Once I was in 4th gear, it wouldn't happen. Also stopped happening once the car had warmed up a while - first thing in the a.m. was the worst!
Back to the dealer, who ended up replacing wiring to the PCM - problem gone.
MDDRIVER when you mentioned that they replaced the wireing on the sensor do you mean the wires might have been the problem all along, or that they wired it incorrectly when they replaced it. I'm about to try to change out mine and if I should get new wires also I would like to know. (anyone can reply)