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Unread 07-12-2014, 11:39 PM   #1
ninjastar
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93 zj 5.2 front end upgrades

Is it worth upgrade the front dana 30 on a 93 zj 5.2 or is a swap better? Looking to get the following this year and then the swap to 8.8 next year along with long arms.

Heavy Duty Dana 30 Front Axle shaft Assembly
Dana 30 Inner Axle Sleeve Kit
Dana 30 Over Axle Truss
Double Steering Stabilizer Kit
Heavy Duty Over the Knuckle Steering

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Unread 07-13-2014, 04:15 AM   #2
Timo_90xj
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Depends where do you wheel at, how large tires, what is your driving style.

You can break a D30 fairly easily, especially the R&P is weak. I suggest running stock U-joint shafts, it's better to break a shaft or joint than your R&P. If you're running 33s and have a fairly heavy foot, forget about a D30. Build a HP D44.

Double steering stabilizer is waste of money. A properly functioning steering system does not need a steering stabilizer at all, but if you want one, use one. Dual steering stabilizer systems are for bling-bling showtrucks.


If you want to build a "bulletproof" D30 (as good as it can get), you use a non- disconnect HP D30 out of an XJ, truss it, inner C gussets, lock it, buy WJ steering & knuckles & brakes. RCV shafts, but that will end up in R&P carnage over breaking a stock shaft or joint.
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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 07-13-2014, 04:46 AM   #3
Technohead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninjastar View Post
Is it worth upgrade the front dana 30 on a 93 zj 5.2 or is a swap better? Looking to get the following this year and then the swap to 8.8 next year along with long arms.

Heavy Duty Dana 30 Front Axle shaft Assembly
Dana 30 Inner Axle Sleeve Kit
Dana 30 Over Axle Truss
Double Steering Stabilizer Kit
Heavy Duty Over the Knuckle Steering
By far the single most important upgrade is alloy axle shafts. I have no idea what a "heavy duty" axle shaft is. Probably just the stock shafts.

Don't waste time & money on sleeve or truss unless you are some sort of desert racer. But in that case you have a lot more to worry about.

Double steering stabilizer. No.

Steering. Maybe. Having bent and broken just about every steering system available I've concluded that the optimum solution is the stock v8 steering and carry a spare.
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Unread 07-13-2014, 05:16 AM   #4
Timo_90xj
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Having broken a few R&Ps on D30s, I can guarantee cromo shafts are not the key to strength on them. I used to think it was, but no. If you have strong shafts, you break more expensive and harder-to-fix stuff. I prefer breaking stock shafts than replacing R&P, broken carrier/ locker case, or replacing the whole axle due to carrier bearing cap failure. New shafts = a hundred dollars & 30 minute job. New R&P = 400-500 if you do the work yourself, and a full day of work.

Housing flex and gear deflection is a known and serious issue on the D30, and one of the primary reasons for R&P failure (together with tha small size of R&P). Truss and a heavy duty diff cover help in reducing that quite a bit. Does not eliminate it, but reduces it. High speed desert racing requires a truss to keep the axle tubes from bending, slow speed crawling needs a truss and HD diff cover to reduce housing flex.
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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 07-13-2014, 06:16 AM   #5
Technohead
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We can agree to disagree. I got tired of replacing stock shafts 6, 8, 10 times per season. Occasionally, the stock shafts will press out the ball joints when they break which really sucks. I now run alloys. Problem solved. Took 2 1/2 seasons before breaking one of the alloys at the splines.

In the five years or so I've been running alloys I've broken one ring and pinion and that was really operator error for riding the brake too hard trying to keep the front axle Tru-Trac locked up. I solved that problem with an e-locker.

I don't have a truss. I don't have sleeves. I run 33's with V8 power and lockers and drive it hard.

The best advice I have for the D30 is slide in some alloys, bolt on a Solid cover, and drive it like you stole it. The next most important upgrade I would recommend is Synergy Suspension ball joints. Everything else is fluff.
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Unread 07-13-2014, 06:33 AM   #6
Timo_90xj
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It's definitely true you will break stock shafts (especially CV shafts) on 33s and a V8. I broke four CVs within one summer doing mild-to-medium wheeling. Upgraded to cromo shafts, and it took me no more than a few summer wheeling trips and the Eaton eLocker and R&P was gone along with the carrier bearing caps I've seen that same thing happen on a lot of D30s. Once you get cromos, expensive stuff starts to break. As long as you're lucky and the broken stock shafts won't pull out the balljoint, IMO it's not a big deal replacing shafts as a trail fix

Dunno if I've been unlucky with my lockers and R&P sets, but I've so far broken two locker cases, teared up one D30 housing and broken two R&P sets. One locker was on an XJ with 4.88s and 35s, rest on my niner turning 32s. I don't even do very heavy wheeling with the niner, I want to keep it looking good. Not doable in these woods if you wheel hard, too many trees and too much mud everywhere

As far as the truss goes, if you've got the money and a welder and do medium to hard wheeling, I'd get or fab one. If not, then no. Then again, if I was to build a ZJ with a V8 and I knew I was gonna do hard wheeling, I would not invest one cent on a turdy. It'd be a HP D44 + F8.8, or full width one tons straight away


I did beat the crap out of my XJ on 35s with a non-trussed, non-sleeved HP D30 with a locker, and an F8.8 in the rear. Other than the ARB case and R&P breaking, it performed flawlessly for the three years I used it. A HP D30 is not a bad axle, but you certainly need to know its limits if running larger tires especially on a V8 ZJ. ..and you will still break stuff no matter what..
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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 07-15-2014, 04:25 AM   #7
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Most wheelers, not web wheelers are fine with the Dana 30 and 33s on a zj. CV shafts don't break that often. KOR's xj ran 37s for awhile without breaking. I ran 35s with a limited slip up front with 4.56s for gears and didn't break.

However, I did busy the pinion bearings while wheeling over some ledges with 33s. Too much "bump and hop" technique.

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Unread 07-16-2014, 11:25 PM   #8
ninjastar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
Most wheelers, not web wheelers are fine with the Dana 30 and 33s on a zj. CV shafts don't break that often. KOR's xj ran 37s for awhile without breaking. I ran 35s with a limited slip up front with 4.56s for gears and didn't break.

However, I did busy the pinion bearings while wheeling over some ledges with 33s. Too much "bump and hop" technique.

Hunter
I see that is very true, when I started I was just told keep crawling till it breaks. But I still down know which route would be the best bang for my buck.
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Unread 07-17-2014, 03:04 AM   #9
Timo_90xj
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This is the actual size difference between stock CV shafts and U- joint shafts. I've so far broken four CV shafts, turning 32s on light to medium trails. U- joint shafts in the picture are cromo ones, but stock U- joint shafts are same thickness, just weaker material.






Almost 1/4" difference in diameter between the shafts, which calculates to over 50% reduction in torque handling capacity between the CV and U- joint shafts. After installing Cromo u-joint shafts, my R&P nor the locker liked it; instead of breaking a shaft or axle joint (CV or U-joint), I destroyed my locker and R&P - on a HP D30, not the stock LP D30.

You make your call on what is strong enough for you and what is not. My R&P/ locker case carnage happened at steady 1/3 throttle (~1500-1600RPMs) on 4lo, 1st gear, front locker engaged trying to climb the ledge.. Without a locker the R&P may survive, or not. I rather destroy shafts or joints than R&P or locker case
A lot of trails - even hard ones - can be run with a D30 up front, but chances are at some point you will destroy stuff with V8 power and the heavyish nose of the ZJ. D44 uses same u-joints and slightly thicker axle shafts, but the R&P is quite a bit stronger. IMO, a front D44 should've been installed as stock on at least V8 ZJs..
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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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