Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland - on the European side of the Atlantic
Depends where do you wheel at, how large tires, what is your driving style.
You can break a D30 fairly easily, especially the R&P is weak. I suggest running stock U-joint shafts, it's better to break a shaft or joint than your R&P. If you're running 33s and have a fairly heavy foot, forget about a D30. Build a HP D44.
Double steering stabilizer is waste of money. A properly functioning steering system does not need a steering stabilizer at all, but if you want one, use one. Dual steering stabilizer systems are for bling-bling showtrucks.
If you want to build a "bulletproof" D30 (as good as it can get), you use a non- disconnect HP D30 out of an XJ, truss it, inner C gussets, lock it, buy WJ steering & knuckles & brakes. RCV shafts, but that will end up in R&P carnage over breaking a stock shaft or joint.
1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...
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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***