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Unread 12-15-2005, 06:55 AM   #1
ashy22
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60,000 mile service?

Hi Guys

I am about to do a 60,000 mile service on my 1999 4.7 GC Ltd.

Do you guys think that replacing the spark plug wires is a bit over the top as this is listed in the maintanance schedule?

When replacing the front & rear diff fluids, is a new gasket required for the covers?

Any tips?

Cheers
Paul

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Unread 12-15-2005, 07:09 AM   #2
ksgrands
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I don't replace items like that, these are guidelines to help keep your ride in tip-top shape, get the best gas-mileage, etc. I'm not loaded, so I use my own judjment on these things.

Silicone is an acceptable gasket for diffs. Although I prefer gaskets. The old ones are not re-usable if thats what your're asking.
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Unread 12-15-2005, 07:11 AM   #3
mr_user
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashy22
Hi Guys

I am about to do a 60,000 mile service on my 1999 4.7 GC Ltd.

Do you guys think that replacing the spark plug wires is a bit over the top as this is listed in the maintanance schedule?

When replacing the front & rear diff fluids, is a new gasket required for the covers?

Any tips?

Cheers
Paul
Plugs and all that good stuff is an easy saturday job in your own garage. Get an igntion tune up kit at the auto store with a wobble socket and wobble extensions as well as a socket with the rubber inside for the spark plugs.

Diff fluids are very easy as well, stealer wants around 300 i think unless covered by warranty. Do it yourself, and yes coat the housing cover with some RTV, you do not need a special gasket.


Matt
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Unread 12-15-2005, 07:24 AM   #4
rrubio
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I recommend if you havent switch to synthetics.Iv'e always used RTV called the Right stuff a bit pricey but works great and you don't have to wait till it dries to put the cover back on.

Last edited by rrubio; 12-15-2005 at 08:00 AM..
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Unread 12-15-2005, 07:58 AM   #5
mr_fsu_guy
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Pardon me asking but where could I get some soild step by step instructions on how to do this myself, and what to look for and what to unscrew and put in, and put back together. Basically someone hold my hand I've never done anything like this.
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Unread 12-15-2005, 08:01 AM   #6
rrubio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_fsu_guy
Pardon me asking but where could I get some soild step by step instructions on how to do this myself, and what to look for and what to unscrew and put in, and put back together. Basically someone hold my hand I've never done anything like this.
Your joking correct.
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Unread 12-15-2005, 08:16 AM   #7
mr_fsu_guy
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I said I've never changed that - I don't know what to do... if its as easy as unbolting the case, out with the old in with the new, and rebolt - thats all you had to say.
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Unread 12-15-2005, 08:21 AM   #8
rrubio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_fsu_guy
I said I've never changed that - I don't know what to do... if its as easy as unbolting the case, out with the old in with the new, and rebolt - thats all you had to say.
Just giving you a hard time that it is all.But I honestly thought you were joking.Very easy procedure.Unloosen the bolts and let it drain then take the bolts completly off and scrape off the residue from the previous gasket.Get a few cans of brake cleaner and spray the heck out of the carrier.Clean off the diff cover and make sure the magnet is clean and put back together using RTV, personally use The Right Stuff gasket sealer.Since your there go to Synthetics a bit more but worth it in my opinion.
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Unread 12-15-2005, 09:02 AM   #9
ashy22
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When you say synthetics... I take it you mean an alternative to the fluid that the main dealer will give to me when I pick up the fluids & parts required.
Can you suggest a better alternative than the stock fluid?
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Unread 12-15-2005, 09:29 AM   #10
mr_fsu_guy
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When he means synthethic he means this

I know check the manual - I just ran out to get it... only this just confused me...
It tells me to use 80w90, and if I trailer to use 75w140 in the rear and with Qdrive use 75w140 & a friction modifier additive. What is best - i thought 80w90 is for like buses and stuff. What do I use for a regular DD - no towing?


I've only ever used mobil1 products and they only make 3 weights 75w-140, and 75w-90, and a 80w-90 which is for heavy duty applications. I assume the 75w-140 is what most people would use in front and rear?
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Last edited by mr_fsu_guy; 12-15-2005 at 09:42 AM..
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Unread 12-15-2005, 09:40 AM   #11
Myrtle Beach
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Just so you know--- The 4.7 doesn't have spark plug wires. It uses a coil over the plug system. It is a pretty easy job to change all the plugs, it just takes some time. Try www.wjjeeps.com for some help. the only other thing you need to do is start driving your jeep more. Only 60K on a '99 is nothing
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Unread 12-15-2005, 09:41 AM   #12
rrubio
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I personally use Amsoil.
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Unread 12-15-2005, 06:01 PM   #13
gkbid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_fsu_guy
I've only ever used mobil1 products and they only make 3 weights 75w-140, and 75w-90, and a 80w-90 which is for heavy duty applications. I assume the 75w-140 is what most people would use in front and rear?
I was also planning to upgrade to a synthetic on my GC, it has the Vari-Lok differentials, do I still need to add a fricton modifier with a synthetic? If yes, is there an option to the dealer brand at $18/bottle?

Thanks..
Gary
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Unread 12-15-2005, 06:06 PM   #14
rrubio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gkbid
I was also planning to upgrade to a synthetic on my GC, it has the Vari-Lok differentials, do I still need to add a fricton modifier with a synthetic? If yes, is there an option to the dealer brand at $18/bottle?

Thanks..
Gary
Im not sure but im pretty sure some synthetics you can get that bottle also.I don 't have vari-loc so the normal synthetic Amsoil worked for me.
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Unread 12-15-2005, 06:46 PM   #15
Wheelin98TJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gkbid
I was also planning to upgrade to a synthetic on my GC, it has the Vari-Lok differentials, do I still need to add a fricton modifier with a synthetic? If yes, is there an option to the dealer brand at $18/bottle?

Thanks..
Gary
$18 per bottle?!? Are you kidding??

Last bottle I bought from the dealer was $6 and some change.
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