If you've got stock diameter tires, maybe just do a 2" lift - be it a budget boost or some new springs. Finish it off with some nice shocks such as the Bilstein 5100 series. That will keep you within budget.
PM me if you'd like to chat - I have Bilsteins on special right now.
Originally Posted by pageman
so far i went factory size just to keep things simple.the trans is all sealed as well as t case. i have a massive trans cooler from a way bigger diesel truck so temps are always cool. i also just finished the durango air hat mod
thanks for the advice guys but today i when and did some SERIOUS wheeling. i mean crazy obstacles,hills, axle flex ruts with the gulf coast jeepers and i have found massive weaknesses
so far water not much of an issue so snorkel can wait. my buddy whit a 2 inch bb got stuck in things that i made it in factory so i am out performing what the jeep can do. what i noticed on uphill climb is that i would very often frame out on the t case bracket and that on extreme flex and hill climbs the lack of lockers showed(once both axels flexed one wheel hit there air and i was going no where). my main issue is the constant frame out so i think a lift will give me the flex and body clearence i need but i just bought tires so how usefull will a lift be whith factory size but super tires be. with lockers i believe i can circumnavigate the clearance whith some good spotting as long as i keep the truck moving if i can keep the t case higher im set because i hit rocks and obstacles with tires and they clear just fine its on brims of hills i have issues and once im lifting a wheel or 2 it goes no where whith factory diffs
f you've got stock diameter tires, maybe just do a 2" lift - be it a budget boost or some new springs. Finish it off with some nice shocks such as the Bilstein 5100 series
mr.kolak i belive you will be a huge help here( 99% of people here recomend you lol) i dont think a 2inch bb will suffice for what i am doing, i was use to a built land cruiser and have the skills for that but im just expecting to much of my rig right now. i need the rig to catch up to me. and if i have to save a few more weeks im ok whith that cause i want a rig built right that can meet my realistic expectations
The next lift height increment is 3.5". At that height, you need more than just springs and shocks. You'll need longer links for the swaybars, an adjustable front trackbar, etc. That's going to put you over your $500.00 budget, so I'd suggest saving some more money and doing it properly the first time.
Im whith you on that. Has to be built right the first time.how much would i look at in parts alone since i can do all the work my self.
Also you think maby a spartan or assey locker should be befor the lift or wise versa? I would think a lower rig thats locked will make it farther than a lifted rig running open it just takes a very good spoter
2" BB 31s rear locker.
if you have a 95 ZJ your 249 transfer case is also useless and is likely why you got hung up. it does not lock up 50/50 (stays kind of open) and can make it feel weird. if you really want to use that thing swap out the AWD for a 242 or 231.
i'd like to see how you vented your transmission too. the vent hole is in the tranny casing directly behind the torque converter. you cannot access it without pulling the motor/and/or tranny out of the jeep.
why would i ever do that? this is a 60% trail 40% road jeep so i do need it to actualy have some road manners lol.it stays parked most of the week unless i get tired of riding the cbr1000 or its starts raining cats and dogs.my mud tires will wear fast enough i dont want it worse
i just ran the vents up high when i replaced the vc since my t case was out and tranny right there.since i just did the vc im not doing a t case swap for a while. my budget has now increased to about a grand. iv been doing some reading and shopping and i concluded 4.5 is the highest i can go whith still keeping things simple, and whith 4.5 i can run 33's which is the biggest i would go since this is a expedition rig i cant have crazy high becuase it wont be nimble and way to top heavy during steep grades and climbs.from what i shopped a iro kit is about 700$ and i figure whith 1000 i can get the best adjustable components and bilstine shocks.i want this lift to never give any problems cause i skimped out on 100 dollars and to be direct bolt on no cutting and welding if possible. and after the lift i figure a aussy rear lunch box and this will be perfect untill years down the road i can buy the land cruiser i always wanted.
my.kolac i will send you a pm to see if you can tell me what im looking price wise to get things together
I Plugged in a vent tube on top of the transmission. It had a nipple for the, what I thought was the breather tube. I dont know what else it would be? We just had the trans lowered a bit and got to it fine. I dunno mang
I just ordered the 4.5 in premium lift with fully adjustable CA'S and bilsteins from him today. Kolak seems pretty cool. He also saved me a decent chunk of change going through him. But yeah I'd plan on around 1500 for the lift + other things if you want it done right.