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Unread 12-07-2011, 07:09 PM   #31
phitmein
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KoreaZJ View Post
Heater core blockage? Blocked with what?
Scale,rust,junk etc.

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Unread 12-07-2011, 07:09 PM   #32
zachjf
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I came across a thread on a forum about a citric acid product Mercedes sells specifically for flushing/cleaning the cooling system so I'm gonna grab a bottle of that and see what i can get out of my cooling system.

Basically its the following;

"flush old cooling system with garden hose for 5 minutes to get all residue out

Remove thermostat

mix 1.1 lbs citric acid powder to 1.3 gallons of water and add to engine, adding water on top of that until cooling system is full

Run for 15 minutes at 2500 RPM

drain

flush with engine running at 2500 with hose running and attached with drains wide open

Seal everything up and refill with coolant/water"
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Unread 12-07-2011, 07:13 PM   #33
KoreaZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phitmein View Post
Be careful when removing the hoses because if you pull on them to hard you can break the heater core inlet or outlet pipe.

Unhook the other end of the hoses?
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Unread 12-07-2011, 07:16 PM   #34
Foundrydude
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Flush the heater core. My 5.2 with a 195 will practically blister your skin and it's the exact same coolant circulation system as a 5.2.

When you feel heat on both heater hoses that means the heater core is not totally clogged shut. But it doesn't tell you if the heater core is clogged 75% shut.

Hotter therm is not an answer to this problem. Don't waste your time. Flush or replace the core. Been thru the exact same thing with a handful of GM cars from the early dexcool years and had a big blob of silica pop out, followed by brand-new car heater performance.

If you want faster engine warm up, block off some of the radiator with cardboard. I like white because it's harder to forget about when spring rolls around.

Not a fan of flush chemicals as it's extremely hard to remove them 100% If a simple back n forth with a garden hose won't do it, then you need a new heater core.
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Unread 12-07-2011, 07:24 PM   #35
phitmein
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I did my Caddy yesterday and I just used a box of baking soda.
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Unread 12-07-2011, 07:32 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KoreaZJ View Post

Unhook the other end of the hoses?
I do it that way when I can but on some rides they can be hard to get to.

And the reason I said becareful with the hoses is because I broke a heater core that way one time.

Now-a-days if I am totally replaceing those hoses I cut them off with a razor knife.
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Unread 12-07-2011, 07:34 PM   #37
edpmedic
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Does your theromostat have the purge hole in it?
Have you done a reverse flush on the system?
In the first thread you said both heater hoses are getting equally hot. That you can't hold onto them for to long. So I would think you have good circulation. Still I would reverse flush and really make sure the blend door is working.
How about on defrost is it colder then what comes out the vents and is the floor vent the warmest air flow?
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Unread 12-07-2011, 07:36 PM   #38
Foundrydude
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There's a tool called a cotter pin extractor that's kind of a screwdriver with a bent end, pointed but blunt. Best tool ever for loosening stuck hoses without damage.
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Unread 12-07-2011, 07:45 PM   #39
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Foundry, I have a pig tail screwdriver that I use for that. I wonder if that isn't the same tool that you are talking about?

The end is twisted around like a pigs tail and comes to a point like an ice pick.
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Unread 12-07-2011, 07:54 PM   #40
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I finally got around to picking up the new 195 superstat/gasket I ordered as well as the new radiator cap. No air hole in the new thermostat or any of the other ones I looked at so I'm just gonna drill a tiny hole in it to mimic a jiggle valve. The radiator cap didnt make a bit of difference so hopefully a good flushing and the better quality thermostat will fix it. If not its on to step whatever and replace the water pump followed by some sort of blocker for the radiator. Getting down to the high 20's at nite now, still taking forever to warm up and cools down the second I start driving, literally to the point where I'll sit for 5-10min idling and it'll finally hit 210 but instantly drop the second I start moving and the heat drops off just as fast as the temperature gauge does.
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Unread 12-08-2011, 06:21 PM   #41
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Have you guys done this to check for codes?

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/a...ostics-106446/
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Unread 12-08-2011, 09:34 PM   #42
Mikedc3
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Heater core issue. The way it sits in the box lets gunk accumulate. Try flushing.
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Unread 12-08-2011, 11:14 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zachjf View Post
well, I'll give it a shot but the heater hoses get just as hot as the upper radiator hose, which isn't all that hot. TBH I'm thinkin about havin the radiator shop do an acid flush/refill on the whole system so I can at least cross that off the list as a possibility.
be very careful. i took my jeep in for a chemical flush...a few weeks later i started having lots of freeze plug leaks. had to get them all replaced; took two separate occasions
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Unread 12-09-2011, 11:47 PM   #44
edpmedic
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I agree about being careful me I would leave the stat out. Get a Preston flush kit and put the T in the heater hose line. Flush that sucker out real good then before I put the stat back
Check the circulation to see if the pump is working. If your not overheating I do not think it is restricted or pump related. I would also check compression and do a cylinder leak down test for the heck of it. If all is ok then install the stat and hope for the best. My other recommendation is replace the heater core. Or see if you can blow through it with your mouth or air pressure. That doesn't mean it is not clogged through the core , it could be a partial clog .
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