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Unread 11-20-2012, 03:31 PM   #16
Marcos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighLonesome View Post
My DC controls fan controller made that exact same noise, but the sound came from the fan motor. It is caused by pulsed DC, which controls the fan speed and is by design. Maybe the relay or the temp switch that engages the relay is bad. I would hook the fan directly to the battery and see how it acts.
The stock blower motor (with ATC) is controlled in the same manner, and is in the vicinity of the passenger kick panel. Could be that when the voltage drops, the blower motor becomes audible? Perhaps test this with the blower turned off and see if the noise still appears.

Still need to see if the cooling fan or the alternator are causing the voltage drop, though.

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Unread 11-20-2012, 05:27 PM   #17
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I spoke to Kolak about it and he thinks the motor is toast. He also thinks that since its drawing so much power its making relays screech. So he recommended that I buy a new fan motor. He says he's got the same part number but its for a ford application and he also sells a pigtail harness to adapt it to my 5.9 if i cut the plug off the old motor. I'm probably going to go that route as long as none of the blades on the fan are broken etc.
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Unread 11-20-2012, 05:58 PM   #18
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Hmm, whenever my electric fan comes on when im idle i always hear the RPM's of the engine changing slightly, and sometimes I get a incy wincy dimming of my lights for a split second... Im assuming its because the electric fan draws a considerable amount of Amps and the change in tone of my engine is the alternator working harder. My electrica fan motor is fairly new only about a year old.. The old one did the same thing

Other then this which im sure is normal i havent noticed anything odd.. I have no other 5.9 to compare to so i dunno. I get the same affect when I roll down or up my windows, and I heard from Rat monkey that this was normal because the window motors draw a lot of power
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Unread 11-20-2012, 08:42 PM   #19
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If its anything like the Taurus 2 speed fan then the amperage draw will be somewhere around this;

High speed start up current = 116A
High speed running current = 36A
Low speed start up current = 52A
Low speed running current = 12A

Have you checked to see if your low speed fan is even working? I know on mine when the low speed side stopped my temps would get up over 210 a bit then the high speed would kick in which causes more draw and would be more noticeable through the lights, especially when it jumps to the high speed only w/116amps start up current instead of switching from low to high
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Unread 11-20-2012, 10:59 PM   #20
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To me it seems like only your high speed is coming on. Unplug the upper rad hose sensor and jump the harness. Your fan shouldn't vibrate on high speed, if it does you might have bent fan blades or the bearing in the fan motor is toast.
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Unread 11-20-2012, 11:05 PM   #21
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Those numbers can't be even close to being right.


Quote:
Originally Posted by zachjf View Post
If its anything like the Taurus 2 speed fan then the amperage draw will be somewhere around this;

High speed start up current = 116A
High speed running current = 36A
Low speed start up current = 52A
Low speed running current = 12A

Have you checked to see if your low speed fan is even working? I know on mine when the low speed side stopped my temps would get up over 210 a bit then the high speed would kick in which causes more draw and would be more noticeable through the lights, especially when it jumps to the high speed only w/116amps start up current instead of switching from low to high
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Unread 11-21-2012, 02:54 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeanGreenZJ View Post
Those numbers can't be even close to being right.
Those are jaguarjoes numbers from the Taurus fan he tested over in the efan thread;

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/t...l#post12149513
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Unread 11-21-2012, 07:01 AM   #23
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The reason I said this is because Ford uses a 50 amp fuse for the fan on the 90's Taurus.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zachjf View Post
Those are jaguarjoes numbers from the Taurus fan he tested over in the efan thread;

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/t...l#post12149513
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Unread 11-21-2012, 08:35 AM   #24
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Well... I ordered a 150 amp alternator and replacement fan motor from Kolak last night. He's the only one that is able to get the mopar 150 amp alternators according to him. None of the parts stores stock them. Hopefully I can return the 136 amp I bought... somehow I doubt it. It'll go on craigslist i'm sure. bah.

I looked at my fan blades last night and there's no cracks or chunks missing so i'm guessing the bearings are toast in the motor. Once I get it all apart and swap everything I'll update the thread with what I found.

If by some chance the upper temp sensor isn't working... Is that even available anymore? I thought I read somewhere that it's not.
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Unread 11-21-2012, 09:31 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zew View Post
Well... I ordered a 150 amp alternator and replacement fan motor from Kolak last night. He's the only one that is able to get the mopar 150 amp alternators according to him. None of the parts stores stock them. Hopefully I can return the 136 amp I bought... somehow I doubt it. It'll go on craigslist i'm sure. bah.

I looked at my fan blades last night and there's no cracks or chunks missing so i'm guessing the bearings are toast in the motor. Once I get it all apart and swap everything I'll update the thread with what I found.

If by some chance the upper temp sensor isn't working... Is that even available anymore? I thought I read somewhere that it's not.
I returned my 136 amp I got from Oreilly's. You could have found a shop that rebuilds alternators. Would have probably been cheaper. I paid 100 bucks with core charge for a freshly rebuilt 150.
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Unread 11-21-2012, 12:53 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
I returned my 136 amp I got from Oreilly's. You could have found a shop that rebuilds alternators. Would have probably been cheaper. I paid 100 bucks with core charge for a freshly rebuilt 150.
The mopar 150 amp was 107 from Kolak with a 50 core charge. I'm not too far off from what you paid. I couldn't wait to have it rebuilt because it's my daily driver and my TJ still needs to have the engine sitting on the stand installed into it... I can't have any downtime.
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Unread 11-21-2012, 01:53 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeanGreenZJ View Post
The reason I said this is because Ford uses a 50 amp fuse for the fan on the 90's Taurus.
When I swapped the Taurus fan into my TJ I used a 75a inline fuse to power both relays and never had an issue. The duration of the amp draw spike is so short that it doesn't have time to pop the fuse and then almost instantly drops to the 33a it takes for normal operation.
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Unread 11-21-2012, 07:53 PM   #28
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Automotive fuses are fast-blow fuses.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zachjf View Post
When I swapped the Taurus fan into my TJ I used a 75a inline fuse to power both relays and never had an issue. The duration of the amp draw spike is so short that it doesn't have time to pop the fuse and then almost instantly drops to the 33a it takes for normal operation.
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Unread 11-22-2012, 12:21 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by MeanGreenZJ View Post
Automotive fuses are fast-blow fuses.
My TJ ran with it for over a year on the 75a fuse I originally put in it so apparently not fast enough to catch the amp spike.
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Unread 11-22-2012, 07:23 AM   #30
MeanGreenZJ
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If the fan runs in a Taurus with a 50 amp fuse, it's safe to say that it will keep running with anything higher, like a 75 amp fuse.
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