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Unread 06-29-2012, 09:38 PM   #16
edpmedic
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Sorry I should have subscribed and crawled this thread. I would have said it isn't easy pulling the engine and Trans with a transfer case has one unit. I do suggest you be careful with the radiator. Now I thought you were rrbuilding it for a performance upgrade. Did you locate what cylinder was knocking. Or if it was a rod, or wrist pin, crank bearing before you took it apart.. Did you preform at least a compression test wet and dry, have vacuum readings or oil pressure reading?

To tear into a engine before at least determining a location of the knock or the condition of the engine is not a good way to go about this. If it was a very noticeable knock then maybe you will be lucky and see excessive wear or damage. At this point pull the heads. Check the ridge at each cylinder bore and look at the cylinders, before you pull the main or rod bearings. Has you rotate the crank you might feel a problem and determine what it can be. Them check crank end play before you loosen anything.
Put
Then I remove the ridge from the cylinders. After that I would plastigage each rod bearing and then main bearings.Write info down and check each one has I take it apart. Is there play to the connecting rod while attached to the crank? That could be your rod knock. I usually do the connecting rods first. At the same time pull them With the piston out of the cylinder. I then see if the crank turns free without the pistons attached. Check end play on the crank again. Then I plastigage the main bearings and check them. I also look at the pistons and rings for wear on the skirt and the condition of the rings.

From what I have read you already pulled the caps and are looking at the bearings. You see copper showing. Are we talking about the rod or main bearings? Is the wear in the center, sides, or half the bearing. Are there any lines or grooves in the bearings. By the way you have taken the oil pump off. You sure it was not a valve or lifter problem, but that would be tapping and not a knock.

Hope this helps and just take it slow write down measurements and if you need take pictures before you take it apart. Mark stuff that goes together and work clean. Of all things Safety first

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Unread 06-29-2012, 09:44 PM   #17
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Main bearings
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Unread 06-29-2012, 11:05 PM   #18
edpmedic
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Main bearings.are crankshaft bearings
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Unread 06-30-2012, 11:10 AM   #19
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I will try to check the clearances in the bearings soon.

Last edited by bmlarson12; 06-30-2012 at 11:21 AM..
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Unread 07-06-2012, 10:47 PM   #20
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It looks like it was probably a rod bearing or a carbon knock. I plan to do some little upgrades over time, but for now I want to get a good camshaft that will work now, and in the future with other upgrades. I am looking at two different ones. One is a good bit bigger, and will work well at low end, along with the higher end (HER0814AL). The other one is the Hughes Engines towing cam (HER9204AL). I know that I would also have to adjust the engine computer some for the larger one to work, but it does have a better range of rpm.
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Unread 07-08-2012, 12:01 PM   #21
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I guess I am going with the HER0814AL because of the better rpm range it will work with.
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Unread 07-11-2012, 06:58 PM   #22
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Well, any pics yet? How's the progress going?


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Unread 07-15-2012, 08:36 PM   #23
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Well, any pics yet? How's the progress going?


Hunter
So almost everything is together. We finished with the engine yesterday and put it into the Jeep today.
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Unread 07-15-2012, 08:39 PM   #24
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Here are some pictures of the changes that I made.
07102012141.jpg   07102012138.jpg   06262012102.jpg  
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Unread 07-15-2012, 11:46 PM   #25
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Looking great.
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Unread 07-18-2012, 08:18 PM   #26
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Everything is finished up now and I was able to drive it back home. There were some timing problems that I couldn't fix so we had a mechanic fix that. He also reset all of the old computer information with the old camshaft so it will be able to relearn the new cam. After a day it did have a small new problem. I believe the oil pressure sensor is going out. it is dropping to zero at idle but at about 1000 rpm it goes straight back to normal. It never made any sound at idle to indicate a problem, so I assume it is alright. Do these sensors tend to have problems after a while? I have seen several people having similar problems and I think they were normally just sensor problems.
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Unread 07-18-2012, 08:31 PM   #27
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Silly question but I assume you replaced the factory oil pump with a new high volume unit? It would be hell for a new engine rebuild to internally destruct from lack of oil pressure from an old pump.
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Unread 07-19-2012, 07:34 PM   #28
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Silly question but I assume you replaced the factory oil pump with a new high volume unit? It would be hell for a new engine rebuild to internally destruct from lack of oil pressure from an old pump.
Yes I did use a new high volume oil pump.
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Unread 07-20-2012, 08:30 PM   #29
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What controls the oil light? I am just not sure if it is the same thing that controls the oil pressure gauge.
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Unread 07-21-2012, 10:37 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by mrclark25 View Post
i would cam it and if you have the money, find some headers to put on it.

higher performing heads would also be nice, but i don't know of any.
performance heads are sold by edlebrock, along with cam and whole top end rebuild.
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5.2l , engine rebuild , magnum , performance

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