5.2l Grand Cherokee Engine Rebuild - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 40 Old 06-27-2012, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
bmlarson12
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5.2l Grand Cherokee Engine Rebuild

I am currently rebuilding my Jeep's engine and would like to know if anybody has any advice on what can make it easier. Right now I am trying to get everything off of it to take the engine out, so I would like to have some advice with what could make that easier.

Later I would like to modify things in it a bit so I would like to know if there are any suggestions for ways to increase performance.

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post #2 of 40 Old 06-27-2012, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
bmlarson12
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I have a lot of stuff off, but I don't know what to do about the ac.
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post #3 of 40 Old 06-27-2012, 01:46 PM
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A turbo or supercharger will increase performance.
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post #4 of 40 Old 06-27-2012, 01:56 PM
edpmedic
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You could take the AC compressor off the brackets and leave it hooked up. Just move it out of the way has you remove the engine from the car. Same thing with the power steering pump. You remove it from the bracket through the holes in the front pulley. Three long bolts hold it in place from the front

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post #5 of 40 Old 06-27-2012, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
bmlarson12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edpmedic View Post
You could take the AC compressor off the brackets and leave it hooked up. Just move it out of the way has you remove the engine from the car. Same thing with the power steering pump. You remove it from the bracket through the holes in the front pulley. Three long bolts hold it in place from the front
thanks, I was thinking of that, but it is good to know for sure that could work.
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post #6 of 40 Old 06-27-2012, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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Do I need to take the exhaust manifolds off to pull it out or not? Which would be easier?
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post #7 of 40 Old 06-27-2012, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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I can't figure out how the transmission connects to the engine. It's at the top of the transmission, right?
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post #8 of 40 Old 06-27-2012, 06:20 PM
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Yes the exhaust has to come off. Use a towel on the fender to lay the a/c on so you dont scratch the hell out of the car. The engine comes slightly forward then out. Dont just pull on it. you may have to tip the motor to get the top bolts out. dont bend your dust cover. Its funny to watch people start there car and think they have ruined there engine. But Ive been there.
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post #9 of 40 Old 06-27-2012, 06:34 PM
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Sounds like you need a factory service manual.

Thankfully, I have never had to pull an engine from a ZJ but when removing engines I normally pull both the engine and transmission as a unit.

P.S. When you disassemble the engine you will almost certainly discover that the heads are cracked. I would recommend going with a remanufactured engine from a supplier such as Jasper. Much easier.
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post #10 of 40 Old 06-27-2012, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevinyj95 View Post
Yes the exhaust has to come off. Use a towel on the fender to lay the a/c on so you dont scratch the hell out of the car. The engine comes slightly forward then out. Dont just pull on it. you may have to tip the motor to get the top bolts out. dont bend your dust cover. Its funny to watch people start there car and think they have ruined there engine. But Ive been there.
Thanks, where and how do you think I should attach the engine block lift? and which one is the dust cover?

Last edited by bmlarson12; 06-27-2012 at 07:49 PM.
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post #11 of 40 Old 06-27-2012, 10:38 PM
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I found it much easier to use a cherry picker and a floor jack. Use the cherry picker to hook up to the engine and pull the motor mount bolts. Then, carefully, using the floor jack to assist, drop the engine back down through the mounts to gain faster and easier access to the top of the transmission, the distributor cap and other electronics.

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post #12 of 40 Old 06-27-2012, 11:13 PM
mrclark25
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i would cam it and if you have the money, find some headers to put on it.

higher performing heads would also be nice, but i don't know of any.

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post #13 of 40 Old 06-28-2012, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
bmlarson12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I found it much easier to use a cherry picker and a floor jack. Use the cherry picker to hook up to the engine and pull the motor mount bolts. Then, carefully, using the floor jack to assist, drop the engine back down through the mounts to gain faster and easier access to the top of the transmission, the distributor cap and other electronics.

Hunter
Ok, I will try that to get the transmission and engine block apart. I think I have all of the electronics out of the back now that the intake manifold is off.
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post #14 of 40 Old 06-29-2012, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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So the engine is out, how much wear on the bearings would indicate that it was a problem? Some of the rod bearings have some copper exposed. Would that be able to cause a knock?
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post #15 of 40 Old 06-29-2012, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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What all could cause a deep knocking sound in the engine?
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5.2l , engine rebuild , magnum , performance

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