5.2 ZJ Radiator Replacement Guide - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 15 Old 07-17-2011, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
Tiger_184
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5.2 ZJ Radiator Replacement Guide

I replaced my radiator yesterday and even though I know this is one of the easiest things you can replace I figured I'd go ahead and make a step-by-step guide for anyone who needs one.

Disclaimer: I am not a trained or licensed mechanic. In no way am I responsible for any damages, injuries, or costs incurred by following this guide. You should always consult with a trained and licensed auto mechanic prior to performing any work on your vehicle. This guide is intended for reference only and in referencing this guide you are assuming all risk and liability associated with doing so.

(1) Ensure that the vehicle as completely cooled prior to beginning work. The cooling system is a pressurized system. Opening the radiator cap, or the cooling system at any other point will cause the coolant to rapidly expand and "explode." This will result in serious burns. I cannot stress the importance of this step enough.

(2) Drain the radiator. After the vehicle has cooled, remove the radiator cap.

Attached Thumbnails
Radiator Cap.jpg  

Last edited by Tiger_184; 07-17-2011 at 12:58 PM. Reason: Type-o
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post #2 of 15 Old 07-17-2011, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
Tiger_184
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(2 cont') After removing the radiator cap, open the stopcock located at the bottom driver's side of the radiator. When opening the stopcock it is a good idea to have a bucket ready to catch the old coolant.
Attached Thumbnails
Stopcock.jpg  
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post #3 of 15 Old 07-17-2011, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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(3) After draining the coolant from the radiator, disconnect all hoses and cooling lines from the radiator. There are hoses located on the top driver's side and the bottom passengers side. Also, there is a small rubber line which connects to the filler neck on the radiator. Additionally, on the passengers side there are two steel lines that connect in the middle. These are for the oil cooler and transmission cooler. These also need to be disconnected. They may drip a little and should be plugged to prevent any contamination. When disconnecting the coolant hoses, be ready to catch the old coolant with a bucket. Although the radiator has already been drained there will be some residual coolant in the lines.
Attached Thumbnails
Top Coolant Line.jpg   Bottom Cooling Line.jpg   Radiator Connections.jpg  
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post #4 of 15 Old 07-17-2011, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
Tiger_184
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(4) Remove the plastic grill. After disconnecting the radiator lines you need to remove the plastic grill from the front of the Jeep. This can be done by removing four screws; two on top and two on the front.
Attached Thumbnails
Plastic Grill Screws.jpg   Plastic Grill Screws Front.jpg  
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post #5 of 15 Old 07-17-2011, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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(5) Remove the rubber stripping. After removing the plastic grill, remove the rubber stripping. This is held down by plastic push-pins. Typically these are once use and must be replaces but if they are carefully removed they can sometimes be reused. Additionally, the rubber can be stretched to be removed without removing the pins.
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Rubber Strip.jpg  
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post #6 of 15 Old 07-17-2011, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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(6) Remove mounting bracket. After removing the rubber strip the mounting bracket needs to be removed.

Prior to removing this mounting bracket, you will need to remove the hood latch. This can be done by removing the two bolts which hold it to the mounting bracket.

Removing the mounting bracket is done by removing the series of bolts along the top of the bracket. There should be two bolts on either side, one is visible in my photo, the other is under the rubber stripping. There are an additional two nuts which are located more centrally. There are also two bolts which hold the air conditioner condenser to the mounting bracket. When looking at the front of the vehicle there are two upside down U-shaped tube frame brackets with a single bolt at the top of the bracket. These bolts also need to be removed. Finally, there are two bolts which hold the plastic mounting bracket for the plastic grill to the metal mounting bracket for the radiator. This makes a total of eight bolts and two nuts.
Attached Thumbnails
Hood Latch.jpg   Mounting Bracket.jpg   Mounting Bracket Bolts.jpg   U-Shaped Bracket.jpg   U-Shaped Bracket Bolt.jpg  

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post #7 of 15 Old 07-17-2011, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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(7) Now remove the two final bolts holding the radiator in place. These are located, one on either side, on the front of the radiator.
Attached Thumbnails
Front Radiator Bolts.jpg  
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post #8 of 15 Old 07-17-2011, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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(8) Now you are ready to remove the radiator from the vehicle. There is a rubber stripping which separates the radiator from the air conditioner condenser. This may be stuck to the radiator. It just needs to peeled away and the radiator will lift straight out. After removing the radiator there should be two rubber grommets which bolt to the top of the radiator. At the top of the rubber should be the two bolts which the nuts from the mounting bracket attach. These rubber grommets will need to be removed and bolted to the new radiator.
Attached Thumbnails
Rubber Grommets.jpg  
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post #9 of 15 Old 07-17-2011, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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(9) Now you can begin putting everything back together. Just go in reverse. After you finish installing everything you will want to drain the remaining coolant from the block. There are two bolts, one on either side, of the block which should be removed. This will release the remaining coolant from the block. After this is drained replace the bolts and fill the radiator with new coolant. After the radiator is full, fill the coolant reservoir, with new coolant, to the "full" line. Start the vehicle and allow the engine to warm to it's normal operating temperature. Now turn off the engine and allow it to fully cool. Doing this will purge the cooling system of air. As the coolant cools it will draw coolant from the reservoir. You will need to repeat these steps until the coolant level in the reservoir remains at the "full" line. It typically takes about three cycles for the system to be completely purged of all air.
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post #10 of 15 Old 01-17-2013, 05:31 PM
Eric1080
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excellent writeup. used it so quickly replace the radiator in my 5.2.
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post #11 of 15 Old 08-22-2013, 12:32 AM
choyt80
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Thanks for this write up Tiger! Was very easy with the steps and pics you've provided.

On a side note to anyone else tackling this task - this can be done with the clutch fan attached. However, you'll need to loosen the plastic shroud.
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post #12 of 15 Old 08-22-2013, 01:27 AM
ZJfamilyfun
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Nice write up. Not my first rad replace, but had to read cause in the next two days i will be dont my first Zj rad.
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post #13 of 15 Old 12-30-2013, 10:17 PM
96gclscotty
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The red arrows and lines are very helpful. Thanks!
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post #14 of 15 Old 07-12-2016, 07:54 PM
jeepradiator99
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What about the 3 rubber seals on the top of the old radiator? (not the rubber with the screws through it)
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post #15 of 15 Old 07-12-2016, 07:59 PM
kg6mov
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Bruh, thread is from 2011 and the OP hasn't logged in since 2013.

What rubber seals are you talking about? There's the two mounting isolators (rubber with screws) and there's a single piece of weather stripping for between the radiator and upper radiator crossmember.


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