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4x2 Front suspension

948 views 26 replies 6 participants last post by  coralman 
#1 ·
4x2 Ball Joints

On my 97, the front suspension is all original with the exception of the shocks and track bar. Everything has been lubed and maintained over the years and I live in Texas so there is no rust.

When I am a crappy road, I do get a little bit of what seems to sounds like play on the left side, but I can't feel it.

Should I be checking ball joints?

I think I may have answered my own question when watching this video:

 
#2 ·
Does anyone have recommendations for brands? My Jeep is not used off-road. I see prices all over the map online. Pretty much all of it made in China these days.

Detroit Axle brand selling all 4 (upper / lower) for $28 shipped lol :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-4...ash=item23395bc745:g:Hu4AAOSwwNVTruhj&vxp=mtr

Pepboys sells Pro-Steer ball joints, but are they Dynatrac which are rated as a good brand, or is Pep boys pulling a bait and switch.. I can get a set of 4 over the counter for $120 with 25% off:

https://www.pepboys.com/product/det...EP%20TRUCK/GRAND%20CHEROKEE/0/6-242%20%204.0L

Here is a Dana Spicer kit (upper and lower) 1 side (selling from my home town for $47 a side) :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DANA-Spicer...ash=item2c9f1d530a:g:bG8AAOSwjVVVujwx&vxp=mtr

Probably will just go with the Spicer ...
 
#3 ·
So now I have the question as I am seeing that the DANA Spicer 706944X is for a Dana 30 only on some web sites ? Mine Jeep is 4x2, so just a straight axle (no diff) in the front. Are these the correct ball joints?
 
#4 ·
Yes, the 2wd is identical to the 4wd from the inner c out. I would only go with spicer balljoints.
 
#11 ·
The shop will install my Spicers for $400 labor.. Fair enough.. I don't feel like doing it, and I don't have all the tools..

I kind of avoid some of the heavier jobs due to time and tools. So this one I'll farm out. The last time I have let someone else work on my Jeep has been about 7 years lol
 
#12 ·
Around here many of the parts stores, like Advance & Autozone, have loaner tools. You pay full price, can keep for 30-days, and return for a full refund. Those stores are where I borrowed a good ball joint press kit a couple times for removing/installing them.

I'd think your D30 would be a lot easier to work around since you don't have 4WD with pulling the axle shafts. And you probably don't have the road/salt corrosion in Texas like we do here. I had no choice but to use heat to get the front hub assembly seized bolts out on my 96 4x4.

But you're call if you don't want to do the job to begin with. They may also tell you need to pay for an alignment after the ball-joint replacements and best to check $400 is the full price. Good luck.
 
#13 ·
Not a bad job[non rust belt] if you have the correct stuff to do it with.$400 is the new magic number at shops it seems.
 
#14 ·
Well I ended up tackling the job myself..at least halfway done. I got the drivers side done tonight, and it took me about 2.5 hours to do that side as this was my first time. Most of my time was spent fiddling with the ball joint tool and making sure I had the tool on right compressing the old ones out and the new ones in. I took my time making sure things were right. I put it back together and pulled my Jeep in it's normal parking space in the garage so my wife can get her car in the garage too as we may get some hail overnight.
 
#18 ·
Here is the drivers side as I took pics of that last night. I used the following links as my guide.

http://www.higherground4x4.com/foru...all-Joint-Installation-for-a-Jeep-XJ-YJ-or-ZJ

This video is good if you are renting a Ball Joint tool from Autozone or Pepboys. It helped me figure out which pieces to use for compressing on/off the BJs:



Here is the hub removed. On the 4x2, there is no need to remove the 32mm bolt , just remove the 3 13mm bolts holding the hub assembly on. This also works for 4x4 as you just pull the entire axle out (see first link above). Note I removed the speed sensor and got it out of the way so I would not damage it, also I took a break pad off and rested the caliper assembly on the control arm :



After removing the cotter pins and castle nuts, I used a pickle fork on the top BJ to break the steering knuckle free. Note that pin from the upper BJ got stuck in the steering knuckle (this happened on both sides). I had to use the BJ tool to compress it out. Be careful as when I was doing the driver side, it shot out and hit me in the leg. Since I had to use the BJ removal tool on the knuckle, I removed the tie rod from the knuckle. When I pressed out the top BJ's, I put the pin back in place so the BJ removal tool would be centered.



OLD BJ's pressed out:



NEW BJ's pressed in. Note I removed the grease fitting off the top BJ to press it in, the put it back in place. I also removed the rubber grommets when pressing them in, and installed them after I pressed the new ones in:



On a side note, when using the rented BJ removal tool it really helps if you have a lift as when doing the uppers, the part of the BJ tool you need to wrench on is at the top of the wheel well. I could not get my 1/2" ratchet on it, so I ended up using a big crescent wrench with a 24" pipe for leverage.
 
#24 ·
Here is the hub removed. On the 4x2, there is no need to remove the 32mm bolt , just remove the 3 13mm bolts holding the hub assembly on.
Isn't the RWD front unit bearing hub the exact same unit as the 4wd version is?
What is holding the unit bearing together if there is no stub shaft & end nut in the bearing?
 
#20 ·
I still have a little rattle going over bumps.. although, it is a little less pronounced.. I am thinking sway bar end links since the track bar was replaced about 25-30k miles ago.. Any recommendations for non lifted 4x2 sway bar end links?

EDIT: Just re-read Coralman's post.. I see Crown Endlink part number 52088437
 
#22 ·
Just checked everything.. sway bar end links seem to be ok, control arm bushings (on the axle end) are a little wallowed, but ok for now.. The track bar however has come a little loose where it mounts near the steering box.. I can replicate what I am hearing going over bumps, so I will get under there and tighten it up..

Thanks
 
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