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Unread 06-28-2013, 08:48 PM   #31
coralman
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You used a well worn whatever it was and it fit perfectly. Optionally, it would be something that looks like this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Torque-Adapt...976f52&vxp=mtr

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Unread 06-28-2013, 08:53 PM   #32
JBrady5555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coralman View Post
If you are then you know welding often weakens adjacent metal. Just my opinion, replace it with a bellows type manifold or a true header. Zee did the bellows thing. I'm still in limbo on the choice while I have a apn header sitting in the parts room{don't ask}.
It might weaken if you leave a bunch of undercut in your weld, but if you do it right it shouldn't be a problem. That being said, what I weld on generally isn't as thin as exhaust pipe. At least not the pressure parts we weld on. I have welded some non-pressure stuff as thin as paper. Rotten junk iron at that.

I priced the borla exhaust at 400.00. I cant afford that right now, if its cracked I'll either try to beef it up myself or resort to the junk yard. I think I can beef one up to better than a used stock one, but I've been wrong many times before, lol. Plus the Friday night Margaritas may be talking, lol
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Unread 06-28-2013, 08:54 PM   #33
JBrady5555
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Opppsss, double post. Darn Margaritas
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Unread 06-28-2013, 09:12 PM   #34
coralman
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The whole design in the zj primary exhaust is flawed. Harmonics, motor and tranny mounts condition, pipe routing, all of it. If you consider the next model year of grand cherokees they went back to a cast manifold. That says something. Debates have it that even the bellows type manifold is insuffecient and the real problem lies in a flex connection at the manifold, front pipe connection. Its all a crapshoot. Heat transference from the proximity of that area to the oilpan is also in question. Heat transference to the driverside motor mount can be in question if you deviate fom spec. Who knows?
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Unread 06-28-2013, 09:17 PM   #35
JBrady5555
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Originally Posted by coralman View Post
The whole design in the zj primary exhaust is flawed. Harmonics, motor and tranny mounts condition, pipe routing, all of it. If you consider the next model year of grand cherokees they went back to a cast manifold. That says something. Debates have it that even the bellows type manifold is insuffecient and the real problem lies in a flex connection at the manifold, front pipe connection. Its all a crapshoot. Heat transference from the proximity of that area to the oilpan is also in question. Heat transference to the driverside motor mount can be in question if you deviate fom spec. Who knows?
I hear ya, I understand what happens when there is no expansion joint where its needed from the work I do. Even if I did beef it up it would crack eventually. No amount of weld would probably matter when heat causes something to expand that wasn't built to do so, lol. That being said, it might be worth a try versus putting a junk yard manifold in thats doomed to repeat the same flaw.
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Unread 06-28-2013, 10:59 PM   #36
Uniblurb
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Coralman, agree with Zee and thanks for searching that thread out! Like him I also use this forum to remember how, when and where I did things.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrady5555 View Post
I hear ya, I understand what happens when there is no expansion joint where its needed from the work I do. Even if I did beef it up it would crack eventually. No amount of weld would probably matter when heat causes something to expand that wasn't built to do so, lol. That being said, it might be worth a try versus putting a junk yard manifold in thats doomed to repeat the same flaw.
If you aren't looking for a performance type manifold/header both ZeeJay and I ended up going with the Dorman 674196 one as can be seen below. It has bellows built in for helping prevent cracking from expansion and contraction.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...hedFrom=header

And best to go with the "Felpro Intake & Manifold Gasket, MS94790" for $11 instead of the one that comes with the header. And many of us don't buy lots of parts from Advance w/o using one of the below discount codes.

http://www.retailmenot.com/view/adva....com?c=4582125

You'll need to open a free online account to use these codes and anything over $75 after discount ships for free. Or you can find the parts at a local store and pick it up there within an hour of ordering. If not is stock at a store you check you'll have to find another store with it in stock or have it shipped to your home or work. Lubricants and some parts/tools won't qualify for discount but most do.

This Dorman header is in stock at many of the local stores and costs $190. Add in the gasket for $11 and total is $201 plus tax. But once in the cart type in promo code "BIG50" ($50 off $175+) and total will be $151 plus tax w/free shipping. Or just print the receipt and take it into the local store you selected for pickup.

Just thought I'd pass this along and not sure if your interested. Below is the thread hdrocknroll started where a lot of us have turned these codes into somewhat of a game for splitting up orders, using multiple codes, and saving big bucks! Some of these codes in the thread have expired and reason I posted the retailmenot.com link. Good luck!

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/a...codes-1327649/
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Unread 06-29-2013, 12:58 PM   #37
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If you havent yet installed the freeze plugs, put the new ones in the freezer for an hour or so before you install them. Makes it easier. ( I think that was a Ratmonkey trick)
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"..it's not air, it is the opposite of air... suckage so to speak."

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Unread 06-29-2013, 05:18 PM   #38
JBrady5555
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If you havent yet installed the freeze plugs, put the new ones in the freezer for an hour or so before you install them. Makes it easier. ( I think that was a Ratmonkey trick)
Thanks for the tip. The parts got pushed back to monday so I haven't installed them yet. I did notice that the back two freeze plugs on my block had those rubber universal plugs in them as seen in the picture at the beginning of my thread. When I removed them today I noticed that both holes in the block that had the universal plugs had a little groove imperfetion in the top of them. Do you think that maybe the previous owner used these because he couldn't get a seal with the oem freeze plugs due to a damaged freeze plug hole? I would hate to get this thing back together and end up with a leak. That would suck. The front three freeze plug holes that had the original plugs in them were nice and smooth, no imperfections. Two of the three were leaking though, the two universals were not.
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Unread 06-29-2013, 05:33 PM   #39
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Clean the crud off the rim as best you can, hit the freeze plug with RTV and knock it in. I hope you bought 6, in case you screw one up, like I've been known to do.
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Unread 06-29-2013, 05:46 PM   #40
JBrady5555
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Originally Posted by Oldfrog View Post
Clean the crud off the rim as best you can, hit the freeze plug with RTV and knock it in. I hope you bought 6, in case you screw one up, like I've been known to do.
Yes I took your advice from my previous thread about this and I bought six. My problem is that I've been known to screw up more than once, lol. What type of rtv should I use? Coat the whole back and the side edges right? Then use a big socket to hammer them in so I get a good square hit on it right? Flush to 1/16th inset correct?
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Unread 06-29-2013, 06:11 PM   #41
JBrady5555
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Oh and by the way, after I pulled the exhaust manifold today I found a couple big cracks. Between finding them and discovering the worse valve train sludge of all time today wasn't a very good day.
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Unread 06-29-2013, 07:08 PM   #42
JBrady5555
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Guess I'm gonna order one of those APN Headers since my manifold is cracked.
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Unread 06-29-2013, 08:05 PM   #43
Uniblurb
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Guess I'm gonna order one of those APN Headers since my manifold is cracked.
So guess you decided to pass on this one similar to OE but with bellows about 6 posts back? If you go with an APN header you better research it good so you don't end up making a bunch of alterations.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/4...l#post15620299
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Unread 06-29-2013, 08:12 PM   #44
JBrady5555
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So guess you decided to pass on this one similar to OE but with bellows about 6 posts back? If you go with an APN header you better research it good so you don't end up making a bunch of alterations.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/4...l#post15620299
I did see that one that you suggested Uniblurb but after researching it seems the majority of folks are happy with their APN header. A few cases where they cracked APN honored their lifetime warranty too.

I didn't see where it had to be modified though with the exception of I believe it was the 99 ZJ that it had problems fitting on. What mods are you talking about, you have me interested and worried since I just placed my order about 45 seconds ago.
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Unread 06-29-2013, 08:18 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by JBrady5555 View Post
the worse valve train sludge of all time today
What's the plan for this? There is a lot of info on this forum to address the problem, "how to clean valve train sludge" upper left hand corner.

I shied away from the APN because of the possibility of the problems Uni mentioned. Since you have the resources to modify it if necessary, you may be okay.
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