Well I started my freeze plug tear down today. The parts wont be in until tomorrow but I figured I would get ahead of the game. Everything went smooth considering I've never took a engine down this far before. The bottom intake manifold bolts were the hardest for me, they are hard to get to and you have to do the job blind for the most part. Here are a few pics and some questions I got along the way.
Here is one of the worst leaking freeze plugs. I have two that are this bad.
Thats as far as I have gotten, I didn't get the exhaust manifold off because weather set in. I pluged the intake ports with rags to keep moisture and whatever out, is it nessecary to do this? Should I try to clean all the gunk out of the inside of the intake manifold, what can I use to get the grime out. Since its tore down this far I wouldn't mind getting everything cleaned up. Not show truck nice but at least clean.
I had good luck cleaning the intake using a drain pan, engine cleaner (The gallon jugs you get at the parts store), and a plastic bottle brush. Stood the manifold up and soaked it all with cleaner, let it sit. Then soaked the brush and pushed it through ports to scrub. Washed it out with water hose while still scrubbing and it looked almost new afterwards.
The bottom manifold bolts are tough to get started. Be double sure they don't cross thread. I had an extension and deep socket just long enough to reach beyond the edge of the manifold, so it was off to the races tightening them up.
Seems like I had to take a fuel line bracket off for clearance.
Be sure to use a torque wrench.
Yes, use the OEM freeze plugs to replace the universal ones.
i guess some people do from what i have read on here but i would just buy the gasket from autozone or where ever you get parts from
2004 Lexus Es330, alive; 1999 Cherokee Sport
1998 Grand Cherokee, sold
1997 Grand Cherokee; Black and Gold, Limited 4.0....RIP 2005
to the good times and the bad, the family we have and lost, little brother 1988-2011
Use tack glue on the bottom of the valve cover gasket and tack to the head, then install the cover.
If you are getting a Felpro manifold gasket you dont need copper seal. Some people swear by it, but i didnt use it and it is fine.
I did get the felpro gasket w/grommets. What exactly is tack glue and where can I buy it? I haven't removed the valve cover yetand have never done one on a 4.0 before.. From what your saying is that I need to mate the new valve cover gasket to the head w/ the tack glue and then set the valve cover on top correct?
If you get the correct valve cover gasket it will have a steel core with a rubber exterior with ridges, no need for RTV. However, the valve cover may have been bent or warped over the years so lay a straight edge against the sealing surfaces and see if they are in fact inline and flat. If not you may have to take a block of wood and lightly reshape them back into line.
This thread by Uniblurb and around post #39 by ZeeJay, may give you insight into the manifold removal and replace.