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Unread 07-14-2014, 09:02 PM   #1
missmy59
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4.0 Liter Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

Should I use any Permatex when installing the new rubber Fel-Pro gasket?

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Unread 07-14-2014, 10:52 PM   #2
merc07
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no. any rubber gasket can seal on its own, and if your a cheap *** like myself and don't want to spend $30 on a gasket just make one out of rtv gasket maker
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Unread 07-15-2014, 02:30 AM   #3
AVR2
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I love that blue Fel-Pro gasket. I've had it on and off numerous times, and it still seals perfectly.
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Unread 07-15-2014, 03:01 AM   #4
missmy59
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Thanks for the awesome help.

I've owned my ZJ since December 2002 and over 100K miles myself - 215555 miles at the last oil change. Things are a becoming a bit tight, so I'm attempting things that I haven't done in a couple of decades (and wasn't that good at them then). So thanks for all of your help for this, and I'm sure many other posts soon.
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Unread 07-15-2014, 03:57 AM   #5
Uniblurb
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Just a few tips on replacing the valve cover gasket on your 4.0 if you haven't done this in a while. It's easiest to remove the cable bracket on the intake with 3 bolts with 10mm heads and hit them with some rust cutter first. Don't drop these bolts through the holes in the intake though. Then to get the cables off of the throttle body turn the outside linkage for enough slack to pull the plastic kick down cable connector back to the right/off. The throttle cable will just snap on/off. Once all this is loose unsnap the cables from the holder on top of the valve cover and move the whole thing to the passenger side to get it out of the way.

Keep track of which are studs and which are bolts when removing them from the valve cover and you'll have to remove the plug wire brackets which are on studs. Be careful when removing the short hose/plastic line on the back of the top CCV fitting since these become brittle and break easily. Might be good to pull it off of the intake too so it's out of the way unless you can just turn it back to the firewall out of the way.

When scraping any gasket residue, or RTV if anybody used it before, on the head surface/edge stick rags or paper towels along the rockers so you don't get a bunch of dirt/material down in the push rod guide holes. Make sure all gasket material is removed from both mating surfaces. Spray brake cleaner is a good/cheap method for cleaning oil/gunk out of the inside of the valve cover and cleaning the mating surfaces.

As already mentioned no need for RTV/gasket maker on your Felpro gasket. Not sure if this has the metal inserts or you use the grommets over? Biggest mistake many make is over-torquing the bolts/studs which causes the gasket to squeeze out too much or even split. Spec is only 115 inch lbs which equals 9.6 ftlbs. Good luck!
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Unread 07-15-2014, 12:52 PM   #6
merc07
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^^very good info as usual, uniblurb!^^
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Unread 07-15-2014, 07:33 PM   #7
ZeeJay1997
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FWIW, i bought an oem gasket at dealership today for 35 bucks. are felpros better?

thanks for the refresher course professor uni
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Unread 07-15-2014, 09:13 PM   #8
mig1289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
FWIW, i bought an oem gasket at dealership today for 35 bucks. are felpros better?

thanks for the refresher course professor uni
They're both good. Better then the leaky OEM gasket that's on there. I replaced mine using the blue fel pro last month and haven't seen a drop of oil on the driveway since
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Unread 07-16-2014, 01:36 AM   #9
Uniblurb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merc07 View Post
^^very good info as usual, uniblurb!^^
Thanks merc and when you're an insomniac all you have to do is write/remember! Lol.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
FWIW, i bought an oem gasket at dealership today for 35 bucks. are felpros better?

thanks for the refresher course professor uni
Right Zee, and professor of all trades, master of none!

I've always used the OEM head cover gaskets. You think them FSM boys ever heard of a valve cover? Guess not and just try finding it in a FSM search!

Regardless, one of the reasons I asked if the Felpro had metal inserts/grommets? Believe the OEM gaskets are made like that since you might not over-torque them. I'm on about the 4th valve cover gasket but guess 50K miles/per gasket may not be bad odds. I'll have to try the Felpro gasket next time around.
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-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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Unread 07-16-2014, 07:31 AM   #10
Jeepkruzer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
Regardless, one of the reasons I asked if the Felpro had metal inserts/grommets?
I did a head replacement on one of my Jeeps and FelPro has the metal grommets on the valve cover, IIRC.
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Unread 07-16-2014, 08:51 AM   #11
AVR2
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Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
I've always used the OEM head cover gaskets. You think them FSM boys ever heard of a valve cover? Guess not and just try finding it in a FSM search!
I don't know about later years, but for the 1993 4.0L the "head cover gasket" is a cured one, and if it's damaged, you're supposed to replace the entire valve cover (since the gasket-forming material is pre-applied to it).

I remember that when I removed my valve cover for the first time, it did indeed have that tar-like gasket material, and it took forever to clean it all off the cover.
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Unread 07-16-2014, 11:29 AM   #12
zjosh93
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Yep, my 93 was the same way. I wonder too if later models are different. My valve cover has compression stops cast into the cover so you can't overtorque the gasket. I cleaned all that gunk out and have had a Fel-Pro blue gasket in there for the last 50,000 miles. I've had it off three times or so and still no leaks.
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Unread 07-17-2014, 05:37 AM   #13
coralman
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Put a victor on this last time. As long as it is reusable type son'y think it makes much difference as to brand. My only tip is when you install the cover keep a careful eye on the torque limiters. I spent 10 minutes looking for one at the rear that had come loose and fell right on top of a rocker arm.
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Unread 07-17-2014, 05:46 AM   #14
ZeeJay1997
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keep a careful eye on the torque limiters
i would have certainly been oblivious to the risk. thanks for tip. uni will give you bonus points for that.
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Unread 07-17-2014, 09:45 AM   #15
Uniblurb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
i would have certainly been oblivious to the risk. thanks for tip. uni will give you bonus points for that.
Really Zee and here I thought those metal torque-limiters were like little crush sleeves!

BTW, some good info AVR2 and I wondered why that tar-like substance was so hard to remove on my 93 4.0 XJ valve cover and head mating surface. And no, I didn't change out/throw the old head/valve cover away.
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96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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