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Unread 12-14-2010, 07:08 PM   #1
CharlesW16
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4.0 Harmonic Balancer

Well, this one seems a little tricky.

The bottom (drive) pulley is sticking a good 1/4" farther out than it should be, and it has me thinking the harmonic balancer is fried. Now, I'm guessing this is a straightforward repair, but I have not the slightest knowledge of the workings of a harmonic balancer. I would like to attempt this myself, but am having trouble finding any tutorial like instructions.

If anyone could help guide me through this repair it would be great, I'm good with step by step. Thanks guys.

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Unread 12-14-2010, 07:46 PM   #2
ratmonkey
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remove everything in front of the motor(rad and all that, you'll need the room), remove the pulley, then the crank bolt. attach slide hammer and the proper puller attachment. pull it off, replace front crank seal, tap balancer back on with a soft mallet. reverse process paying attention to proper torque values.
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Unread 12-15-2010, 10:48 AM   #3
02Lightning
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The balancer and the pulley are all one unit on the 4.0.
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Unread 12-15-2010, 12:27 PM   #4
CharlesW16
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Well the outer pulley seems to be sliding off of the harmonic balancer.

Does anyone know a decent brand for the replacement? inexpensive is good, I'm 16, but at the same time I dont want it failing again.
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Unread 12-15-2010, 08:42 PM   #5
ratmonkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02Lightning View Post
The balancer and the pulley are all one unit on the 4.0.
thanks for clarifying
Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesW16 View Post
Well the outer pulley seems to be sliding off of the harmonic balancer.

Does anyone know a decent brand for the replacement? inexpensive is good, I'm 16, but at the same time I dont want it failing again.
the pulley is attached to the outer ring, the outer ring is attached to the hub by a rubber strip. the rubber strip is no longer glued in place properly and will throw the accessory drive off your motor if you don't fix it now.
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Unread 12-16-2010, 08:55 AM   #6
ajmorell
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I think I am running one from RockAuto, only ~6k miles on it but it seems decent. FWIW you can buy a puller set from Harbor Freight for like $10 to remove it. I don't think you'll be able to fit a slide hammer in there and you can't pry the thing off.
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Unread 12-16-2010, 12:43 PM   #7
coralman
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Just a effort to help, but I,ve hears rumblings about dorman harmonic balancers, which is why I went to orielys and got one. Haven't installed it yet but it was 49.95 with a new key.
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Unread 12-16-2010, 04:46 PM   #8
CharlesW16
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I will pick up one soon... I haven't been driving it since I noticed this.

What exactly is the key? I understand it is necessary to use special tools for removal and installation.
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Unread 12-16-2010, 04:58 PM   #9
coralman
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The little metal piece that fits in the crank and guides the balancer into proper posistion. Its half moon shaped.
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Unread 12-16-2010, 05:03 PM   #10
CharlesW16
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I thought that was part of the actual unit? As is it wasn't removable? Is Dorman a good company? i heard some others a while back saying that there harmonic balancers weren't cut out for Jeeps or something... Cant quite remember.
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Unread 12-17-2010, 06:02 AM   #11
coralman
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Thats why I went to orielys, they carry a different brand other than dorman. The key is separate piece, not made to the crank.It should just tap out carefully.
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Unread 12-17-2010, 11:07 AM   #12
Myetball
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I just replaced my balancer yesterday. Had a Dorman on there since Aug '08 and the two sections were loose enough I started smelling the rubber burning. I guess when I bought the one in '08 there was only a 1 year warranty so I was SOL for free replacement even though they now have a lifetime warranty.

There was no way I was pulling the radiator out since I was 200 miles from home working only with the tools in my Jeep. Managed to jury-rig some tools with a balancer puller to get the pulley off, the threaded rod for the puller was just too long. I don't know how anyone "taps" a balancer on with a rubber mallet. Had to use a installation tool and it was a tight fit that took alot of pressure from start to fully seated. I did have to unbolt the radiator, a/c condenser, and add-on trans cooler to move the radiator about 1-2 inches for clearance with the installation tool.

BTW, I bought a puller ($16.99) but rented the installer ($44.00). You'll need an installer with an adapter fitting for 1/2"x20 threads. Autozone part number for the installer is 27144.
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Unread 12-17-2010, 01:11 PM   #13
CharlesW16
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Has anyone used this one? More Information for ATP 102005
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Unread 12-17-2010, 01:28 PM   #14
Myetball
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I'd bet they are all made in China, like Dorman, and of similar quality. Buy one with a lifetime warranty so it only costs time and maybe some bloody knuckles if it goes bad later on.
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Unread 12-17-2010, 01:55 PM   #15
CharlesW16
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I would assume the same thing, they are all made in the same factory. Does anyone know if the OEM one is worth spending the extra on?
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