37's on my 5" zj - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 09-20-2017, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
BRipper
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Location: anaheim
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37's on my 5" zj

I am looking to go pretty big on my street rig, I won't offroad it much until key parts are beefed up, but want it to look good for now

Currenty:

95 4.0 zj 4x4 orvis auto

-Iron rock offroad front long arm upgrade
pieced with 4.5" front r.e. springs, 3.5" r.e. rears
shocks for height, drop down bracket for stock rear track bar
-Rustys over the knuckle steering (weld on new mounts) & front track bar
-32x11.5x15 bfg a/t
-rear adj upper and lower short arms
-Extended end links

I'm not looking to put too much money in it right now, so stock gears, axles, and all. Also, it's just driven down the street 2 miles to work, so freeway isn't a must, I know it will have trouble finding the correct gear at higher speeds

looking to put on some 17's and 37x12.5's falken m/t
I have some coil spacers Ill prob need to run, adding 5/8" to the rear & 1/2" to the front, so 5" front, just over 4" rear

I don't mind chopping it up & doing whatever it takes, taking off bumpers. I have a fab shop to do tube work/welding or anything


I can't seem to find many low zjs with 37s, let alone 4.0, my "Orvis" came with 3.73 so at least thats a little better

Any advice to the obstacles ahead of me? Also need input on offset for wheels

thanks


Last edited by BRipper; 09-20-2017 at 11:28 AM.
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post #2 of 9 Old 09-20-2017, 02:47 PM
ax1598ZJ
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Just going to put my .02 in, the Dana 35 will probably break within a short time and the Dana 30 front is going to get worn out real quick (ball joints, wheel bearings) Probly going to have a very hard time turning those meats, I can see the tie rod bending pretty easy.

Going to require quite a bit of pounding and cutting, only way to find out how much is by trying to get the tires on.

Everything is going to suffer on that jeep even on the street. Motor and trans included.

Other than that it is a slam dunk, if you got a shop to help then go for it. Jeeps gonna look more like a buggy by the time it's done. Might be more work than you realize.

1998 green ZJ 4.0L, ax15 trans and a vengeful PCM, 4.5" lift 33x10.5
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post #3 of 9 Old 09-20-2017, 05:09 PM
nicyousuckk
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Location: phoenix
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I hope you don't like that jeep at all. Or maybe you'll really need to love it...

Lots of bumpstop, front and rear. I had clearance issues on the rear of mine at 4.5 with 33's. Increase your Sawzall blade budget.

As previously mentioned... the D35 is nowhere near up to the task of 37's. You can literally break it just driving on the street with tires that big.

I forget if the stock ZJ knuckles have adjustable steering stops... but you'll want to decrease the total lock to lock travel or else just absolutely cut everything in front of the tire off the Jeep. I'm guessing there won't be a lot of fender left in the front. Might just want to take them off.

I really don't even know what kind of backspacing you'll need. I'm thinking minimum 3.75 for a 37x13.5. Most people run an 8" wheel on 12.5 width.

Also, a drop bracket for the rear trackbar? Those are notorious for failing and breaking off the body side mount.

I mean, those things aside... if you wanna talk about obstacles: Reversing, a 2% gradient, parking, keeping the transmission cool...

This just sounds like a crapshoot to me.
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post #4 of 9 Old 09-20-2017, 07:19 PM
GOLDWING
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Location: eau claire
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Mall Crawlers give me indigestion. Without major brake upgrades that thing is NOT going to stop worth a damn. That makes it a safety issue. I don't care if you screw up your Jeep, just try not to kill anyone with it.

GW

2 '98 4.0 ZJs
Hers is stock, mine, OME shocks, BB, Aussie, 2x6 sliders, 31s, etc.
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post #5 of 9 Old 09-20-2017, 09:42 PM
Timo_90xj
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I'm at 3" of lift and I could fit 35s with current bumpstopping. 4.5" available uptravel front & rear.

Jeep is heavily modified though, including front wheel arches enlarged.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #6 of 9 Old 09-20-2017, 10:09 PM
kg6mov
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37's on stock axles is a bad plan. 37's on stock gears (even 3.73) and a 4.slow is a really bad plan.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #7 of 9 Old 09-20-2017, 11:26 PM
Timo_90xj
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JK rubi d44s and 5.13 gears

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #8 of 9 Old 09-22-2017, 09:31 AM
mosey2001
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Frame stiffeners and stearing box reinforced are critical. My son put 35s on his xj and the entire frame flexes when the wheel turns causing insane death wobble. Just one more reason to stay < 33". Most people don't think about this but that and brakes are my biggest concern with big lifts. The difference in rotating mass grows exponentially with big tires. These are required and I really feel it is bs that these companies sell lifts that don't address these issues. D44s would be great additions however chromoly axels with life time warranty and reinforced braces and axle housings will do this also.

Point is a lift is only a small piece of the equation. The final piece is patience and money!! + more money!

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post #9 of 9 Old 09-22-2017, 10:48 AM
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mosey2001 View Post
Frame stiffeners and stearing box reinforced are critical.
Frame stiffeners are needed with heavy axles and/ or serious wheeling even if you run just something like 33s.

Quote:
My son put 35s on his xj and the entire frame flexes when the wheel turns causing insane death wobble.
Front frame flex can and does cause DW, but most often it's other issues on our uniframe Jeeps. That being said, running hard trails on smaller tires, or ~35s or larger on a ZJ certainly does require stiffening the frame rails and preferably doing something to prevent the steering box from moving and trying to crack the frame if one plans on wheeling the Jeep.

Quote:
Just one more reason to stay < 33". Most people don't think about this but that and brakes are my biggest concern with big lifts. The difference in rotating mass grows exponentially with big tires.
Lift height itself has nothing to do with braking power, only tire size.
IMO, nothing wrong with companies selling lift kits without brake upgrades, but it is certainly true that with the already marginal brakes at stock height, weight & tires, going to just 31s, let alone 33s or 35s it is a really bad idea to stick with the stock brakes.

Quote:
D44s would be great additions however chromoly axels with life time warranty and reinforced braces and axle housings will do this also.
35s and a D30 on a ZJ is a very bad combination unless you just want to very lightly feather the skinny pedal on just about every trail. 37s and a D30 would be simply stupid. It could probably work for a mall-crawler that never gets to see other than pavement and normal dirt roads, but that's about it.
Chromoly's do help in not snapping an axle shaft, but the problem is R&P becomes the weak point.

Quote:
Point is a lift is only a small piece of the equation. The final piece is patience and money!! + more money!
Absolutely 100% true.

And the higher lift one goes, or the larger tires one wants to run, the more expensive it gets. Running 37s on a ZJ so that it actually does perform on-road and off-road - and doesn't self-grenade every time you wheel it - is easily 4k+ invested.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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