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Unread 01-27-2013, 05:44 AM   #16
Foundrydude
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1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Flatsville, IA
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Quality aftermarket high-alloy axle shafts
New wheel bearings and ball joints, also quality stuff
Aftermarket high strength wheel studs

^those 3 things will pretty much double the strength and durability of any high mileage OEM axle, but they cost 2X to 3X more than stock parts. So as you're wheeling it toward the failure point, have your sources and prices all lined up. And get the right replacement parts. Then you won't be one of these guys who's replacing it the 5th time.

Having said that, I'd still be slowing putting together an 8.8 in the corner of the garage. You probably won't need it for a year or two, so there's plenty of time to shop for excellent deals on the rebuilding parts. Because even though the 8.8 is strong, the factory bearing quality is around 150k miles, so it's gonna need rebuilt too.

good luck

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Unread 01-27-2013, 11:58 AM   #17
ZeJokee
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i've been running 33s on my d30 and d35 with lsd in the rear for the last few years and have not had one problem. That with moderately wheeling it and quite a few burn outs. Check my sig for tire specs. Rear end is starting to whine but the pinion bearing needs replaced. When they break I will up grade.
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Unread 01-27-2013, 01:15 PM   #18
PolkaPower
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If you are very slow and cautious off road, especially on rocks you will probably not break it. Just don't slip and bounce. A heavy foot is the fastest way to destroy things. But it's really fun sometimes.
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Unread 01-27-2013, 02:10 PM   #19
JMSMN
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Going to hijak thread real quick. For the d44a is there only the option of the spartan and the aussie?
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Unread 01-27-2013, 02:27 PM   #20
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMSMN View Post
Going to hijak thread real quick. For the d44a is there only the option of the spartan and the aussie?
Or you could weld the spider gears.
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Unread 01-27-2013, 02:31 PM   #21
JMSMN
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Lol. 8.8 it is then. What year specifically should I be looking for? I have a 97', 4.0, 242.
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Unread 01-27-2013, 03:37 PM   #22
PolkaPower
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Whatever years had the 31 spline count. I think it's 95 and up.
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Unread 01-27-2013, 05:58 PM   #23
jeepinbassist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
Or you could weld the spider gears.
I wish!
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Unread 01-27-2013, 08:19 PM   #24
flexyxj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMSMN View Post
Lol. 8.8 it is then. What year specifically should I be looking for? I have a 97', 4.0, 242.
You do realize an 8.8 swap is not a direct bolt in right?
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Unread 01-27-2013, 09:04 PM   #25
Erbo1Kanerbo
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My v8 laredo with tow package (trans cooler and class 4 tow hitch) didnt come with limited slip in the 44a
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Unread 01-27-2013, 09:48 PM   #26
JMSMN
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You do realize an 8.8 swap is not a direct bolt in right?
Um, yes I do. And it just so happens I used to be a mechanic and can weld like a sob. And have access to a huge welding and fabrication shop in ND where I work.
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Unread 01-28-2013, 06:53 AM   #27
KyBoy1991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMSMN View Post
Um, yes I do. And it just so happens I used to be a mechanic and can weld like a sob. And have access to a huge welding and fabrication shop in ND where I work.
I have gone thru what you are debating...I have been on 33s for about 6-7 years. I don't do the rocks, but play in the mud like a mad man...and in mud you use A LOT of skinny pedal.

That being said, mine is my DD, and the rear is Locked with a Detroit NoSpin full time locker. Now, I've yet to break a shaft off-road, but have snapped 2 on the pavement....truthfully that is the way it should be IMO. But, I've been building the 8.8 for the past year almost...maybe 8 months...anyway I chose the Artec Truss kit, and still welded the tubes to the housing. Using a factory LSD with upgraded stiff springs and new clutches. It is going in the jeep this coming Saturday, and I can't wait. I know that seems backwards going from a weak 35 with locker to badass 8.8 with LSD...but I don't off-road like i used to and currently can't afford the ARB or ECTED I want and this was free to me and the best option currently. Eventually when i can afford a new truck, i will lock the rear of this back up. But for now, it's LSD.

That all being said, I have ran 33s for a long time, and hard on the 35 and minimal issue. Just lots of wearing out on the bearings...and 2 snapped shafts. Other than that, it's been a cheap investment for the time I've been able to use it. They've also had 4.56 gears in them the entire time with the 33s....this is a must! Never saw that brought up anywhere but you have to re-gear...some will say otherwise...but if you don't the 4slo nickname will ring true every time you start driving.
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Unread 01-28-2013, 06:58 AM   #28
nickpequignot
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The 35 mainly breaks when you are hopping and crawling with it and you are givin it lots of right foot. It can't handle the tq applied to it in those situations. Now in mud you are already rolling when you get to the mud. Putting a lot less on the internals. Don't get me wrong you can still snap stuff in mud. But it's not goin to be as frequent in mud as it would on rocks with the same stuff.
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Unread 01-28-2013, 08:11 AM   #29
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickpequignot View Post
The 35 mainly breaks when you are hopping and crawling with it and you are givin it lots of right foot. It can't handle the tq applied to it in those situations. Now in mud you are already rolling when you get to the mud. Putting a lot less on the internals. Don't get me wrong you can still snap stuff in mud. But it's not goin to be as frequent in mud as it would on rocks with the same stuff.
It's when you are spinning the tires and then they suddenly catch. It makes a nice metal grinding sound.
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Unread 01-28-2013, 08:40 AM   #30
nickpequignot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower

It's when you are spinning the tires and then they suddenly catch. It makes a nice metal grinding sound.
That's what I was getting at. Usually not as big of a problem in mud. But could still happen.
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