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Unread 02-15-2006, 02:42 PM   #1
EMTimZJ
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249 -> 242 swap completed *pics*

Yesterday my buddy Aron and I swapped out my 249 with the toasted VC for a 242. This is a 242 from a ’96 ZJ. I got this 242 from a guy in CT, Mike (grandman97) lives in the same town and was able to pick it up for me. We then met up at the JF Paragon Run II in October (yep the arctic chill + monsoon run ) A big interstate HIGHFIVE to Mike!

Some other helpful links:
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2781
http://jeephorizons.com/tech/tcase.html

The reasons for doing this are in there too. My VC had 175K and was well toasted! I now have low-lock as well.

Here is the case when I got it:


I cleaned it up and tore it down:


(Remove the tail cone (three 15mm bolts) to get to the snap ring, that ring has to come off before you can split the case and pull it apart. Don’t loose it!)

Looking at the inside from the rear. The left gear is for the front output, the center rod coming toward the camera is part of the shift mechanism and the right gears and main shaft are all part of the 2WD / PT / FT and low range. Note the snap ring pliers in the bottom right, get a better pair, the wider they open the better.


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Unread 02-15-2006, 02:43 PM   #2
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Back half of the case and tail cone:


I cleaned out the entire case and looked everything over. It was all in good working order and shifted firmly into all gear selections. I replaced the tail cone seal before putting it under the ZJ. I used RTV and sealed it back up.

Support the transmission with a jack and remove the skid plate and crossmember:


Drop the front and rear driveshafts…

Unclip the speedo sensor near the tail cone, the 4WD switch and vent tube near the shifter linkage, and the shifter linkage itself. You are now ready to get at the 6 15mm (or 9/16) nuts that mount the transfer case to the transmission. The top one on the passenger side is the hardest. If the studs start to come off with the nut, not a big deal.

TC removed. Here is the business end of the 46RH transmission:


I carefully cleaned the mating surface with a rough towel before installation. You can also see the bolt circle in the above picture, it will give you an idea of where the 6 nuts are.

Use a seal puller to carefully remove the rear transmission output seal:
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Unread 02-15-2006, 02:43 PM   #3
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I got the replacement from Napa, around $8 (I think) and here is the part number:
(old one on the left, new one on the right)


The computer listed the same seal for all the transmissions (42RE, 44RE, 46RE, and 46RH)

TIPS:

CHOCK YOUR WHEELS!

Having an 8mm wrench (no not a socket and ratchet) will help get the front driveshaft off quicker. Even my ¼ drive shallow well socket and ratchet was pretty tight between the head of the bolt and the front output yoke, one it backed off a few turns there was not enough space and it had to be turned by finger strength. It was slow and a bit frustrating. (The rear is as easy as putting your groceries in the backseat) To rotate your front DS to get to bolts that may be on the top side, jack up the front axle, and get your friend and yourself to spin the front tires the SAME direction. Unless you are locked or have an LSD one person spinning a tire = opposite rotation of the other and no driveshaft rotation. (just incase some of us did not know that) TC should be in neutral.

When lifting the TC up to the transmission, put the TC in Part Time mode beforehand. This will allow you to turn the front output yoke and thus turn the input shaft of the TC which you can use to help mate the splines and slide right in. If the splines are not mated you cannot slide the TC into the transmission, and too much messing around will get you and your helper frustrated while hoisting this heavy hunk of metal above your head / chest in an awkward position

Fill your case with fluid. I used ATF I had lying around, Phil used 5w30 motor oil and it works well for him.

Definitely get a helper for adjusting the shifter linkage!

Hope this helps anyone in conjunction with the other write-ups out there!
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Unread 02-15-2006, 02:51 PM   #4
ArloGuthroJeep
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Nice writeup Tim
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Unread 02-15-2006, 02:53 PM   #5
Teds98Grand
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wow this is awesome!!

Perfect for my next project!

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Unread 02-15-2006, 02:59 PM   #6
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Good writeup.

But you shouldnt have to remove the crossmember for the transmission.
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Unread 02-15-2006, 03:26 PM   #7
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Since Tim mentioned it, the reason I use AMSoil 5W30 is because George Kreppian from Transfer Cases Unlimited (remember the TC raffle for members?) built my 242 and he swears on the AMSOil 5W30. Now you do have to change it more than ATF but George says TCs don't like ATF and he's spent his life between the axles. He may know more about TCs than anyone in the US.

Tim, great job!! Awesome GC you continue to improve!! See you in May if not sooner!
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Unread 02-15-2006, 03:26 PM   #8
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The removal of the crossmember allows one to lower the tranny a bit to get at the top bolt. Untill I get super-strength-spagetti-hands, I will have to make as much room as possible It also allowed me greater access to the shifter linkage, removing the front DS and the such.

Glad you guys are enjoying it

Dare I say it was fun

*EDIT*
OH yeah, I meant to mention that George recommended it, not that Phil just thows motor-oil around willy-nilly!

You bet Phil! Gettin' ready for a Grand Slam packed spring/summer!
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Unread 02-15-2006, 04:18 PM   #9
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Good Job Tim.. Where is the finished pic of it in 2WD???


Something like this...
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Unread 02-15-2006, 04:36 PM   #10
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Okay, I have (yet another) stupid question. Once the swap is done, obviously the truck now has more options (2, 4full, 4 part, and 4 low I believe). The lever only had three positions. How does one know what gear you're in? Is it just by feel, or is there a trim plate with the corresponding settings? Are there issues with the linkage and the lever?

Wonderful writeup, great pics, BTW
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Unread 02-15-2006, 04:40 PM   #11
ArloGuthroJeep
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Get a new shifter bezel to replace the old and that fixes that problem
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Unread 02-15-2006, 05:08 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickd.
Okay, I have (yet another) stupid question. Once the swap is done, obviously the truck now has more options (2, 4full, 4 part, and 4 low I believe). The lever only had three positions. How does one know what gear you're in? Is it just by feel, or is there a trim plate with the corresponding settings? Are there issues with the linkage and the lever?

Wonderful writeup, great pics, BTW
Currently your shift lever only has 3 positions........it's limited by the positions available in your tcase.......after the swap....the bezel may only show 3 positions but the tcase will have 4....and of course after you change the bezel....they'll match
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Unread 02-15-2006, 05:29 PM   #13
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very nice work on the swap and write-up

I can confirm that George suggests the use of 5w-30 in the tcase. I just got the email with the tracking number and instructions for the 231 I ordered from him!
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Unread 02-15-2006, 05:38 PM   #14
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@Carl: Well, to tell you the truth I was a little weary of doing that with the D35c out back As soon as I get a beefier axle, I'll get some pictures Swampy style! I did find some ice to varify 2WD was working! Yeah, a one wheel-peel on ice is JU but what can I say

@rickd, I got a 242 ZJ shifter bezel from a guy on MichiganJeepers.com, but he was acutally from Illinois so go figure! You can also 'feel' when the TC shifts into each mode seperately. That is how I messed around with it on the bench, put a 9/16 wrench on it, and turned the input shaft to examine if every selection was working properly.

For those who may be wondering, I did not mess with the wires behing the VIC, when I put it in low, the VIC lit up the LO light, and my service 4WD switch didn't come on nagging the crap out of me so I did not feel like messing with anything.

I almost got stuck last night in 2WD in my driveway, it was great
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Unread 02-15-2006, 10:04 PM   #15
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awsome write up! thanks for all the good info! Im going to go and get my 231 this weekend, going to pull it off of an old cherokee.

i have question guys. if i use the 231 from the cherokee to put onto my zj now,

a) will the rear drive shaft have to be shortened? and

b) will the slplines match up? or can i take the ones off of my 249 tc. ive never had any experience with this so any help will be great! thanks guys!!
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