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Unread 10-24-2009, 06:22 PM   #1
Kramer H
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247 to 242HD swap questions

Okay ladies and gents, i have a few questions about the 242hd swap i am about to take on. the t-case was pulled out of a 2001 wj with the 4.7

1) is the linkage and the prndl switch/sensor that came on the t-case (242hd) going to be the ones i use?

2) fluid type i should be using?

3) can i take a 32spline slip yoke out of something and mate it to the D/S that came with my 247 and will it be the correct length/spline count to work?

4) t-case has 70k on it, should i rebuild before i put it in? if so, how hard it is?

in the picture below, one of the studs that mates the t-case to the trans is bent to heck, and the are 6 threaded holes but one 4 studs? is this normal or am i missing two? are these something that i can get from jeep for a decent price?




does anyone have the right d/s if my frankenshaft wont work? thanks guys!!

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Last edited by Kramer H; 10-24-2009 at 06:56 PM..
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Unread 10-24-2009, 06:39 PM   #2
Bama_WJ
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Sensor should be the same.

Use ATF4 in there.

Don't know about 3.

I wouldn't think a case with 90k would need a rebuild. Install and make a decision from there.

There should be 6 studs. Just take some out of your 247 and put them on the 242.
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Unread 10-24-2009, 07:46 PM   #3
Kramer H
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hmm, ok, are there any tricks i should know before installing??
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Unread 10-24-2009, 10:04 PM   #4
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well do you know if that t-case has the same input shaft as your 247?
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Unread 10-24-2009, 10:15 PM   #5
Kramer H
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the t-case came out of a 4.7 so i am assuming it does?
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02 Cummins. It has a smoking problem, And it wont quit.
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Unread 10-24-2009, 10:17 PM   #6
mrtosh
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Found this in the FAQ section. Might help. Looking to do the same swap myself.
Submitted by Nierace

1999-04 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ Quadra-Trac/Quadra-Drive to Selec-Trac
(NP247 -> NP242HD)



Parts needed:

242HD (Only found in 2002-03 V8 grand Cherokees with Selec-Trac)
Matching drive shaft out of a 2002-03 V8 WJ with Selec-Trac
2 quarts of ATF +4

Optional:
Shifter assembly from a WJ with Selec-Trac
Mopar Part number: 52109671AB

If you have a 1999-2001 WJ, you might have a CV joint at the transfer case instead of a u-joint. In this case you will need to also find a donor shaft out of a 02+ V8 Grand Cherokee, or swap your old output to the new transfer case. The u-joint setup is much better and highly recommended however.


Tools needed:

1/4” Ratchet set
Short 1/4“ extension
14mm or 9/16” deep socket
14mm or 9/16” regular socket
14mm or 9/16” wrench (ratcheting wrench highly recommended)
12mm regular socket
8mm regular socket
10mm Allen key
Pliers
Slotted screw driver
Lock-tite
Oil bucket
Floor jack
Jack stands (optional)



NP247 Removal:

1.) Depending on the rig you are working on you may or may not want to put it on jack stands.
a. If you have a 4” lift you will have enough room to work underneath on level ground, if not I would recommend putting it on stands.
b. Putting it on stands will also make it easier to take off the drive shafts.

2.) Once on stands and you have a transfer case skid plate, you will need to remove it. The stock one uses 3 bolts on the cross member, and 2 on the unibody.

3.) You will now need to drain the transfer case fluid.
a. Place your oil bucket below the drain plug.
b. Using a 10mm Allen key remove the fill and drain plugs.
c. Clean them and put them some where safe.

Diagram 1.1:


4.) While the transfer case drains remove the rear drive shaft.
a. Using a 1/4“ ratchet, extension and 8mm socket, remove the bolts and the straps on the universal joint at the differential end of the rear drive shaft. Place them in a safe place.
b. Use a mallet if needed to knock the u-joint out of the yoke on the rear differential.
c. Once freed pull the drive shaft out of the slip yoke end of the transfer case. Place some where safe, though it will not be re-used.

5.) Remove the front drive shaft.
a. Using a 1/4“ ratchet and 12mm regular socket remove the bolts from the front output of the transfer case to the drive shaft.
b. Use a mallet if needed to knock the u-joint out of the yoke at the transfer case.
c. Once free you can rest the drive shaft on the cross member as you will be re-using it.

Diagram 1.2:



6.) Lower the cross member so that you have room to work.
a. Use a floor jack to support the center of the cross member, jack it up so there is some pressure on the floor jack.
b. Remove the bolts.
- Use 15mm socket on the bolts.
- I have Claytons LA’s, so I use 14mm sock and wrench.
- Place the bolts/nuts in a safe location.
c. Carefully Lower the cross member 1-2” ***Do not drop it lower***

Diagram 1.3:


7.) Remove shifter lever cable and bracket.
a. Pop the cable end off of the lever at the transfer case, you should be able to use your hands, if not use a slotted screw driver to pry it off.
b. Using 14mm socket remove 3 bolts located on driver side on the transmission. (Diagram 1.4)
c. Using a large wrench, put the bottom jaw on the bottom of the bracket, then the top jaw on the lip of the spring clamp holding the cable in the bracket. Apply pressure and it will pop right off. (Diagram 1.5)
d. Put the cable through the bottom hole, then put the spring clamp back on.

Diagram 1.4:


Diagram 1.5 - In original position:


Diagram 1.6 – In new position:


8.) Remove transfer case nuts.
a. Clean off the showing thread and soak in penetrating oil or WD40.
b. Use a combination of the 14mm deep socket, regular socket and ratcheting wrench.
c. The reason you will need the short sockets is there is not much room once you start to unthread the nuts on some of them. So you need to swap out or it will get stuck and you wont be able to get the wrench/socket out.
d. Be very patient as you will be doing a lot of 1 click ratcheting.
e. Clean the nuts thoroughly.

9.) Once the bolts are out, remove the transfer case. Having another person would be helpful, it weighs 80lbs so you should be able to manage it on your own. Place in a safe place.
a. Check your transmission output seal and replace if needed.
b. Check your breather tube to make sure its not split, if it is, cut off the split section and connect a new piece.

Diagram 1.7:



NP242HD Installation:

1.) Lift up and line up the 242HD with the bolt holes in the transmission mount.
a. You may need to rotate the input of the transfer case to line up with the transmission for it to slide in.
b. Once all the way in, it will be able to support its on weight.
c. Put the transfer case nuts back on, and use anti-seize.

2.) Once the transfer case is in position, bolt the shifter cable bracket back up.
a. Reinstall the 3 14mm bolts.
b. Clip the end of the cable onto the transfer case shifter, you may need to use a pair of pliers to pop it on.

3.) Bolt the cross member back up. Torque the 15mm bolts to 30-34ft lbs

4.) Reconnect the front drive shaft. Apply lock tite on the 12mm bolts then tighten.

5.) Connect the new rear drive shaft.
a. Slide the transfer case end into the slip yoke. You may need to rotate it so the splines match up.
b. Place the differential end back in the yoke, put the u-joint straps on, apply lock-tite to the 8mm bolt then tighten.

6.) Drain any remaining oil in the NP242HD.
a. Place your oil bucket below the drain plug.
b. Using a 10mm Allen key remove the fill and drain plugs.
c. Let what ever is in it drain out, then reinstall the drain plug.
d. Now use 2 quarts of ATF+4 to fill the transfer case.
e. Reinstall the fill plug

Diagram 1.8:



7.) Reinstall skid plate.

8.) Remove jack stands.


Notes:

I used a sticker instead of switching out the shifter assembly, since you can use your old one without a problem.

Expect to spend approximately 4-8 hrs to complete this swap.
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Unread 10-24-2009, 10:21 PM   #7
Kramer H
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Mrtosh, i found the same write up a few hours ago after i had posted haha, but thank you very much, i guess i will be doing this tomorrow morning! just gonna sit till i figure out the driveshaft solution. cheaper the better haha
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Unread 10-24-2009, 10:28 PM   #8
mrtosh
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After reading through the FAQ post I just posted above, I have a few questions as well. I'm guessing any of the 242 HD's out of a '02/'03 should work spline wise? The only DS needed afterwards is the rear? I already have a U-joint setup on my front DS. Is the 242 any bigger than the 247? Is there gonna be an issue w/mounting the TC? Lastly aren't you supposed to put some type of RTV where the tranny meets the TC?
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Unread 10-24-2009, 10:57 PM   #9
Kramer H
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i did find a discrepancy in some of what was stated in that write up, but its still a GREAT writeup. i pulled a 242hd out of an 01, so the 242hd is available (as far as i know) from 01-03 wj's with the 4.7l v8 (not sure if there was a 242hd that came out of the 4.0 inline 6 or not) you will need a different driveshaft due to the 247 being a 27? 29? spline and the 242hd being a 32 spline. as far as i know they mount up the same, i have not seen anything tell me otherwise, and im sure some rvt will be required at some point in the install, if a mopar gasket is not offered.
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02 Cummins. It has a smoking problem, And it wont quit.
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Unread 10-25-2009, 01:10 AM   #10
QuadraTokn
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the HD drive shaft is also shorter, because of the longer t-case tail housing.
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Unread 10-25-2009, 01:14 AM   #11
Kramer H
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuadraTokn View Post
the HD drive shaft is also shorter, because of the longer t-case tail housing.
wouldnt happen to have one laying around do you? you still have the 242 shifter and a third brake light (tried to niteshade the one i have, but no matter how much i sand it down, it has cracks in it (mini ones) and i just cant get them out. do you have one in real good shape? pm me
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Built Beater 01 WJ MY BUILD THREAD
Swapped, SUPERCHARGED Locked, Lifted and Long Armed.
02 Cummins. It has a smoking problem, And it wont quit.
K8 GSXR 1000- Racefit,Comp Werks,Puig,Woodcraft,B2 Industries,55W HID'S, R&G Engineering, Two brothers, ASV, DDM, "The pantie dropper"
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Unread 12-10-2013, 06:54 PM   #12
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Sorry to bring up an old thread but I got some questions... if I have the varilock front and rear and do this, then I should be able to keep my varilock limited slips and be able to have selectable 2wd, 4wd hi and low, and whatever other selections the 242 has right? And I should be able to lock in 4wd with it shifting power side to side instead of front to back with the side to side?
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