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242 Fill Plug Is Stuck!!

2K views 25 replies 12 participants last post by  tetatdo 
#1 ·
Trying to add some fluid to my 242, I _cannot_ for the life of me get the top fill bolt to come out! Tried with a 30mm socket, tried heating it and banging on it with a long 30 mm wrench and a mallot. All I am doing is stripping it.

How do you get this damn thing off?!
 
#2 ·
At this age they don't tend to come out easy. Heat helps, patience.
 
#6 ·
Early cases are 30mm, late style are 10mm allen.
 
#7 ·
Since steel and aluminum don't like each other those plugs will often seize/corrode in. I've always taken a sharp razor knife and gone around the plug right where the threads are to cut through the fine crust. Believe this may help the rust cutter penetrate better.

I've also used heat around the plug but you have to watch you don't start melting the aluminum. Once hot I'll also shock it with some PB but try not to breath that smoke. Have had to go back forth heating/rust cutter a few times when seized real bad. Good luck.
 
#8 ·
..and when you re-install after (hopefully) getting the fill plug off, be sure to coat the treads with anti-seize or copper paste. Also, do NOT overtighten. The fill plug doesn't need to be tightened much at all, basically just enough so it won't unthread by itself.
 
#9 ·
thanks for all the tips, guys! I ended up putting the ol' ZJ into long term storage yesterday, next time I need to drive it, I'll try using all your tips to get it loose.
 
#12 ·
man i tried EVERYTHING, it wont work!! It is now completely stripped. I even tried a monkey wrench, cant get around the fill hole, too many other protrusions. What to do?
 
#15 ·
The plug had started stripping when you started this thread and was it a 12pt 30mm socket you were using rather than 6pt? I didn't even like the small bevel on the 6pt impact socket I bought and ground the nose of the socket off flat since know that nut grip on the plug doesn't stick out very far.

If you know somebody with a portable welder they may be able to tack weld a nut on the current plug if it doesn't harm the aluminum case.

Or like MurdaJs mentioned fill it through the vent hole in the top of the case. Capacity is 1 1/2 qts for the 242 and most use ATF+4. At least you could drive it and take it to a shop to get the plug out if that's your last option. Good luck.
 
#16 ·
If you know somebody with a portable welder they may be able to tack weld a nut on the current plug if it doesn't harm the aluminum case.
This is exactly what I'd do. Plug is large enough to easily weld a 1/2" nut (IIRC it uses a 3/4" socket size) onto it. Do not just tack weld, get the nut red-hot. Immediately after welding crank the plug loose. The amount of heat produced shouldn't harm the aluminum at all. Preferably use impact (air or electric) - or a long T- handle and whack on the end of it sharply with a 5lbs. hammer.

Or like MurdaJs mentioned fill it through the vent hole in the top of the case. Capacity is 1 1/2 qts for the 242 and most use ATF+4. At least you could drive it and take it to a shop to get the plug out if that's your last option. Good luck.
This is the second- best option, if welder isn't available. Kinda pain to do it this way though :D
 
#17 ·
Yeah, a welder is the best option.

Grab a 1/2" nut, put it in position and then fill the sucker with wire, nice and hot. Crank down on it while it's still warm.
 
#18 ·
So I have a major leak somewhere on my t/c. It's not the rear tail shaft seal. Since I had that completely replaced. The droplets for on the lowest point of the case, but I cant.. For the life of me.. tell where it's comign from. I think it's the prop shaft seal. The leak is getting quite bad. Like, a fist sized puddle overnight.

Any one have any suggestions to find out where it's leaking from? Should I just get the entire unit rebuilt?
 
#19 ·
Could be the transmission output seal, it'll seep out from between the transmission and TC flanges, and can look like a TC leak since they use the same fluid. It's an easy seal to change once you've removed the TC, and having the TC out will help you deal with the fill plug anyway.
 
#20 ·
I would try some stuff called at205 you can buy on amazon for around 10 bucks. I never use anything that is called stop leak but this is not the same thing as most stop leaks either turn your seals to mush which helps for a bit till that completely blow out or they thicken which is not good either. this stuff turns hard seals back to rubber and works in motors, tans, diff, transfer case, and hydraulic systems. I first used it on a honda civic that had about 200,000 miles with a rear main seal leak that was pretty much pouring out constant where i was putting about 2 qts a week in the motor. put a bottle of this stuff in it and let it run a couple mins and I literally watched as the oil leak slowed to a drip and then stopped. I am at 270,000 now and use it as a beater but I never have to put oil in between oil changes. I have used it a few other places including my jeep and while it does not always work completely it normally at least slows the leak. it wont fix tears or leak from things like cork gaskets but it has worked well in a lot of things for me it slowed my jeep rear main seal leak and stopped my front diff leak and has never hurt anything i put it in. looks like water when you pour it in.
 
#22 ·
Just curious if you were ever able to remove your TC fill plug?

It's probably the rear trans seal leaking as CatSplat mentioned since your TC would be toast with a bad leak after 1 1/2 months. And you should be able to tell if the trans is leaking by having to add ATF4 if it's low on the dipstick. Don't let either run low on fluid or you will be looking at a pricey rebuild.
 
#23 ·
no, I gave up on trying to take it out, I ended up refilling it from the vent hole up top. It could be the trans, but the trans was a factory reman and has maybe like 50k miles on it..
 
#24 ·
to weld a nut on the fill plug for the 242, are there any special (even basic) precautions i need to worry about? Do i need to disconnect the battery?

my neighbor has a welder and i wanna ask if he'll do it
 
#25 ·
Not really, just use the earthclamp directly on the nut that way the current used to weld will go the shortest distance between the metal and ground.
Electricity is just as lazy as us humans, if it can go the shortest route it will.
But i would disconnect the battery anyways just to be safe, dont want to fry anything by mistake..
 
#26 ·
well, i finally confirmed the source of the leak. You guys were right. it is coming between the trans and TC, willing to bet its the trans out put.

I loosened up 2 of the bolts from trans/tc and fluid came GUSHING out...... Looks like i have the fun job of pulling the TC and changing some seals...

Wondering if i should do it and suffer or just pay someone...any idea how much it would cost?
 
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