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Unread 01-15-2009, 07:02 AM   #1
FentonWJ
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2004 WJ 
 
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2004 GC- Interior lights stuck on, power windows quit working

Last night all the interior lights in my Jeep stayed on after starting and driving my Jeep home from work. Also, all the power windows, and both mirrors quit working. The doors will only lock/unlock with my keyless remote.

I disconnected my battery for a few minutes and now the interior lights won't work at all and the windows/ locks still won't operate.

I live in St. Louis and we had a really cold day and night...could the weather have affected something?

Any advice on where to look for the problem?

Thanks in advance...

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Unread 01-15-2009, 07:38 AM   #2
nierace
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Sounds like a problem with the sensors in the door possibly? Do the door locks/power windows work on the passenger window ?

Check for bad fuses ?
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Unread 01-15-2009, 07:49 AM   #3
VulcanJeep
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This could be related to broken wires in the harness from the door to the body, which flex every time you open the door. Most likely in the driver's door, but check both doors. Sometimes a wire can fracture inside the insulation, and still appear intact, so check for "wimpy" wires that may be broken internally.
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Unread 01-15-2009, 07:51 AM   #4
FentonWJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nierace View Post
Sounds like a problem with the sensors in the door possibly? Do the door locks/power windows work on the passenger window ?

Check for bad fuses ?

I checked the switches for the windows/locks on all the other doors and they won't work either.

Haven't checked the fuse panel yet because...well...becasue it's -1 outside right now. I'll check it on my lunch break and see if there are any blown fuses.

Any other suggestions out there?
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Unread 01-15-2009, 07:53 AM   #5
FentonWJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VulcanJeep View Post
This could be related to broken wires in the harness from the door to the body, which flex every time you open the door. Most likely in the driver's door, but check both doors. Sometimes a wire can fracture inside the insulation, and still appear intact, so check for "wimpy" wires that may be broken internally.
Thanks, I'll check that this weekend. This does sound possible just because of the cold weather.
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Unread 01-15-2009, 06:14 PM   #6
rammanriley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VulcanJeep View Post
This could be related to broken wires in the harness from the door to the body, which flex every time you open the door. Most likely in the driver's door, but check both doors. Sometimes a wire can fracture inside the insulation, and still appear intact, so check for "wimpy" wires that may be broken internally.
I bet thats your problem, had a guy come into the shop i work at with a 04 and the ground wire and the orange with black tracer were broken in the black conduit that goes from the door to the body. good luck
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Unread 01-16-2009, 12:38 AM   #7
jasonb8292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FentonWJ View Post
Last night all the interior lights in my Jeep stayed on after starting and driving my Jeep home from work. Also, all the power windows, and both mirrors quit working. The doors will only lock/unlock with my keyless remote.

I disconnected my battery for a few minutes and now the interior lights won't work at all and the windows/ locks still won't operate.

I live in St. Louis and we had a really cold day and night...could the weather have affected something?

Any advice on where to look for the problem?

Thanks in advance...
The same thing happened to me on my 1999 WJ. It was a broken wire going from the drivers door to the body. once i fixed the wire my windows and door switches work as when i first bought my jeep.
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Unread 01-16-2009, 07:49 AM   #8
FentonWJ
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Thanks again guys.

What is the best way to remove the rubber boot between the body and the door?
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Unread 01-17-2009, 08:58 AM   #9
nierace
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Tug on it
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Unread 02-13-2009, 08:53 AM   #10
MuddyV8YJ
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I am working on this issue today. I have the ground and orange/white wire broken in the hose between the door and body. How they heck are you getting enough room to repair/replace the wires? Is there a plug on the inside to remove and get more slack?
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Unread 02-13-2009, 09:18 AM   #11
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Unread 02-16-2009, 07:58 AM   #12
twmattox
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I have this issue too ('04 WJ). I plan on removing the door to gain access. Any recommendations on how to splice in the replacement wire? Solder? Crimp connectors? Something else I don't know about???
Thanks
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Unread 02-16-2009, 11:22 AM   #13
dickster
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I was forced to investigate mine yesterday as my daughter managed to get one of the rear windows down and i couldn't lift it! I lifted the rubber boot (door end) and sure enough the black ground wire was completely severed (a nice clean cut?!!). One other wire had insulation that was split. I joined the ground temporarily with a block connector and all was working again.

I spoke to the dealer today about a new harness and was told its a major job so they just solder the wires. They said to keep the soldered joint short so it remains as flexible as possible. Use heat shrink to cover. You can pull the rubber boot right back towards the chassis for access, or undo the harness the door end.

I'll do mine soon, good luck.

Rich
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Unread 02-16-2009, 05:32 PM   #14
michiganmaveric
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I replaced the harness in my XJ and it wasn't too bad of a job. The only thing I hated was the cost, $245, and then the Jeep was totaled the following weekend.
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Unread 02-18-2009, 02:21 PM   #15
volkerm
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I had the same problem with the orange/white and black wires on the driver's side. First, disconnect the battery and isolate the ground (black wire/connector) so it can't touch the battery post. Then, pull back the rubber boot from the door connector, and push up toward the body as much as you can, exposing all the wiring. Gently pull all the slack for the broken wires so that they're fairly taut from the body to the break (they attach to the module under the dash by your left knee when driving). Unplug the connector that that attaches at the driver's door. You'll now have just about enough room to work if you're slow and patient. I got some 12 ga. insulated wire at Radio Shack, along with some heat-shrink tubing. I then stripped about 3/8 - 1/2 inch of each broken wire. Next, I made a splice-wire from the 12 ga I bought at RS, and stripped each end. If you can work with a piece about 1"-2" long, that'd be ideal ... no longer (I wanted to splice in some extra length to ensure any any stress from opening the door in the future would NOT be on my new joints). Cut some right-sized heat-shrink tube, and slide it over the original wire, and up out of the way. If you can, separate the copper strands of each wire a bit, then push the ends together to get them to mesh. Then solder the splice in place at each end, and for each wire. You might need a helper, or some alligator clips to hold things while you work the solder and soldering iron. Once you have the splices done, pull the heat shrink tubing over the wire, and heat to seal. Re-connect the door connector; push the newly spliced wires up into the body a bit to ensure they're not to taut/stressed; then pull the boot back over the wires and connector. Reconnect the battery, and you're done!

Taking your time to be careful, it could take a couple of hours.
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