2002 WJ won't start, one ckick, three beeps, three beeps, flashing check engine lamp - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 15 Old 06-03-2009, 01:05 AM Thread Starter
OverlandScott
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2002 WJ won't start, one ckick, three beeps, three beeps, flashing check engine lamp

This 2002 has been sitting in enclosed storage for a year and when I went to check on it today the battery was dead.

Bought a new 850 CCA group 65 battery, made April 2009, cleaned the cables and installed nice and tight.

Key opens the door, but keyless remote does not open or lock doors. Replaced the two 2016 3V batteries in the fob and tried pushing the unlock and lock buttons multiple times (no response). Set the overhead console to flash lights and honk horn, still no response with remote buttons. Key immobilizer light on dash goes through normal diagnostics when key turned to on but goes out like all others, expect check engine lamp.

All lights and radio are working fine, the windows roll up and down at normal speeds (not slow like a weak battery).

When I attempt to start it clicks once, the chime beeps three times, pause, and chimes three times. All lamps on dash go out after diagnostics (including the immobilizer light), but the check engine flashes and continues to flash at a steady rate.

Used a scanner and reading no error codes (connected several times, checked with key on run, accessory, and off just to make sure).

When the Jeep was parked last year it was running and didn't have a start problem. Any ideas? I'm an older gearhead (including modern V8 cars) but haven't owned a Jeep.

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post #2 of 15 Old 06-03-2009, 02:42 AM
UrbanOffRoad124
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If you turn your key to the run position three times quickly, it should read out a trouble code on the display. Thats if there is a trouble code being stored. You don't need a scanner. I have access to ALL DATA, a mechanics software that will tell you most codes a well as diagnostic steps to determine where the problem resides. Did you just put the battery in? Have you tried charging it or jumping it just to see if its cold cranking amps just isn't enough to start it even if it has good voltage? Let me know if you get a trouble code and I can help you out. It should look like "P1202" or "P703"


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post #3 of 15 Old 06-03-2009, 08:03 AM
Double E
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It does still sound like power is not enough to crank. The clicks are what tells me that, but I'm not sold on that either...
Dead battery is no surprise. I would have taken it out myself.

I think I might disconnect the new battery one more time for a few mins and then re-connect and see what you get, if no joy, you might consider jumping it as not all batteries get a full charge when new.

I assume that you've been keeping it in a sealed area where no critters have been chewing up wire insulation and it was not 95 below zero, right?

'04 Freedom Edition HO & '04 Overland HO (previous '00 Laredo 4.7)
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post #4 of 15 Old 06-03-2009, 09:15 AM
oldfamilyguy
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I'm with the posters so far, first place to check is the battery/connections and try a jump start. then see if the engine will move with wrench on crankshaft just in case its seized somehow. If thats all good, then the starter, maybe just stuck a bit. give it a few gentle whacks with a rubber mallet. also maybe the connection between the cable and starter got corroded. its a pita though, I think you have to lower the starter to get at the connection, not much room to turn a wrench, air ratchet makes it way quicker and easier on knuckles.
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post #5 of 15 Old 06-03-2009, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
OverlandScott
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Thanks for the quick replies. It's a relatives vehicle that is over in the middle east so trying to help out and move it to a different location or buy it outright if I can get it running.

Hoped the three beeps (chimes), pause, and three beeps then flashing check engine lamp was an obvious indicator but could not find anything related on Google or Forum searches.

It's in a new, very clean, sealed storage unit by itself (no boxes or anything else was stored in it, no food left in the Jeep). I did crawl under and looked in the engine compartment, I couldn't find any signs of obvious chewed wires but that doesn't mean there isn't.

Now that I think about it the volt meter gauge was showing above red but not up to 14V (mid). Where do you guys normally see the gauge at before starting and in the run position on 98-04 WJs?

I'll try disconnecting the battery, confirming the cables are clean, reconnecting, jumping with another car, tapping on the starter, and confirm starter wiring tonight. Also will see if it comes up with any codes on the dash but I've already used a handheld scanner on the diagostics port.
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post #6 of 15 Old 06-03-2009, 10:01 AM
gatorayde
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My gauge is at about 1/4-1/3 (if it were like a fuel gauge kind of) when I first start it then a few seconds after it's running it goes up to 1/2. Check for codes too, take the key and go: Run (don't start it) > off > run > off > run and leave it there and look at the odometer. If there are no codes, it will say "done", if there are, it will list them off such as "Pxxx".
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post #7 of 15 Old 06-03-2009, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
OverlandScott
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OK that's where this gauge was sitting, about 1/3 up (45 degrees or so) but not up to the mid point. Thanks for that gatorayde, like I said I've never owned a Jeep, just driven then on a rare occasion over the past few decades (rentals).
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post #8 of 15 Old 06-03-2009, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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Got the key less entry to work tonight, must have been a sync issue, only took a few locks/unlocks for it to respond. Was very happy.

Then I attempted to fix the no crank issue (only get a single click down at starter).

I cleaned the cables and reconnected them to the new battery. No dice.

I tried jumping it with the car, no change. Confirmed the voltage gauge was reading closer to 14 than 9 on dash.

I checked the relays and fuses, all looked good. Swapped some of the less critical ones with starter and ignition (same rating), no change.

I tapped the starter, no change, tapped it while the key was turned to start, no change.

Did the key on/off/on/off/on and received a very quick DONE on the odometer LED, no codes.

Checked the cables on the starter, they are all tight and appear to not have been removed since factory install (no scraps or marks on the nut before checking).

Think I might be at the point of starter R&R or any other recommendations?
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post #9 of 15 Old 06-04-2009, 12:24 AM
fast_man58
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auto shut down relay perhaps?

seems kind of random, i know. but check that, along with any and all other fuses/relays.

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post #10 of 15 Old 06-04-2009, 10:42 AM
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if you hear the click at the starter it means power is getting there and the solenoid switch is engaging. so why doesn't the starter motor turn, that is the question. it could simply be a bad connection, just because it looks good from the outside, there could be corrosion in the connection that you can't see until you remove the nut that holds the cable. I have had this myself. If not that, it could be the starter itself. The only test is to take it out and bench test it or swap in a known good one. Of course if the engine is seized, the stater can't turn it no matter how good.
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post #11 of 15 Old 06-04-2009, 11:31 AM
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I'm with OFG. Is it possible to get a socket or wrench on the crank of these 4.7 engines to see if it will turn at all?

Sitting that long "should" not necessarily be a reason for it to be siezed but maybe it's just long enough for the piston rings to have settled in and combined with a little oxidation on the piston walls...I suppose it's possible.

One concern would be why the valves did not close up tight as the hydraulic lifters lost pressure (they are hydraulic, right?).

Just for giggles, check the dipstick for anything unusual and pull a plug or 2 from each side of the block. If you can, shine a light down the hole and see if there's anything unusual in there. I know with the coil packs and the general inacessibility of the plug tube, it will be tough to do but it's worth a shot before replacing parts. (the started is no picnic from what I hear on these threads.)

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post #12 of 15 Old 06-04-2009, 11:49 AM
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try to turn the crank to see if its seized thats what I suggested before. I think its easy enough to get a wrench on it, you might need the fan shroud off. mine isn't here right now or I'd have a look at it. also getting the starter out isn't too bad, but an air ratchet makes it way easier, not much room to turn a wrench by hand
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post #13 of 15 Old 06-04-2009, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again for the continued ideas and help.

It's sitting in a storage unit without power and I only have hand tools so I'm going to replace the battery cable connections on both ends to make sure they aren't corroded internally/behind the covering. Also will try to turn the crank with a breaker bar.

The top of the old battery did have some corrosion so it could be behind external visual inspection. If that fixes it I'll replace the cables and temp ends with better quality wiring - have been reading through the forum about doing such.
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post #14 of 15 Old 06-04-2009, 01:18 PM
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I forgot say before, no lifters. its overhead cams
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post #15 of 15 Old 06-04-2009, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OverlandScott View Post
Thanks again for the continued ideas and help.

It's sitting in a storage unit without power and I only have hand tools so I'm going to replace the battery cable connections on both ends to make sure they aren't corroded internally/behind the covering. Also will try to turn the crank with a breaker bar.

The top of the old battery did have some corrosion so it could be behind external visual inspection. If that fixes it I'll replace the cables and temp ends with better quality wiring - have been reading through the forum about doing such.
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldfamilyguy View Post
I forgot say before, no lifters. its overhead cams
It does have hydraulic lash adjusters though that can slowly collapse.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldfamilyguy View Post
try to turn the crank to see if its seized thats what I suggested before. I think its easy enough to get a wrench on it, you might need the fan shroud off. mine isn't here right now or I'd have a look at it. also getting the starter out isn't too bad, but an air ratchet makes it way easier, not much room to turn a wrench by hand

Alot of folks suggest putting a few teaspoons of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder and letting it sit for a fw days on a lotor that has sat any length of time to loosen the rings if they are corroded. After sitting for a few days, turn the engine over gently with no plugs to ensure nothing is stuck and to blow the mystery oil out. Then put the plugs in and fire it up.

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