[GS Audio]

I'm struggling with who to let do this service. I have a local Valvoline shop willing to do the work with fluids I provide. One Jeep dealer told me $220 for both front and rear diff service (can wait for Jeep as they said would be about an hour).

I this write-up online:

Jeep Axle Differential Fluid Change Service

Seems pretty thorough and something I could do.

Now the question about fluid type comes in......

Stick to OEM Mopar or can I use something else?

If not OEM, was thinking of this Royal Purple 75w140 Max Gear. Says Limited Slip additive is in this fluid, so no need to add any additional.

This is so confusing......hope one of you guys can help me figure this out. What have you guys done to your Jeeps for this service?

Thanks!

[cmonson]

most 75-140 synthetic gear lubes have the friction modifier already in them. Most people with a limited slip diff don't have an issue with the already contained modifiers, however some report binding at turns.

I would just use the 75-140 and do some tight turns and see. If it binds, then go to Jeep and pick up the 4oz bottle.

As for the Diff service, just don't take it anywhere.

In order to do the job properly, you have to remove the diff covers, drain the fluid, clean the inside of the pumpkin, verify wear on the ring and pinion, install the diff cover, fill up with gear lube.

Most shops will just pump out the old diff fluid from the fill hole (there is no drain hole), so you never get the crud out on the bottom of the pumpkin. To me what is the point of new fluid, when you never get the dirty fluid fully evacuated. Your just wasting your money.

I prefer the mobil 1 75-140LS at about $20/qt but to each his own. Each diff will probably takes about 1 hour to service, so you can see why the dealer charges what they do.

In my opinion, if you don’t want to do the job yourself I would take it into a dealer you can trust and have them do it at the cost of $220.

[GS Audio]

Originally Posted by cmonson

most 75-140 synthetic gear lubes have the friction modifier already in them. Most people with a limited slip diff don't have an issue with the already contained modifiers, however some report binding at turns.

I would just use the 75-140 and do some tight turns and see. If it binds, then go to Jeep and pick up the 4oz bottle.

As for the Diff service, just don't take it anywhere.

In order to do the job properly, you have to remove the diff covers, drain the fluid, clean the inside of the pumpkin, verify wear on the ring and pinion, install the diff cover, fill up with gear lube.

Most shops will just pump out the old diff fluid from the fill hole (there is no drain hole), so you never get the crud out on the bottom of the pumpkin. To me what is the point of new fluid, when you never get the dirty fluid fully evacuated. Your just wasting your money.

I prefer the mobil 1 75-140LS at about $20/qt but to each his own. Each diff will probably takes about 1 hour to service, so you can see why the dealer charges what they do.

In my opinion, if you don’t want to do the job yourself I would take it into a dealer you can trust and have them do it at the cost of $220.

I agree.....would rather have the dealer "do it right". I just want to ensure that for $220, I am getting to proper fluids and LS additive.....sometimes you get a quote and they try to charge extra for "special" fluids.

[tegster1]

Drain the fluid
Clean out the diff
Fill it back up
Drive away and test it out

Its pretty simple, just take a try at it. Will need some RTV and some sort of pump to get the fluid in but other than that, basic hand tools to get the cover off. Get some fluid from AMSOIL and you dont have to worry about adding anything(modifier).

This type of maintenance is always a good thing to know how to do as it will save a ton of money in the long run and lets you learn about your Jeep in the process. Im sure the Royal Purple would also work if you wanted to go with that instead.

[GS Audio]

So I decided to splurge and take the Jeep to the dealer. I asked a few folks for help and some had no time, others lacked the proper knowledge to do the work and also look over the drivetrain for any potential issues. Cost was $290, which was front and rear diffs, as well as t-case. The fluids are not cheap.....I've priced them out before and it adds up.

Service was reasonable given what the OE Mopar fluids cost, so I was content. The tech was very knowledgeable and helpful......did a great job and did not try to sell me on stuff I didn't need. The service advisor was horrible. Overheard him saying how I "must have went home and looked on the internet".....comment regarding a brake question I had, that he refused to help me with, and refused to ask the tech about, so I bypassed him and walked into the shop myself to ask. If you wanna know the dealer, email me.....I'm not going to bash anyone on here. I just won't deal with him next time. They have another service advisory as well, so I can bypass his grumpy azz.

[metalhead]

I shopped different dealers to do the fluids in diffs and transfer case. I can do it myself and will next time but with it being so cold here in pa and no garage to work in and just buying my grand cherokee I am going to have the dealer do it. $280 bucks + I need a key cut and programed along with a remote so that adds another 55 bucks.

[GS Audio]

Its not so bad. I mean, yes, its $280 you can save, but the flipside is that you don't freeze your butt and have someone doing it that has a clue about Jeeps.

[trailblaze]

it's no harder than changing motor oil. next time give it a try! you'll feel accomplished.

[horatio102]

The other nice thing about doing it yourself is you get to see just how much metal flake is in the oil and on the magnetic plug, and you know it gets cleaned off.

[quicky422]

I would do everything myself if I had the time, the place and ALL of the proper tools. I have done alot on my '92 cherokee including the differential and tranny fluid, clutch and throw-out bearing. It really wasn't that hard and I ended up doing it outside in the summer with some stands and a couple of jacks!

I really, really don't trust dealerships or some shops because as soon as you go in asking informative questions, alot of the times, they take offense to it and end up giving you sh*t or just not fullfilling your concerns.

So, you do what you can considering all of the circumstances!! I would just stick to the latest recommendations the manufacturer has for your particular set-up. That's what I'm finding out with all the reading I have done over the last couple of days. Good luck!

[GS Audio]

Originally Posted by quicky422

I would do everything myself if I had the time, the place and ALL of the proper tools. I have done alot on my '92 cherokee including the differential and tranny fluid, clutch and throw-out bearing. It really wasn't that hard and I ended up doing it outside in the summer with some stands and a couple of jacks!

I really, really don't trust dealerships or some shops because as soon as you go in asking informative questions, alot of the times, they take offense to it and end up giving you sh*t or just not fullfilling your concerns.

So, you do what you can considering all of the circumstances!! I would just stick to the latest recommendations the manufacturer has for your particular set-up. That's what I'm finding out with all the reading I have done over the last couple of days. Good luck!

Same boat here......no where to really do the work, or the time to do it.

As long as you can find a good tech at the dealer, you should be OK. I plan to go back and see if i can get him to do some side work for me.....rather pay him cash and eliminate the middleman.

[ezflip]

Quick question, somewhat on topic.

How long do you guys wait after applying the RTV and putting the cover back on before you put fluid back in and drive it around?

A few years back when I did the diffs on my ex's WJ, (first time doing them) the directions on the RTV I used said to put the cover on finger tight and let set over night. Then come back, torque it down and add fluid.

Any sense to leave it set for so long? I know its a good idea to let the RTV set to make a good seal before putting fluid in, but how long should it really take?



Oh, and to stay even more on topic, it is really easy to do. If you can change your oil, you can change the diff fluid and TC fluid. Only thing is, the diff fluid smells like S***. Depending on how long its been in there, it smells really really bad. lol

[LordHobbit]

Wow, y'all must have awful dealerships. I have found most of the guys there are very helpful and willing to answer questions. I try not to deal with the folks behind the counter though.

Originally Posted by ezflip

Quick question, somewhat on topic.

How long do you guys wait after applying the RTV and putting the cover back on before you put fluid back in and drive it around?

A few years back when I did the diffs on my ex's WJ, (first time doing them) the directions on the RTV I used said to put the cover on finger tight and let set over night. Then come back, torque it down and add fluid.

Any sense to leave it set for so long? I know its a good idea to let the RTV set to make a good seal before putting fluid in, but how long should it really take?

Hmm ... All the RTV I've used I put on a bead, torque it up, add fluid and drive away. I don't wait any. The directions don't tell me to wait any either. I tend to purchase the more expensive variety.

[kentman]

Originally Posted by ezflip

How long do you guys wait after applying the RTV and putting the cover back on before you put fluid back in and drive it around?

I wait no more than about an hour. I have never had a leak. When I start a job, I want it done as soon as possible.

[drwolcot]

just curious...... is there any body that sells the friction modifier for the lsd's other than the Jeep Dealer? went to NAPA and all the friction modifiers they had had written on the back not for use in Jeeps with Quadradrive. How much is it from the dealer?