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Unread 06-05-2009, 08:37 AM   #1
sdowney717
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 702
1998 4.0L head bolt torque pattern?

anyone have some info for torque bolt sequence?

for the torque values I am using

33 rod nuts
80 main bolts
35 brace nuts
110 head bolts except number 11 gets 100, (the one you use sealer on)
head bolts torque in stages
21 rockers

this lists a 99
http://jeephorizons.com/tech/99_40l_torque_specs.html

ok, I found this from here
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277013



found this elsewhere and updating the info.
shows the bolt numbering scheme, bolt 11 goes into water jacket and they want this torqued 10 lbs less.
looking at your head from the driverside...here is the tightening sequence (start at 1 and work your way out)

12 8 4 1 5 9 13
11 7 3 2 6 10 14

step 1...tighten all bolts to 22ft/lbs
step 2....tighten all bolts to 45 ft/lbs
step 3....recheck all bolts at 45ft/lbs
step 4...tighten all bolts except #11 to 110ft/lbs, then tighten #11 to 100ft/lbs...


Last edited by sdowney717; 06-05-2009 at 08:53 AM..
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Unread 06-05-2009, 12:44 PM   #2
4jeepers
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Lancaster, CA USA
Posts: 375
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdowney717 View Post
anyone have some info for torque bolt sequence?

for the torque values I am using

33 rod nuts
80 main bolts
35 brace nuts
110 head bolts except number 11 gets 100, (the one you use sealer on)
head bolts torque in stages
21 rockers

this lists a 99
http://jeephorizons.com/tech/99_40l_torque_specs.html

ok, I found this from here
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277013
The one you found will work!
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Unread 06-05-2009, 12:52 PM   #3
UrbanOffRoad124
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2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 133
Hope this helps, it should be everything you need, plus some. If you have any other q's let me know. Attached is the torque pattern and written in the instructions below is torque specs in the proper sequence and pattern.

1998 Jeep Truck Grand Cherokee 4WD L6-4.0L VIN S

INSTALLATION
The engine cylinder head gasket is a composition gasket. The gasket is to be installed DRY. DO NOT use a gasket sealing compound on the gasket.
If the engine cylinder head is to be replaced and the original valves used, measure the valve stem diameter. Only standard size valves can be used
with a service replacement engine cylinder head unless the replacement head valve stem guide bores are reamed to accommodate oversize valve
stems. Remove all carbon buildup and reface the valves.
1. Remove the shop towels from the cylinder bores. Coat the bores with clean engine oil.
2. Position the engine cylinder head gasket (with the numbers facing up) using the alignment dowels in the cylinder block, to position the gasket.
CAUTION: Engine cylinder head bolts should be reused only once. Replace the head bolts if they were used before or if they have a paint dab
on the top of the bolt.
3. With bolt No.14 held in place (tape around bolt), install the engine cylinder head over the same dowels used to locate the gasket. Remove the tape
from bolt No.14.
4. Coat the threads of stud bolt No.11 with Loctite 592 sealant, or equivalent.
5. Tighten the engine cylinder head bolts in sequence according to the following procedure.
CAUTION: During the final tightening sequence, bolt No.11 will be tightened to a lower torque than the rest of the bolts. DO NOT overtighten
bolt No.1 1.
(a) Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14) to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) torque.
(b) Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14) to 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(c) Cheek all bolts to verify they are set to 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(d) Tighten bolts in sequence:
- Bolts l through 10 to 149 Nm (110 ft. lbs.) torque.
- Bolt 11 to 13 Nm (100 ft. lbs.) torque.
- Bolts 12 through 14 to 149 Nm (110 ft. lbs.).
(e) Check all bolts in sequence to verify the correct torque.
(f) If not already done, clean and mark each bolt with a dab of paint after tightening. Should you encounter bolts which were painted in an earlier
service operation, replace them.
6. Install the ignition coil and bracket assembly.
7. Connect the temperature sending unit wire connector.
8. Install the spark plugs and tighten to 37 Nm (27 ft. lbs.) torque. Connect the ignition wires.
9. Install the intake and engine exhaust manifolds .
10. Install the fuel lines and the vacuum advance hose.
11. If equipped, attach the power steering pump and bracket.
12. Install the push rods, rocker arms, pivots and bridges in the order they were removed.
13. Install the engine cylinder head cover.
14. Attach the air conditioner compressor mounting bracket to the engine cylinder head and block. Tighten the bolts to 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
15. Attach the air conditioning compressor to the bracket. Tighten the bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: The serpentine drive belt must be routed correctly. Incorrect routing can cause the water pump to turn in the opposite direction
causing the engine to overheat.
16. Install the serpentine drive belt and correctly tension the belt.
17. Install the air cleaner and ducting.
18. Install the engine cylinder head cover.
19. Connect the hoses to the engine thermostat housing and fill the cooling system to the specified level.
20. The automatic transmission throttle linkage and cable must be adjusted after completing the engine cylinder head installation.
21. Install the temperature sending unit and connect the wire connector.
22. Connect the fuel line.
23. If equipped with air conditioning, install air compressor and charge A/C system.
24. Connect negative cable to battery.
25. Connect the upper radiator hose and heater hose at the engine thermostat housing.
26. Fill the cooling system. Check for leaks.
WARNING: Use extreme caution when the engine is operating. Do not stand in direct line with the fan. Do not put hands near the
pulleys, belts or fan. Do not wear loose clothing.
27. Operate the engine with the radiator cap off. Inspect for leaks and continue operating the engine until the engine thermostat opens. Add coolant, if
required.
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Last edited by UrbanOffRoad124; 06-05-2009 at 01:27 PM..
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Unread 06-05-2009, 03:15 PM   #4
sdowney717
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 702
thanks for the responses.

[QUOTE]3. With bolt No.14 held in place (tape around bolt), install the engine cylinder head over the same dowels used to locate the gasket. Remove the tape
from bolt No.14./QUOTE]

funny I have read that before. On the 98 GC, there is no problem pulling that bolt out with the head in place.

Also, why are there studs on top of so many head bolts and oil pan bolts??
they simply get in the way. I have to get a deep 12 pt socket, why do they do that?? It is bothersome.
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Unread 06-05-2009, 06:07 PM   #5
UrbanOffRoad124
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2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 133
[QUOTE=sdowney717;7355620]thanks for the responses.

Quote:
3. With bolt No.14 held in place (tape around bolt), install the engine cylinder head over the same dowels used to locate the gasket. Remove the tape
from bolt No.14./QUOTE]

funny I have read that before. On the 98 GC, there is no problem pulling that bolt out with the head in place.

Also, why are there studs on top of so many head bolts and oil pan bolts??
they simply get in the way. I have to get a deep 12 pt socket, why do they do that?? It is bothersome.
I own an '02 WJ with the 4.7 and have never pulled the head on a 4.0. I did speak with my brother who has a '88 XJ 4.0, just out of curiosity, but he's never had to pull his head either. I have access to a program called ALL DATA, it's a mechanics software that is pretty much a compilation of Chiltons and Hayens plus a bunch more. I have no personal experience with changing the head on a 4.0 but was searching the unanswered threads and figured I could get you the data you needed. Hope it helped.
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'02 WJ | 4.7HO | Limited | QDII | 3.5" Lift (BB+OME Springs) | JKS TB | JKS Quick Disco's | JKS BPE's | RC Nitro 9000's | Rusty's SS | K&N FIPK | 40 Series Delta | Cat-Delete |

Coming soon: 31" KM2's | 15x8 Cragar V-5's

Nightcrew #236 | Blue Jeep Club #232

"those who do, can't explain; those who don't, can't understand"
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Unread 02-25-2012, 12:01 PM   #6
cdn4
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1987 FSJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Hickory, Kentucky
Posts: 2
# 14 head bolt

I have a 87 jeep cherokee with the 4.0. There is a lip in the firewall that will not allow the number 14 bolt to come all the way out. It has to come out and go in in the head.
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