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Unread 04-03-2011, 09:36 AM   #16
jimmybjames
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: louisville, KY
Posts: 56
I have also now read conflicting info on the fluid type. For the AWD transmission should I use dextron\mecron or ATF4?

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Unread 04-03-2011, 09:50 AM   #17
Dodgeram1989
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Atf4, transmissions are the same for AWD and 4WD. If u changed the sensor and fluid and it didn't fix it then you are proly looking at a rebuild. Also check your 02 sensor wiring, I know on my dodge ram that the 02 sensor wiring is ran in the same pigtail as the governor solenoid
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Unread 04-03-2011, 10:26 AM   #18
rlcii77
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Not sure which trans. you have, but I thought that the OD was controlled by an electric solenoid. I also read somewhere that the OD will not engage until up to operating temp or close to it.

Are you having any other kind of shifting trouble with your Jeep?
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Unread 04-03-2011, 10:42 AM   #19
jimmybjames
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1997 ZJ 
 
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Location: louisville, KY
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Nope the shifting other than this is great and it shifts into OD until it gets warm. I always let my jeep warm up before I drive it, but even after its normal warm up before driving I have overdrive for a few minutes the its gone. The way I see it there are only a few things left. It could be a clog in the cooling line causing the fluid temp to go over 260 and the TCM not allowing OD, or the OD solenoid is bad, or the TCM is bad. If its none of these things then I guess it would be a busted tranny, but then again I dont know much about transmissions. As far as what trans I have Im not to sure, I have a 1997 ZJ 4.0 with the AWD power train.
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Unread 04-03-2011, 11:05 AM   #20
classicmetalman
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You checked the fluid when you changed sensor n it looked OK and didn't smell burnt, I wouldn't think it's overheating then.
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Unread 04-03-2011, 12:17 PM   #21
jimmybjames
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Well it has a slight burnt smell but nothing like total burnt fluid or anything but when I drained it it was coffee colored and not red like it should be. Thats what makes me think its overheating.
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Unread 04-03-2011, 12:21 PM   #22
Candymancan
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Well, it could also mean the fluid has never been changed in awhile so it lost soem of its thermal properties. Unless its below 40f you shouldnt have to "Warm" up anything. OD should come on when the fluid is above 40f

There is no such thing as AWD transmission. Your talking about the transfer case i believe. If you have a 97 4.0 then you have a 42RE transmission. It requires ATF+4 fluid from Certified Chrysler bottles, which are many brands. Dont use Dexron 3 in it.
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Unread 04-03-2011, 01:45 PM   #23
jimmybjames
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Good to know. I used ATF4 in my change but when I read something about dextron I about freaked.... Glad to know its atf4. Also thanks for the info on my tranny. I didnt know what kind only that I dont choose 4wheel its always in 4wheel but i can choose 4wheel low. As far as warming up I have always given my vehicles a few minutes to idle before I drive them. I feel better about it when I do. Well I think I am going to try the flush and see if it can fix my issue seeing how the filter and sensor didnt do it.
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Unread 04-03-2011, 02:18 PM   #24
Candymancan
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Letting engines warm up is only for really old cars. Your just wasting gasoline by letting something warm up, unless its so cold out you want to warm it up to heat the inside or something. I just start the Jeep, and put my seatbelt on and take off, the time i used to put on my seat belt is enough time for the oil to get pumpin and thats all you need.

If all you have is 4fulltime, neutral and 4 low then you have a quadra trac transfer case (np249) in your 4.0, usually most 4.0 have the select trac which is 2WD, 4part time, 4 fulltime, neutral and 4 low. May i ask how many miles do you have on it ?
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Unread 04-03-2011, 02:37 PM   #25
jimmybjames
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Sure, I have about 170,000 miles on it right now. The engine runs great. Like a champ, and until a few weeks ago the transmission was the same. For the most part is still except for the loss of overdrive but keep in mind when I first start driving it shifts into overdrive just fine. Everything is as it should be, for a few minutes that is.
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Unread 04-03-2011, 03:56 PM   #26
ZeeJay1997
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FWIW, here's what the FSM says about flush lines.

CONVERTER DRAINBACK CHECK VALVE SERVICE
The converter drainback check valve is located in
the cooler outlet (pressure) line near the radiator
lower tank. The valve prevents fluid drainback when
the vehicle is parked for lengthy periods. The valve
check ball is spring loaded and has an opening pressure
of approximately 2 psi.
The valve is serviced as an assembly; it is not
repairable. Do not clean the valve if restricted, or
contaminated by sludge, or debris. If the valve fails,
or if a transmission malfunction occurs that generates
sludge and/or clutch particles and metal shavings,
the valve must be replaced.
The valve must be removed whenever the cooler
and lines are reverse flushed. The valve can be flow
tested when necessary. The procedure is exactly the
same as for flow testing a cooler.
If the valve is restricted, installed backwards, or in
the wrong line, it will cause an overheating condition
and possible transmission failure.
CAUTION: The drainback valve is a one-way flow
device. It must be properly oriented in terms of flow
direction for the cooler to function properly. The
valve must be installed in the pressure line. Otherwise
flow will be blocked and would cause an overheating
condition and eventual transmission failure.
OIL COOLER FLOW CHECK
After the new or repaired transmission has been
installed and filled, the oil cooler flow should be
checked using the following procedure:
(1) Disconnect the From cooler line at the transmission
and place a collecting container under the
disconnected line.
(2) Run the engine at curb idle speed, with the
shift selector in neutral.
(3) If the fluid flow is intermittent or takes more
than 20 seconds to collect one quart, the cooler
should be replaced.
CAUTION: With the fluid set at the proper level,
fluid collection should not exceed (1) quart or internal
damage to the transmission may occur.
(4) If flow is found to be within acceptable limits,
reconnect the cooler line. Then fill transaxle to the
proper level, using the approved type of automatic
transmission fluid.
FLUSHING COOLERS AND TUBES
When a transmission failure has contaminated the
fluid, the oil cooler(s) must be flushed. The cooler
bypass valve in the transmission must be replaced
also. The torque converter must also be replaced.
This will insure that metal particles or sludged oil
are not later transferred back into the reconditioned
(or replaced) transmission.
There are two different procedures for flushing
coolers and lines. The recommended procedure is to
use Tool 6906 Cooler Flusher. The other procedure is
to use a hand suction gun and mineral spirits

COOLER FLUSH USING SUCTION GUN AND
MINERAL SPIRITS
(1) Disconnect the cooler lines at the transmission.
(2) Using a hand suction gun filled with mineral
spirits, reverse flush the cooler. Force mineral spirits
into the From Cooler line of the cooler and catch
the exiting spirits from the To Cooler line. Observe
for the presence of debris in the exiting fluid. Continue
until fluid exiting is clear and free from debris.
(3) Using compressed air (under 40 psi.) in intermittent
spurts, blow any remaining mineral spirits
from the cooler, again in the reverse direction.
(4) Pump one (1) quart of automatic transmission
fluid through the cooler before reconnecting.
(5) If at any stage of the cleaning process, the
cooler does not freely pass fluid, the cooler must be
replaced.
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Unread 04-03-2011, 04:16 PM   #27
jimmybjames
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Hey zeejay, Where is this valve located and can it safely be removed and not used? Or if not how hard of a replacement is it? Thanks for the info, sounds like another thing to check seeing that if it closed or is clogged. Sounds like this if clogged would cause the tranny to heat up and the TCM to turn off OD. And I am just guesing that while driving this would only take a few minutes to do. Please correct me if I am wrong.
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Unread 04-03-2011, 04:52 PM   #28
rlcii77
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Location: Middleport, Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmybjames View Post
Hey zeejay, Where is this valve located and can it safely be removed and not used? Or if not how hard of a replacement is it? Thanks for the info, sounds like another thing to check seeing that if it closed or is clogged. Sounds like this if clogged would cause the tranny to heat up and the TCM to turn off OD. And I am just guesing that while driving this would only take a few minutes to do. Please correct me if I am wrong.


Not zeejay, but anyway,

check this thread:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/t...elete-1119149/
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Unread 04-03-2011, 04:59 PM   #29
jimmybjames
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Nice find, thanks. Maybe I will look into replacing it or pulling it to see if that fixes my issue and if so grabbing a new one.
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Unread 04-04-2011, 06:12 AM   #30
jimmybjames
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Location: louisville, KY
Posts: 56
So I am all over google trying to find a replacement anti-drain valve or CONVERTER DRAINBACK CHECK VALVE. I can not find one anywhere. Has anyone had to do this and would it be a dealer only part?
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