1995 V8 swap to 1998 V8 - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 2 Old 06-24-2013, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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1998 ZJ 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,204
1995 V8 swap to 1998 V8

Just figured I'd do a small write up in case anyone else winds up needing to do this swap in the future.

This is an OBDI swap to an OBDII equipped Jeep, the donor was a 1993-1995 V8 ZJ with the 46RH transmission and the recipient was a 1996-1998 V8 ZJ with the 44RE transmission.

Areas to highlight.
- The 1993-1995 engine has 2 temperature sensors (one for the cluster and one for the PCM), the 1996-1998 only has one plug that feeds info to the cluster and the PCM. It is fine to leave the second temp sensor with no wires connected.

- During the 1993-1995 model years, the EGR valve and associated hoses are on the back of the engine by the distributor. The 1996-1998 uses a system that runs right off the TB. You will need to fabricate a block off plate, seal it with RTV and then use a small nut as a spacer to hold in place.

- One of the nuts on the passenger side exhaust is a royal PITA to put back on. You need to bend the heat shield back a bit and jam your hand right down in there. You could also try complete removal of the header on that side.

- The torque converter is indexed on the shaft. It MUST go back on in the same position it came off in. Use a paint pen to mark the converter and the mounting face on the bellhousing; when it is properly installed, it will sit about 0.5" inboard of the mounting face. This is critical to connecting everything again.

- The A/C does not need to be disconnected. You can bend it out of the way and place it by the passenger side hood support. The condenser can be rested on the fender.

- You MUST remove the hood, header panel and front bumper cover. You will also want to pick up a clutch fan spanner. Taking off and installing the fan takes under a minute with it.

- With the engine out, you might as well replace all the wear items. We replaced the water pump, thermostat, all associated gaskets, the valve cover gaskets, rear main seal, oil pan gasket, TB gasket, new oil filter, new air filter, upper and lower rad hoses. The plenum fix is much easier with the engine on a stand. You should also replace all the spark plugs and do the injector o-rings.

- You'll need a lot of consumables/ fluids. We went through a can of brake cleaner, 4 rolls of shop towels, a 10kg bag of absorball. You'll need some flat stock and a grinder to make your block off plate. 6-7L of oil to refill the engine and 13-14L of coolant. Two of the larger tubes of black RTV.

- The A/C and alternator mount off the 1993-1995 donor must be reused. I wound up with the power steering from the 1998, the alternator from the 1998, the A/C from the 1998 and the rest from the 1995.

- You will probably miswire the wires and the distributor to start, it will just run like crap. Adjust them as needed.

- Bag and label your bolts, we should have.

- The CPS is usually a real PITA, since you can access the harness easily with the transmission out, I moved iot a bit to the side for futre maintenance.

I'll toss up some pictures tonight, feel free to ask any questions.

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post #2 of 2 Old 06-24-2013, 01:40 PM
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2007 JK Wrangler 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary
Posts: 2,571
use the pulleys/brackets from the donor motor as well.

how did you figure out the torque converter is indexed?

07' JKUR rollin on 35s
JohnnyZJ is offline  

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