1995 jeep grand cherokee laredo won't start - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 15 Old 04-12-2017, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
alexthejeeper1
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1995 jeep grand cherokee laredo won't start

Hi. Almost a month ago when I was driving I took a turn and my car shook and stalled. I got a tow and for the car it will crank but won't really start. I replaced the spark plug wiring kit making sure I got the right order. when I initally checked I had healthy blue sparks but that was a few weeks ago. I saw that the fuel pressure was running at 32 psi and replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump. pressure is fine now. before I replaced the pump I was able to start it for a few seconds and then the car would idle roughly and stall, and now it won't even start. starting fluid hasn't worked either. The car just cranks now. At one point I was investagating the computer and I unplugged the long wire on the front of the computer unaware that you are supposed to remove the battery first. I tried cranking too to compare the noises of the car with and without the computer cable hooked. I did replace the battery also. I am additionally getting a 1255 check engine code. At this point I'm not sure why the car won't start.

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post #2 of 15 Old 04-12-2017, 02:26 PM
kg6mov
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Sorry to hear about your car, but we're a jeep forum, so we're only gonna be able to help with your jeep.

j/k

Go through the dirty dozen, one by one, then report back: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/1...talls-1407423/


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post #3 of 15 Old 04-12-2017, 06:43 PM
Afdude88
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Engine codes

12 - Battery has been disconnected within the last 50 key cycles (engine starts)

55 - End of codes

Don't see a problem there

1998 Grand Cherokee:
4.0L I6
42RE
242 tc
2.5 OME lift
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post #4 of 15 Old 04-12-2017, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
alexthejeeper1
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So I am just starting to read into the 12 things to do. But anyways I was told to try flooring the pedal when I cranked to get rid of any possible flooding so when I did that the car sputtered a lot more like it wanted to start but didn't. I am assuming by that that fuel is getting in but the spark isn't igniting the gas for some reason. What confuses me is that the car would start for a little with 32psi of gas but won't with 45psi so is it maybe flooding (even though the plugs were dry) or maybe timing or just the computer?
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post #5 of 15 Old 04-12-2017, 10:25 PM
vlackattack
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That sounds like what happened with mine when the crank sensor died. Not saying that's your issue, but it's something to look at.
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post #6 of 15 Old 04-13-2017, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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I've narrowed it to crank sensor, fuses, or pcm will check fuses tommorow along with crank sensor
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post #7 of 15 Old 04-13-2017, 03:04 AM
Uniblurb
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What size engine? You should get a CEL for a few seconds when first turning the key on or the PCM isn't communicating.

Good idea to first check your fuses including all of them in the PDC. Start with large ones first then go to the smaller ones.

If spraying starting fluid down the throttle body and it won't start for even a few seconds you likely have no spark. Crank sensor controls spark and if it does test bad don't go with any other brand other than Mopar or you'll be sorry.

Make sure your grounds are clean/good especially the PCM ground.

Good luck and welcome to the forum.

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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post #8 of 15 Old 04-13-2017, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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I've got a straight 6 4.0l and check engine comes on for a few seconds at start, gonna investigate into crank sensor
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post #9 of 15 Old 04-13-2017, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexthejeeper1 View Post
I've got a straight 6 4.0l and check engine comes on for a few seconds at start, gonna investigate into crank sensor
There's a couple crank sensor tests in my signature but the below one is even better where you're checking for crank sensor signal. An analog meter works best and be sure to remove the coil wire while pulling the fuel pump relay rather than messing with the injectors. This test involve turning the engine over by hand while watching the meter face.

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/jee...crank-sensor-1

Just as a heads up the 93-95 uses 8V of power at the crank, cam and vehicle speed sensors as opposed to 5V for the 96-98 ZJ's.

Again go only with Mopar if the crank sensor is bad and 2 brand new BWD crank sensors drove me nuts since they acted just as bad/finicky as my bad OE/Mopar one. Good luck.

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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post #10 of 15 Old 04-14-2017, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
alexthejeeper1
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Cleaned out the pcm grounds, still nothing. I'm gonna take the pcm out and try it in someone with the same jeep I have. Don't know how relevant but last night I was gonna look inside the distributor cap and loosened one of the screws but something came up and I never got to take it off or retighten it. This morning the car sounds like it really was trying to start teasing me. Didn't know if that could mean the problem lies in the distributor cap or spark plugs
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post #11 of 15 Old 04-21-2017, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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so I am getting spark so I ruled out the crank sensor but I cleaned out my fuel injectors and when I put them back in the car started but I turned it off for a moment but when I turned it back on same problem crank no start. fuel was squirting nice through each injector when I disconnected the fuel rail and now i'm thinking maybe fuel pressure regulator or maybe just a new fuel rail but i'm still lost on why i'm not starting
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post #12 of 15 Old 04-21-2017, 01:56 PM
vlackattack
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I would test the crank sensor using the link Uniblurb posted anyway. I was still getting spark when my crank sensor was bad.
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post #13 of 15 Old 04-21-2017, 03:09 PM
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Interesting vlackattack and normally that crank sensor signal test is for a no-start condition only. What were you seeing on your meter, weak or loss of signal? I have seen where a bad crank sensor will just send a signal when it wants to with an intermittently spark.

A couple other things you may want to try alexthejeeper. Check to make sure you have spark at the coil wire removed and held above the middle of the distributor cap. Then install that coil wire and check for spark with a plug wire removed held near the block. This will rule out if you have problems with the cap/rotor themselves. Wear rubber gloves and use rubber insulated pliers so you don't get zapped.

Typically a fuel rail doesn't go bad. But you may want to connect a fuel pressure tester to the rail and make sure it's getting fuel all the time. The ideal thing is to tape the gauge face to the windshield so you can see the gauge while driving. This may take an extension hose on the fuel pressure tester.

You can also make sure your horn works then flip the horn relay in the PDC with the fuel pump relay to rule out you have a bad one.

It should be noted the 95 was the first year they moved the external fuel pressure regulator from the fuel rail into the fuel pump module in the tank. If you do find you have a bad fuel pump/regulator don't go out and buy a cheap one and Bosch is your best bet. Good luck.

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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post #14 of 15 Old 04-21-2017, 04:31 PM
vlackattack
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When I tested it I was getting around 2.8V for the signal instead of 5, so maybe there was spark but it was just weak? OP's crank sensor may be fine and the spark I had with mine was just a fluke, I don't know enough about the electrical system to know for sure. Just figured I'd share my experience, and the sensor's not too difficult to test.
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post #15 of 15 Old 04-21-2017, 09:12 PM
Uniblurb
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That's real interesting half the crank sensor signal voltage will create that much havoc but makes sense. Thanks for passing on your experences with that test!

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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