[ratmonkey]

Originally Posted by hiroku1324

Sorry about that, not intentional ignorance :0
I am going to replace the oil pump and pickup tube with strainer, due to low oil pressure, it starts around 61bs but once warmed up around 40lbs.
Been doing this before all of the work on it.
The bushing should be in the new oil pump?

your oil pressure is perfect, no need to go screwing around in the pan.

[hiroku1324]

Originally Posted by HighLonesome

Does it do it in all gears? Or at a certain RPM. Sounds electrical.

I noticed that as I drive it, it is doing it mostly above 50mph,
Am wondering if I got a crappy rotor and cap from NAPA, I got one of their cheapest ones.
It is getting really great mileage have run 1.5 tanks so far with seafoam in tank, cleaned throttle body ckd sensors tps, map and both check out good with meter.

The distributor shaft bushing appears to have minimal play.
I did find the coil wire sitting on the exhaust manifold have since repaired it where it touched and put it in the clip that is supposed to hold it off the manifold, driveability a little better but still same problem.

[hiroku1324]

Well I finally fixed the problem, checked distributor cap and found one side unscrewed.
Guess what reset cap and verified fit--tight.

Started it up and VROOOOOOM!

Guess it goes to show-CHECK THE LITTLE THINGS FIRST!!!!!!!

Anyway it has power, no miss around 60 and it is averaging 20+ mpg.

Thank you all for your help and input!!!!

[HighLonesome]

Cool
funny it didn't do it in all gears.

[hiroku1324]

Yeah, I know...This Jeep amazes me. I have done some dumb things with it and it will run, not perfectly but enough to get you to where you are going. I kept telling my GF "It has to be something simple or stupid.

They were made well in 1995.

[fotonm]

After having this same problem on my 94 with a 5.2 I changed EVERYTHING that people have been talking about on here the TPS, New Tranny, New fuel filter, New fuel pressure regulator. Sometimes it would run great then other times just very sluggish and especially between about 1000 to the 2000 rpm mark. It didnt matter if it was hot or cold just very frustrating and intermittent.

Well I started to suspect a vacuum leak. While monkeying with the vacuum lines and wiggling them I got a surge and thought I was on to it. It wasn't the vacuum after all.

It was the wires that go into the TPS and when I would wiggle them it would surge and even cut off the engine. I unplugged it and Ohmed out the wires while my ohm meter was plugged into and wiggled the wires and I didnt get any Resistance drop. I figure out that the pin that comes out from the ground part of the TPS was not making a good contact with the connector. When it was not making a good solid contact I would get the problem.

You can fix this one of two ways.... you can replace the entire plug assembly to one where the female end of the connectors make a better contact or you can take up the slack in the now too loose female end with a small piece of wire inserted into the tooled out female end (lol) and now it wont be like a hotdog in a hallway and will make a good ground. Plugged it all back in and now runs like it should with full power all the way through the spectrum.

This worked for me so you may try this!! Its a connection and grounding problem not an actual prob with any of the devices.

if your grounding and connections in that TPS are not solid it spikes all up and down sending the wrong voltage to the rest of the injection system.