12 Things You Can Do When Your ZJ Stalls - Page 12 - JeepForum.com

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post #166 of 435 Old 09-27-2013, 01:26 AM
Oldfrog
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Also sounds very much like my latest round. Another PCM cured it. 350 miles on it now...and running strong. I no longer keep my foot on the brake at lights and rev it a tiny bit. ( the sign of a burned ZJ owner) It's running like a new one at nearly 250K miles.

Pay a great deal of attention to the lower o2 sensor wiring and, believe it or not, the tps area wiring harness. I had a small issue there this summer.


2007 5.7 Hemi, Ltd. QD II -
1997 ZJ, 4,0 select trac, Up country, track lok.
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post #167 of 435 Old 09-27-2013, 04:45 AM Thread Starter
ZeeJay1997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgcarpenter View Post
New ASD in.
I have to test voltages tomorrow because my brother popped the fuse in my cheap p.o.s. Multimeter.
it could be the coil, coil connector, wiring between coil and pcm, pcm.


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post #168 of 435 Old 09-27-2013, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997
it could be the coil, coil connector, wiring between coil and pcm, pcm.
Battery voltage tested 12.25 after surface charge removed
Tested 13.65 while running
Coil tests 13.55 while running.

Battery test is way low. I'll test the battery more at school Monday.
Waiting for it to stall now to test the tps voltage like oldfrog said
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post #169 of 435 Old 09-27-2013, 04:24 PM
cgcarpenter
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Tps 5.15 after stalling.

It smells so rich right before it stalled too

Would leaky injectors cause this?

Edit: also found out my crank sensor is not mopar. P.O. put in an aftermarket one.
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post #170 of 435 Old 09-27-2013, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
ZeeJay1997
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I would get the charging system up to par before spending any more time trying to figure out why it's coding.


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post #171 of 435 Old 09-27-2013, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997
I would get the charging system up to par before spending any more time trying to figure out why it's coding.
Does it sound like an alternator issue or a battery issue?
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post #172 of 435 Old 09-28-2013, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgcarpenter View Post
does it sound like an alternator issue or a battery issue?
#4


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post #173 of 435 Old 10-02-2013, 08:51 PM
cgcarpenter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997
#4
Okay Zee
I cleaned my grounds.. 2 on the block and the one next to the battery above the fender. Are there any more? And cleaned alternator connections.
I even cut my battery cables and put fresh ends into my terminal clamps. And my voltage after a cold start/charge was 12.6 surface charge removed. 13.75 running.

So I know this is low and to throw some more info I tested running with lights and heater on charging went down to 13.5-13.55. WAY LOW.

Now to throw a wrench in it when after a good 15 minute drive it stalled after I pulled over and I was idling. I tested my battery right after and it was 12.6(with surface charge) and when I turned it back on charging was down to 13.5 with no lights on and so ****s and giggles I turned on my lights and charging went down to 13.4-13.45.
So. When it gets hot Its not charging as well as when it's started from a cold start.
Which makes me question. Could this possibly be a battery temp sensor or the regulator in the PCM?
Also my alternator is original and looks like hell so it could be just taking a dump on me finally.
Need some input.
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post #174 of 435 Old 10-02-2013, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
ZeeJay1997
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#4, last sentence, follow the links


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post #175 of 435 Old 10-16-2013, 01:21 AM
cgcarpenter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997
#4, last sentence, follow the links
Okay Zee. Need your opinion on this now. I tested my battery and it tested fine and
I tested my alternator with the vat40 and it was only putting out 74 amps which is way low for a 117. So I went ahead and replaced it with a 120a which tested great at 113amps. The thing is my voltage it still sitting at about 13.5-13.65 with on the lower side when there is a load applied. When I rev up to 1500 to 2000 rpm it'll go up to about 13.7-13.8 but you guys said it should always be at least 13.8.
So do you think this is my voltage regulator/PCM.
Also is there supposed to be battery light on the instrument gauge? Cuz mine doesn't light up if it supposed to.
Also it my issues SEEM to be worse when it's hot outside but I could be imagining things. What's your thoughts on the battery temp sensor?
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post #176 of 435 Old 10-16-2013, 01:59 AM
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13.65 is probably OK. Not perfect, but probably OK.
The regulator is in the PCM.
The rich condition...was it after it had warmed up?
The O2 sensor comes into play only after the engine is at operating temp, as I understand it. But a shorted O2 sensor can screw everything up. These PCMs can be fickle.

I finally went with new NTK O2 sensors on my 97 4.0, and then changed the PCM ( again!). It runs like a new one now. Not sure it would have, had I not swapped the o2 sensors. My city mileage is over 15 now with the 3.73 rear end, where it was 13-14 mpg before.

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post #177 of 435 Old 10-16-2013, 02:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldfrog
13.65 is probably OK. Not perfect, but probably OK. The regulator is in the PCM. The rich condition...was it after it had warmed up? The O2 sensor comes into play only after the engine is at operating temp, as I understand it. But a shorted O2 sensor can screw everything up. These PCMs can be fickle. I finally went with new NTK O2 sensors on my 97 4.0, and then changed the PCM ( again!). It runs like a new one now. Not sure it would have, had I not swapped the o2 sensors. My city mileage is over 15 now with the 3.73 rear end, where it was 13-14 mpg before.
OK isn't good enough lol
I threw some NTK o2s on a few weeks ago with no change.
I know the regulator is in the PCM.
I'm on my second PCM for about a year and a half.
Im getting about 13-14 city too on 3.73s
I'm just trying to get some last second opinions before I jump to anther PCM.
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post #178 of 435 Old 10-16-2013, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
ZeeJay1997
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cg, did you check the battery temp sensor? if it checks good i think you need to leave well enough alone. a couple hundredths of a volt could be in the meter. drive it a while and see what kind of service it gives you, then decide if you want to change the PCM.


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post #179 of 435 Old 10-22-2013, 03:10 AM
cgcarpenter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997
cg, did you check the battery temp sensor? if it checks good i think you need to leave well enough alone. a couple hundredths of a volt could be in the meter. drive it a while and see what kind of service it gives you, then decide if you want to change the PCM.
I haven't tested the sensor yet.
But it hasn't gotten any better.
Voltage still at 13.6 running and load tested the new alternator and somehow it's putting out 160+ amps off a 120amp alternator. What? Lol And if it weren't for my professor whose been teaching this for 20 years I would think this would make no sense..
Now that I think about it would this screw with my PCM?
And is the alternator supposed to have a fuse or fusible like somewhere cuz we couldn't find it for the life of me.

I'm so tired of this P.O.S.
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post #180 of 435 Old 10-22-2013, 06:05 AM Thread Starter
ZeeJay1997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgcarpenter View Post
I haven't tested the sensor yet.
the method to test is on the last attachment of the post that gives the procedure to check the system.

How is it driving?


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