Ok here goes...It is not computerized. You open the valve on the bottle.To arm the system 3 things need to happen. The 1st is the bottle needs to be on.The 2nd is the system needs to be armed. I use a key switch instead of the cheap toggle that will come with the kit.This way the system cannot be armed without the key.The 3rd step is a "wide open throttle" switch which is installed on the throttle body near the throttle cable.This switch is triggered when you put your foot to the floor. If any of those steps are missed the nitrous will not work.
The kit is a "wet" system. That means that nitrous and gas are injected into your motor. There is a line that goes from the bottle to the nitrous cylinoid then to the fogger nozzle.There is also a gas line that runs from your fuel rail to the fuel cylinoid then to the fogger nozzle. When you attach the fuel line to the rail there is a core you have to take out. it requires a core tool you can order from any parts store.When you remove the core fuel will spill out all over so try to catch it with a rag. DO NOT forget this step. If you do it will lean out the motor and probably hurt it.
The wiring is the most challenging, but it still really is'nt that hard. I could walk you through it if you needed help.
The last thing is you will want to put new plugs in that are 2 heat ranges colder. After that you should be ready to roll!!!!
Bottle presure is a big thing,900-1000 psi is optimum. NEVER have a bottle over filled. It should weigh no more then 25lbs when its full. Heat is what makes the presure in the bottle go up so a gauge is another thing that is important to have. This way you can monitor the bottle psi.
Common sence goes along way so if you have a question ask. There are no stupid ones.
I had the Jeep video E-mailed to me, However I have no I dea how to show it. Any ideas?
98' Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9
Simple Mods: K&N, 125hp NX System.
Best Et: 13.80@100mph
87' Buick Turbo T
Mostly Stock, Best Et: firstname.lastname@example.org mph