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Unread 06-10-2005, 01:49 AM   #1
BISKOPETE
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yj windshield adjustment

Ok people, I need some help here. I have a 1992 YJ with a Supertop. I broke and need to replace the left front bracket that the frame attaches to. It broke and I called Bestop to order a replacement. So far no problem. The reason that this bracket broke is that the frame Dzus fitting never fit it exactly. When I talked to the Bestop rep, they first asked if my windshield was straight? Duh, looked straight to me. Turns out that the safety bar (Roll Bar to me) needs to be adjusted to a certain length, 75 & 1/8" from windshield frame to rear tailgate. Ok so much for the background. How do I adjust this? I found a #50 Safety Torx on the top of the safety bar, these suckers are on tighter than my maiden aunt Mary's crotch. Somebody out there had to go through this before. My son-in-law who is a jeep fanatic didn't even know about this. HELP!

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Unread 06-10-2005, 03:30 AM   #2
jeepin_6337
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those torx bolts are the only way you're going to adjust the length of the windshield bars. i got mine off with visegrips.
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Unread 06-10-2005, 10:51 AM   #3
schitzangiggles
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I adjusted my streamer/front roll bars all the way off. It makes it so much nicer to drive off road with the windsheild down. When I hit the road or have to put the top back up, I set up the front bar (the part with the Dutz fastner on it) first, then hook up the streamers only when the wife makes me. Man I cant wait for my full cage! BTW if you tap the torx diver with a hammer first then try to back it out. once you get that POS out, go to your local hardware store and replace it with the right sized grade 8 hex head bolt.
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Unread 06-10-2005, 10:56 AM   #4
tcourdin
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Be sure to use a good quality star bit and they will break loose. Or vise grips. After you loosen them once they work better. You will also have to loosen the dash brackets on each side of the dash. As far as removing the bars and leaving the windshield down, that is a BLAST, but man you will be screwed if she ever rolls!
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Unread 06-10-2005, 11:15 AM   #5
schitzangiggles
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That's what that big hoop thingy with the other tube stuff behind you is for, unless you just use it to dry laundry with it.
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Unread 06-10-2005, 11:33 AM   #6
tcourdin
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Is that what the hoopy thing is for? I guess you wont need that full roll cage you are wanting then, unless you want to dry a bunch of laundry.........
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Unread 06-10-2005, 11:53 AM   #7
schitzangiggles
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Yeah, actually my dryer is broke and I am waiting for the new one to get here. I am in the process of building a full cage an new front and rear bumpers out of 2 1/2'' tubing. I hate the stock 'sport cage' for the PITA it is to take out those streamers to drop the windsheild. I also want to be able to do some more ''extream'' stuf with my wife in the jeep (she doesn't trust the factory cage and especially those soda can streamers) she wants to see more steel. I have nooooo problem when she wants me to spend more $$$ on the jeep!
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Unread 06-10-2005, 12:00 PM   #8
tcourdin
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I agree the roll cage you are building will make it sweet to drop the windshield down! I went with the bolt in cage from rock hard 4x4 and for the wheeling we do it works great and looks sweet. At least I hope it works great! Hey original postee, Did you ever get those Torx bolt out??????????????????? I friggin hate those thing..................
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Unread 06-10-2005, 12:12 PM   #9
schitzangiggles
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Wack the torx bit in the bolt with a hammer before you try to take them out, that is the most reliable way other than welding a nut to it to get it out. Before I was told about the ''whack a mole'' trick I used channel lock pliers (440) to get them out, the 440 has longer handles for more leverage.
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Unread 06-10-2005, 12:26 PM   #10
tcourdin
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Man thats a good idea to weld a nut to that little son of a @#$%!
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Unread 06-10-2005, 12:54 PM   #11
BISKOPETE
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Re windshield Adjust

Thanks for the help guys. I'm gonna try the torx with an impact driver before I get to beating it with a BFH or use a vise grips. I just found out that my 92 has a 20 gal gas tank that only holds 15 gals. 'cause of the fill tube. Gonna take out that tube and see what happens. It may be a piece of shinola, but its my piece of shinola.
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Unread 06-10-2005, 02:35 PM   #12
BRad704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schitzangiggles
Yeah, actually my dryer is broke and I am waiting for the new one to get here. I am in the process of building a full cage an new front and rear bumpers out of 2 1/2'' tubing. I hate the stock 'sport cage' for the PITA it is to take out those streamers to drop the windsheild. I also want to be able to do some more ''extream'' stuf with my wife in the jeep (she doesn't trust the factory cage and especially those soda can streamers) she wants to see more steel. I have nooooo problem when she wants me to spend more $$$ on the jeep!
how are you tying into the floor/frame down by your feet? i have a TJ cage that im gonna 'refit' into my 91 and cant figure out the best way. I dont really want to loose the foot room, but the bolt-ins that attach to the door frame seems to make a weak spot.
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Unread 06-10-2005, 02:50 PM   #13
schitzangiggles
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I was going to tie the cage into my Rock sliders (that I am also working on) that are bracketed into the frame. If I can get my stupid digital camera to work and can figgure how to post the pics I'll do it. I am debating on whether I will go the traditional inside, or do a exocage/roof rack that would pivot on the rear to provide some shelter after wheeling for sitting around/camping and such. I thought that If I did that, it would be easier to do because it would all be on the out side and I wouldn't lose any interior room. I would tie into the slidersat the front and run up the side of the cowling, then follow the slant of the windsheild; and at the rear do some corner guards and tie the rear uprights into that and the bumper as well. It will come down to which I think looks better and will be safer.What do you think?
Sorry for the hijack.
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Unread 06-10-2005, 03:51 PM   #14
Flashfoto
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tcourdin,

Why do ya hafta loosen the bolt's on the dash??

I not only have the driver's side too far forward, but the windshield is bowed in, at the top, dead center, maybe 1/2". The guy I bought it from, let the hood fly up on the freeway.

I was just going to hang a 2x4 between the top windshield frame & rollbar, pull back the driver side to where it belong's & pray I don't break the glass. Which is no big deal, it's pitted anyway.

Then, try to straighten the top frame by laying a piece of square tubing along the leading edge & cranking it in with a C-clamp.

Anyone have a better idea?? Besides taking the glass out, first? :-)
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