YJ U-joints go out - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 16 Old 03-17-2013, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
john_pettit2
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YJ U-joints go out

I have a 1992 Yj jeep wrangler with a rough country 4" lift kit and 2" body. I can't keep my u-joints to stay good for over 2 months. They keep breaking on me. Iv been doing a lot of research on here and it seems like the best thing to do it buy new perches and weld them on to make sure the pinion angle is correct. I do not have a SYE kit yet but do plan on buying one soon. The pinion does not look to be that much off anyhow. I do not think new perches will fix this problem. I will post some pictures up in a little while so you guys can tell me what you think.

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post #2 of 16 Old 03-17-2013, 09:29 AM
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Pics?

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post #3 of 16 Old 03-17-2013, 09:32 AM
UltimatE
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4" of lift and stock rear axle/drive shaft setup, my guess is bad driveshaft angles. SYE, CV shaft + new perches to point the pinion at the TC output shaft is the way to go.

-Matt

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post #4 of 16 Old 03-17-2013, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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it has the bars that go between the frame and skid plate to drop the transfer case. Other than that yes it is stock rear axle and drive shaft.
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post #5 of 16 Old 03-17-2013, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Pics will be posted around 3:00,
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post #6 of 16 Old 03-17-2013, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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best pic i can get right now
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post #7 of 16 Old 03-17-2013, 01:47 PM
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from that picture it looks like the pinion is way too high for that type of drive shaft. Best thing to do is get the SYE on there, get rid of the T-case drop and set a good angle. You will need to either buy or make a double cardan drive shaft.


Here's the two different types and angles
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Double_Cardan_driveshaft.gif   2joint_angle.gif  

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post #8 of 16 Old 03-17-2013, 01:48 PM
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Pinion looks a tad high especially for that type of driveline. Bet a little axle wrap on takeoff will snap them.

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post #9 of 16 Old 03-17-2013, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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I just ordered 2" add a leaf today for it. After I add that I was thinking it will definitely be off but when I get the SYE kit (this summer) why would it be better to take out the transfer case drop? Wouldn't want to weld the perches in and then buy the kit and have to reweld them back on.
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post #10 of 16 Old 03-17-2013, 03:30 PM
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ok not to thread jack , so you guys are saying " the pinion u-joints " should be sightly lower than the t-case joints for it to be proper ?

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post #11 of 16 Old 03-17-2013, 03:38 PM
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At that angle, when you accelerate you are way high. Then you break U-joints. Even just a light acceleration will bring you to high on the angle.

One more thing, do not paint your drive shaft. Bad move, may cause vibration.
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post #12 of 16 Old 03-17-2013, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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So for my set up right now you think the rear yoke needs to come down?
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post #13 of 16 Old 03-17-2013, 06:08 PM
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May just be picture angle, but is there any slip yoke remaining outside the transfer case? Looks to me like the drive shaft is too long too.

-Matt

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post #14 of 16 Old 03-18-2013, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john_pettit2 View Post
So for my set up right now you think the rear yoke needs to come down?
from the way your picture looks your pinion angle is way to high. It needs to be parellel to the tc output.

Here is an explanation as to why.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index2.html

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post #15 of 16 Old 03-18-2013, 12:44 PM
SeanB95YJ
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yes, lower your pinion angle.... looks like you have shims installed which are tilting it up... remove them and either leave them out or if necessary, install smaller shims

save those shims though because, at least in that camera angle, it looks like you currently have a good pinion angle if you were running SYE/CV shaft

Sean B. - Schenectady, NY - 95 YJ, 350/700r4/NP241, JB Shorty SYE, 8.8 rear, 2" BDS, 1" homebrew shackles, Daystar 1" BL, TJ flares, 35x12.50 General Grabber AT2 on 15x10 Bart D-Truckers, Polyshield polycarbonate windshield, HD over/under crossover steering
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