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Unread 07-25-2011, 01:44 PM   #1
JohnnyZJ
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YJ steering --> Rugged Ridge

just wondering who runs it and if its worth it? the setup looks the same as the stock setup, so i can't imagine its any worse.

i've read a lot of bad things about it on TJ/Xjs but not much on YJs


i'm also looking at going to OTK with one tonne stuff as a solution either, but that would be a project later on.

i'm debating putting new TRE's on, but they are costly (moog) unless you get the cheap ones; i imagine the cheap ones will last maybe the summer.

thoughts on Rugged Ridge would be great!

thanks

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Unread 07-25-2011, 01:57 PM   #2
grandboost98
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i was considering that setup but after reading all the reviews i decided to save up a little more and go with rustys.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 03:30 PM   #3
JohnnyZJ
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i saw that one too.

how do you like that setup?
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92 YJ ~ locked rollin' on 35s
05' WK Hemi limited ~ future plan?
14' GMC Terrain ~ wifes
13' GMC Sierra ~ 2.5" lift 33" MTs.
RIP 95 ZJ ~ 33s built/longarmed/locked/awesome Feb 2014 ZJOTM winner
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Unread 07-25-2011, 04:07 PM   #4
sebastian22
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JCR is the way to go! I've been running the OTK kit for a while and it made a huge difference for me.

http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=S6
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Unread 07-25-2011, 05:08 PM   #5
mekken
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I've been running the rugged ridge for over 2 years and besides the dust boots drying out i love it. Granted my front end was shot but it stiffened the steering up alot and the joints are still tight.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 05:32 PM   #6
metalry101
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I'm curious about this as well. I've read some reviews that say it has a dead spot on center because it rolls before it turns the tires. Well, my stock setup does that too. Perhaps it's not supposed to, but I don't know how to get rid of it since everything seems to be tight and functioning properly otherwise.

As for the JCR setup...how much is the the reamer and all the stuff required to install it? 3 bills for the steering setup isn't bad, but I don't have much interest in paying a bunch of money for install tools that I will never need again.

If I remember correctly, I read that Rusty's doesn't run opposite threads on each end so you have to remove one end from the knuckle completely to do an alignment. Is this correct?

Are there any other setups that work?
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Unread 07-25-2011, 06:22 PM   #7
klrstew
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Good thread, I'm lurking.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 06:31 PM   #8
klrstew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian22 View Post
JCR is the way to go! I've been running the OTK kit for a while and it made a huge difference for me.

http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=S6
I was considering this a while back, but this

"We recommend having this kit installed by a
professional 4x4 shop in your area as drilling
and reaming needs to be done to knuckles and
pitman arm to fit the 1 ton tie rod ends.
Installation should take about 2 hours."

Scared me away. I'll stick my neck out here,
I'm such a novice I don't even know what
reaming is, unless used as a derogatory
statement. lol.

How hard was it to do?
.
.
.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 08:58 PM   #9
superj
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the derogatory usage is the same as the regular usage but is on the parts instead of a chick or whatever
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Unread 07-26-2011, 09:46 AM   #10
sebastian22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klrstew View Post
I was considering this a while back, but this

"We recommend having this kit installed by a
professional 4x4 shop in your area as drilling
and reaming needs to be done to knuckles and
pitman arm to fit the 1 ton tie rod ends.
Installation should take about 2 hours."

Scared me away. I'll stick my neck out here,
I'm such a novice I don't even know what
reaming is, unless used as a derogatory
statement. lol.

How hard was it to do?
.
.
.

hahah, the reaming is not too difficult. its basically a tapered drill bit that goes from a small tip to a gradual bigger tip. you have to be careful and keep checking that you dont go too far and remove too much metal, otherwise the tie rod ends could have wiggle room and cause problems in your steering. i had a friend help me, we drilled, checked to see if the TRe would fit, drill a little more, check again, and keep repeating over and over again until the TRE fit snug in the knuckles and the pitman arm.

i ordered the reamer straight from Snap-on for about $50, and then resold it on pirate for $40. so not bad.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....4&group_ID=946
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Unread 07-26-2011, 10:43 AM   #11
pauper
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This is what I did earlier this year-added a Durango steering box..a world of difference


http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/...tegory_Code=S6


http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...r-p-21283.html
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Unread 07-26-2011, 11:19 AM   #12
klrstew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian22 View Post
hahah, the reaming is not too difficult. its basically a tapered drill bit that goes from a small tip to a gradual bigger tip. you have to be careful and keep checking that you dont go too far and remove too much metal, otherwise the tie rod ends could have wiggle room and cause problems in your steering. i had a friend help me, we drilled, checked to see if the TRe would fit, drill a little more, check again, and keep repeating over and over again until the TRE fit snug in the knuckles and the pitman arm.

i ordered the reamer straight from Snap-on for about $50, and then resold it on pirate for $40. so not bad.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....4&group_ID=946
I swear i don't mean to personally hi-jack this
thread, but maybe my novice questions will
shed some light for other lurkers and Johnny
too. lol

Sebastian, IIUC the parts you are "reaming"
are the NEW parts to fit the stock config, right?

And, if I'm going to do this it would be better to go OTK right?
Anybody know if it's MORE involved going OTK?

Thanks again guys, you rock!
.
.
.
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Unread 07-26-2011, 11:53 AM   #13
JohnnyZJ
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i've done about as much research on this as you can. only reason i'm looking at the RR kit is because its easier, and if the only real drawback is its still under the knuckle, then i should consider it.

that, and doing an over the knuckle with MOOG joints will still run 500$ + or ordering up a kit like ballistic or JCR would suffice. i think the ballistic kit from omplete offroad plus reamer is about 400$ to my door. but then i have to pull apart the knuckles to ream them and the pitman arm.

i guess i was just looking for some positive thoughts on the Rugged Ridge, as i can have it in and installed Friday, and be back on the trail after the long weekend! and its a lil' cheaper.

i think for now, i might just change the TREs for cheap new ones and collect parts to do OTK in the fall.

sebastian22, silly question, how did using that reamer work? i'm guessing it was slow going?
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92 YJ ~ locked rollin' on 35s
05' WK Hemi limited ~ future plan?
14' GMC Terrain ~ wifes
13' GMC Sierra ~ 2.5" lift 33" MTs.
RIP 95 ZJ ~ 33s built/longarmed/locked/awesome Feb 2014 ZJOTM winner
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Unread 07-26-2011, 12:59 PM   #14
sebastian22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyZJ View Post
sebastian22, silly question, how did using that reamer work? i'm guessing it was slow going?
Basically you just hook the reamer up to a corded drill (i dont think cordless would have the balls necessary to do the job) and you start drilling (reaming) with a friend periodically spraying some oil on your reamer (yeah that sounds dirty ) and you try to keep the drill as vertical as possible.

Check out the installation instructions from JCR for better details...pay special attention to "Figure 2" that shows the reamer doing some work on the knuckle. keep in mind the install they are picturing there is under the knuckle, so since i did the tie rod OVER the knuckle, i actually reamed from the top down.

http://jcroffroad.com/install_guides/1tonsteering.pdf
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Unread 07-26-2011, 01:06 PM   #15
sebastian22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klrstew View Post
I swear i don't mean to personally hi-jack this
thread, but maybe my novice questions will
shed some light for other lurkers and Johnny
too. lol

Sebastian, IIUC the parts you are "reaming"
are the NEW parts to fit the stock config, right?

And, if I'm going to do this it would be better to go OTK right?
Anybody know if it's MORE involved going OTK?

Thanks again guys, you rock!
.
.
.

Your statement up there is not correct. The kit comes with 2 tubes (1 drag link, and 1 tie rod), and 4 tie rod ends with corresponding nuts.


The factory steering hooks up to each Knuckle on the jeep and to the pitman arm that hooks up to the steering box.

Since the tie rod ends that come with the kit have a bigger shaft than the stock ones, you need to drill (ream) out the holes on both knuckles and on the pitman arm. the reason you need a reamer is becaues the tie rod end (TRE) shafts are tapered, so the reamer (snap on R121) will keep the same taper angle while enlarging the holes.

read over the install instructions that i posted above and if you have any questions post up or you can always PM me.




edit...forgot to answer a few of your Q's.

Its personal opinion weather OTK is better or not. I believe it is better to get the steering parts up higher and out of the way of rocks since thats the environment i play in. Also, i feel it give a more "stock like" angle to the drag link and it allowed me to eliminate my drop pitman arm that i had to install with my lift, and i was able to replace it with a stock pitman arm, which i feel gave me better handling and steering response. of course opinions and results will vary.


it is not more involved at all, only thing that changes is which way you are drilling the knuckles, from the bottom up for UNDER the knuckle setup, or from the top down for OVER the knuckle setup.

Also, JCR makes all their stuff in the USA which i really like.
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