YJ shuts off - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 12 Old 09-20-2017, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
CJR2115
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YJ shuts off

Hi, I am new to the forum, and I created an account to get help with this issue. I have a 92 YJ that has only 98000 miles but is giving me hell. For the past year or so, it has been an everyday driver however. The jeep began shutting off while driving around town a few months ago. Each time it did this, which would be about once a week, I would spray carb cleaner in the carb and it would start right back. Recently however, as soon as I pull over when it shuts off, it starts right back on the first or second crank. When it shuts off, it doesn't sputter or shudder, it is just instant. So I'm not sure if its a carb problem or something else. If you need more information please ask.

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post #2 of 12 Old 09-20-2017, 03:07 PM
mike134
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A sudden engine shut down with no sputtering is usually a bad CPS or connection to the CPS.

Could also be ignition coil going bad, fuel pump going bad, or clogged fuel filter. Do a tune up (including fuel filter) if you haven't done so in a while.

Pull the engine codes first by following this video:
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post #3 of 12 Old 09-21-2017, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
CJR2115
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[quote=mike134;38942010]A sudden engine shut down with no sputtering is usually a bad CPS or connection to the CPS.

Could also be ignition coil going bad, fuel pump going bad, or clogged fuel filter. Do a tune up (including fuel filter) if you haven't done so in a while.



So I got a 12,54,55. Im not too sure what the 12 is, but the 54 says its a problem with the distributor sync pickup. What should I do about this. I was going to checkout the CPS and make sure it was fully plugged in and see if the problem fixed itself.

Four low, let's go
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post #4 of 12 Old 09-21-2017, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJR2115 View Post
So I got a 12,54,55. Im not too sure what the 12 is, but the 54 says its a problem with the distributor sync pickup. What should I do about this. I was going to checkout the CPS and make sure it was fully plugged in and see if the problem fixed itself.
Trouble codes

This applies to Jeeps with On Board Diagnostics 1 (1991-1995 in YJs)
First, if you do not have a DRBII scanner you can easily do the "key trick." The on-board reporting will communicate trouble codes to you through the check engine light in a series of flashes; similar to Morse Code.

The key trick: With the ignition OFF, turn the key to ON (do not start the jeep), OFF, ON, OFF, ON (Complete this sequence in under 5 seconds). Be sure to leave the key in the on position until the END OF CODES sequence has flashed (55)

Once the Check Engine Light has turned off, it will pause in the off position for a second or two, and then start to flash, count the flashes. Each code stored will be given to you in a 2 digit sequence. As an example, code 43 would be FLASH FLASH FLASH FLASH... <PAUSE>... FLASH FLASH FLASH followed by a <LONG PAUSE>, followed by the next code. There will never be more than 9 flashes without a pause, and finally Code 55 signals the end of stored codes. Repeat the key trick if you were unsure of a code.

Quick Note: Code 12 is a very common code, and indicates the battery has been disconnected within the last 50 startups. Code 33 will always be present for jeeps without air conditioning. Neither of these codes will themselves cause a check engine light to be displayed.


List of codes/standard meanings:
11: No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad hall effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; or intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor
12: Memory Standby power lost (Battery or computer recently disconnected)
13: No change in Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (MAP) from start to run
14: MAP sensor circuit open or shorted; voltage too low
15: No speed/distance sensor signal
16: Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
17: Engine stays cold too long (bad thermostat)
21: Oxygen sensor signal out of range, possibly shorted
22: Coolant sensor signal out of range (or disconnected to set timing)
23: Intake air temperature signal out of range
24: Throttle position circuit out of range
25: Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found
26: Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached
27: Logic module fuel circuit internal problem or TBI injector does not respond properly to control signal
31: Evaporator Purge solenoid circuit open or shorted or Evaporator solenoid circuit
32: EGR system failure or Power loss lamp open or shorted
33: Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted ( Also will show up for rigs without AC)
34: Speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits open or shorted
35: Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
36: Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
37: Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed (blown bulb) OR Park/neutral switch failure OR Torque converter unlock circuit open or shorted, A-413 4-speed auto
41: Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
42: Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
42: Fuel pump relay control circuit
42: Fuel level unit - no change over miles OR Z1 voltage missing when auto shut-down circuit energized
43: Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time OR Cylinder misfire
43: Problem in power module to logic module interface
44: No FJ2 voltage present at logic board OR Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem OR Battery temperature out of range
45: Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
46: Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system voltage too low
47: Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low
51: Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position OR Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
52: Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position OR Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
53: Logic module internal problem
54: No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only) OR Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
55: End of codes
61: "Baro" sensor open or shorted
62: EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM
62: PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63: Controller cannot write to EEPROM
64: Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65: Power steering switch failure __________________
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post #5 of 12 Old 09-21-2017, 05:52 PM
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Code 12 is basically "start of codes". 55 is "end of codes". 54 should be "cam position sensor sync signal missing". The cam sensor is in the distributor. Check the 2 wires coming out of the distributor. Make sure they are plugged in and not frayed. Follow the wires back, and make sure they are plugged in.

Someone should have a '92 FSM that you should be able to download. This YouTube video has a '93-'95 powertrain diagnostic download that should work ok on your '92.



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post #6 of 12 Old 09-21-2017, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
CJR2115
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[QUOTE=Mr.B;38948282]Code 12 is basically "start of codes". 55 is "end of codes". 54 should be "cam position sensor sync signal missing". The cam sensor is in the distributor. Check the 2 wires coming out of the distributor. Make sure they are plugged in and not frayed. Follow the wires back, and make sure they are plugged in.

Someone should have a '92 FSM that you should be able to download. This YouTube video has a '93-'95 powertrain diagnostic download that should work ok on your '92.


So I just find my diagnostic in this book and it will tell me the probable causes?

Four low, let's go
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post #7 of 12 Old 09-21-2017, 10:49 PM
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If you got a cam shaft error code, i would certainly start by replacing that. It is far less common than a problem with the crankshaft position sensor, but they do break sometimes.

To answer your question, yes. The "Factory Service Manual" tells you how to fix anything on the jeep. The manual that is linked in that video should apply to your 92.

When you go to the store for the new sensor, ask how much a new distributor is as well. I have seen them sold for the same price before.
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post #8 of 12 Old 09-21-2017, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike134 View Post
If you got a cam shaft error code, i would certainly start by replacing that. It is far less common than a problem with the crankshaft position sensor, but they do break sometimes.

To answer your question, yes. The "Factory Service Manual" tells you how to fix anything on the jeep. The manual that is linked in that video should apply to your 92.

When you go to the store for the new sensor, ask how much a new distributor is as well. I have seen them sold for the same price before.
So have I. And the sensor is included in the distributor.

.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Major Sanderson
You have no respect for excessive authority or obsolete traditions. You're dangerous and depraved, and you ought to be taken outside and shot!
Quote:
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post #9 of 12 Old 09-22-2017, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mr.B View Post
So have I. And the sensor is included in the distributor.
Oh ok so if it's not a connection issue, I should just buy the whole distributor which includes the cps?

Four low, let's go
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post #10 of 12 Old 09-22-2017, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJR2115 View Post
Oh ok so if it's not a connection issue, I should just buy the whole distributor which includes the cps?
I would check to make sure that, that is the real problem before buying a new distributor.

Just for clarification, calling it a CPS isn't wrong. But it is confusing, because we generally use CPS to designate the Crank Position Sensor around here.

Did you check to see if the distributor is turning when you crank the engine?

If you have downloaded that powertrain pdf, you can go to page 52 for a diagnostic. It's called Test TC-3a.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Major Sanderson
You have no respect for excessive authority or obsolete traditions. You're dangerous and depraved, and you ought to be taken outside and shot!
Quote:
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Quote:
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Mr.B's post gets you as close to Buddha as you can get on JF...
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post #11 of 12 Old 09-22-2017, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJR2115 View Post
Oh ok so if it's not a connection issue, I should just buy the whole distributor which includes the cps?
Only if it is cheaper. Sometimes it is, one of the weird things about capitalism.

The new distributor almost always contains a cam position sensor. So if it costs less, buy the whole assembly.


We abbreviate the crankshaft position sensor as CPS and not the camshaft position sensor, because of how much more common the crankshaft position sensor problems are. Other forums sometimes call crankshaft position sensor CKS and camshaft position sensor CPS. So it is always a little ambiguous.
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post #12 of 12 Old 10-11-2017, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
CJR2115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike134 View Post
Only if it is cheaper. Sometimes it is, one of the weird things about capitalism.

The new distributor almost always contains a cam position sensor. So if it costs less, buy the whole assembly.


We abbreviate the crankshaft position sensor as CPS and not the camshaft position sensor, because of how much more common the crankshaft position sensor problems are. Other forums sometimes call crankshaft position sensor CKS and camshaft position sensor CPS. So it is always a little ambiguous.
I have another question, would a problem with the distributor and or cam position sensor ever cause the battery to die. Im asking this because when I went to start it today, nothing happened when i turned the key and the interior lights shut off. Have not jumpstarted it yet because I'm wondering if this could help pinpoint whether it is the distributor or just the sensor. I replugged in the sensor, and the lights did not come back on afterwards.

Four low, let's go
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