[sprowley]

Just put the second coat on the YJ today, and MAN does it look fantastic.

She went from nasty Islander red to this sexy black.

I used Rustoleum aerosol paints for this. First a couple coats of the wet-sandable automotive primer (which was indeed wet-sanded) Highly recommend this stuff. It's sandable dry in under an hour, and sands to a magnificently smooth finish. Then the black is simply the regular black "Protective Enamel." It covers extremely well, first coat was very well covered and I only used 1.75 cans for the whole vehicle (per coat) I'm sanding in between coats with 600-2000 grit paper.

So these photos are the second coat:





She also has a new interior: new black carpet and new black seat covers. I might paint the wheels too, I'm diggin the totally blacked out look right now.

[Lastshot]

Looks great! now if only those Square headlamps could be painted round....

[rustywrangler]

That is a very nice job man.


Off topic, what is with the picture frames and what looks to be a kitchen in the garage???

[sprowley]

Originally Posted by Lastshot

Looks great! now if only those Square headlamps could be painted round....

*feels an argument storm brewing* I totally agree dude, if i wasn't selling this one as soon as the paint dries then I'd have changed the grill and hood a long time ago. the 5/7 grill just looks so much better.

i'm going to use the massive profits from the sale of this to buy and build another YJ, and the grill conversion will be one of the first things I do.

[sprowley]

Originally Posted by rustywrangler

That is a very nice job man.


Off topic, what is with the picture frames and what looks to be a kitchen in the garage???

Ah yes..... that. This is not my garage, must make that very clear. I am borrowing my parents' garage for this, as theirs is heated and mine is not, and the paint does not like Wisconsin weather in the winter.

My mother put trim on the windows and paintings on the wall and a small work area at the front with countertops and cabinetry that does in fact match the kitchen's. I know, I know, don't ask, I don't know why either.

[rustywrangler]

Originally Posted by sprowley

I know, I know, don't ask, I don't know why either.

[dodger889]

A new paint job a crappy looking gas tank hanging down. Need to shoot cover coat on it .

The other part it's a women thing we men are not suppose to understand just take it.

[Hockey1]

That looks good. If you polish it, just make sure there is no orange peel. It will look bad in those areas. I'm talking from experience.

[ZeroGravity]

Looks good. Are you going to clear coat it?

2 cans/coat for the vehicle is good. How many coats, and how much did it end up costing you?

[Berb_15]

looks good, are you going to clear coat it?? I painted a set of rims black and they looked good but when I shot them with clear they looked niiiice and shiny.

[sprowley]

Originally Posted by Ringwood

Looks good. Are you going to clear coat it?

2 cans/coat for the vehicle is good. How many coats, and how much did it end up costing you?

its turning out to be just under 2 cans/coat. 3 coats = 6 cans. I used 2 cans of primer as the base. I stripped the old paint, and that was actually the most expensive part. Went through quite a few stripping discs and wire wheels to get everything off, but that is also because some tard PO used crappy spray on bedliner EVERYWHERE, tailgate, fender flares, door opening, interior door panels, and did it all over bolts and such. Stripping that stuff is much, much harder than just the paint. I picked up a box of 20 12x9ft plastic bags on CL (for free!!) to use for masking. And i've gone through a fair amount of 120-600 grit sandpaper through this whole process. All that together.... $100ish? Could have been a lot cheaper if I didn't have to strip all the paint or fix the body at all, there were just too many deep chips and scratches to try to paint over it, and the Islander stickers posed a problem as well.

I haven't decided if I'm going to clear coat it yet. We'll see how the third coat comes out looking today. This kind of paint is made to be exposed to the elements, so it doesn't *need* like other paints. Could be a good idea for a finish though, and for being able to buff out future scratches. Another two cans of clear coat would only be about $7 or $8 so I guess there's no reason not to heh.

[jbach]

square will get you there!!

[jeepdude1987]

Did you say you are sanding it down to 2000grit in between coats? That might not be the best idea. I did Auto-tech in high school and we had Jon Kosmoski (Inventor of House of Kolor if you don't know what that is go here) come by to give a training class. He told a story that he once had a guy come in and tell him that all his products were junk cause this guy had recently painted his car with House of Kolor products and when he went through a car was the paint job washed of. So Jon asked him how the car was prepped. The guy said that he had taken all kinds of time sanding it down cause he wanted the smoothest finish possible. He sanded it all the way to 2000grit. Well, Jon stopped him right there cause that was the problem. The paint had nothing to bit on and stick to so it was doomed from the beginning. he said that the highest you should go is 6-800grit the lower probably being better.

We also had a Dupont rep come by since we had managed to get a paint mixing system and we used some Dupont chemicals(I am pretty sure it was Dupont, but we also had a Valspar rep come by as well so I could be confusing the two). Anyways we were just finishing with a way sweet burnt metallic orange custom paint job on this Porche 944 or 924 (The only porches I can keep the body style correct with the numbers is some classics and the 911) Well, we usually had a problem with the clear coat ending up with a couple little runs and not quite being crystal clear. So the rep said if you want a super smooth finish you color sand with 1500 or 2000grit and buff after the clear is hard. We did it and that car was WAY SUPER SHINY it almost looked like it was wet sometimes.

Anyway I hope you don't have any problems, and all goes well for you. I don't know if you have done this whole process before or what, but I know the guy would be pissed if you sold it to him and when he went through a car wash the paint job came off.

[Godchsr]

Any pics of it put back together?

[intenseblu]

Originally Posted by jeepdude1987

Well, we usually had a problem with the clear coat ending up with a couple little runs and not quite being crystal clear. So the rep said if you want a super smooth finish you color sand with 1500 or 2000grit and buff after the clear is hard. We did it and that car was WAY SUPER SHINY it almost looked like it was wet sometimes.

can you make this clear ? suggestion is:

between color coats max grit you want is 600ish or rougher
then last color coat you use 2000 grit to get as smooth as possible
then clear coat it and wait till it hardens then buff ?

what stops the clear from having nothing to catch on like the color ?

also do you want to polish the last color coat or just sand it ?

give some tips s i'm looking to paint the heep again this summer ... i did some rust coating with rustoleum last year and it turned out ok ... i want professional this time but want to do it myself cause its what i got it for ... as a project.