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Stainless Steel Door Hinge PinsPoly Door Hinge BushingsNew jk doors from steinjager

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Unread 09-21-2013, 03:06 PM   #16
c5wagner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drespecki View Post
Go with the 6.5 PV? No change in the jets then... I was having a hesitation when giving it a firm, more aggressive push of the gas pedal..
You figure out if jets need to be changed by sparkplug color

spark-plug-reading.jpg

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Big Red Money Pit: 1989 Base YJ, 4.2l, MC 2150, nv3550, nv241or with 4:1 low, 2003 Rubicon f D44 & r ford 8.8 with 4.10 gearing, Skyjacker 4" double military wrap springs, RC perf. 2.2 shocks, homebrew 1/2" lift boom shackles, 31x10.5r15 Treadwright Guard Dogs.
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Unread 09-21-2013, 05:06 PM   #17
drespecki
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Originally Posted by c5wagner View Post
You figure out if jets need to be changed by sparkplug color

Yes, If I ever get it running long enough for some good spark plug ID...
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Unread 09-21-2013, 07:58 PM   #18
c5wagner
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Originally Posted by drespecki View Post
Yes, If I ever get it running long enough for some good spark plug ID...
Did you also buy it from the ebay guy? I hear so many have problems with his kits, I looked at the price and they're about $300. I got my carb and everything needed for the swap for about $60 and have zero regrets. The method to getting it to work is nutter bypass the mcu, mount the carb, adjust the idle high enough for it to stay running, adjust timing with timing light, adjust idle mixture screws while using a vacuum gauge, adjust idle again, check timing again and it should all work.
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Big Red Money Pit: 1989 Base YJ, 4.2l, MC 2150, nv3550, nv241or with 4:1 low, 2003 Rubicon f D44 & r ford 8.8 with 4.10 gearing, Skyjacker 4" double military wrap springs, RC perf. 2.2 shocks, homebrew 1/2" lift boom shackles, 31x10.5r15 Treadwright Guard Dogs.
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Unread 09-29-2013, 08:33 PM   #19
sptrmike
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The ebay guys "new Motorcrafts" arent at all they are a cheap knock off, and made like crap,I had nothing but problems with the one I got serious vac leak at the throtle shaft,wrong jets,wrong pv. and had to go through ebay to get my money back. I got a rebuild kit for my old one," genuine Motorcraft" machined some throtle shaft bushings and all is well again.
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Unread 09-29-2013, 10:23 PM   #20
drespecki
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So if my NEW carb from the ebay guy does not have the venturi size embossed into the side, it is a new clone?
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Unread 10-02-2013, 08:25 PM   #21
sptrmike
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So if my NEW carb from the ebay guy does not have the venturi size embossed into the side, it is a new clone?
Yup!
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Unread 10-02-2013, 10:28 PM   #22
drespecki
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Okay, the new ones that he sells are not OEM Motorcrafts...they are an aftermarket clone with Ford internals. On the housing, there should be an embossed stamp showing the venturi size, etc.. and the one I got does not have any of that on it..
Here is a reply from him regarding a question pointed towards that subject:

These are aftermarket brand new. OEM ford carbs haven't been made since the late 80's. They are pretty good and I replace all internals w/ quality Walker parts (power valve, jets, accel pump, gaskets, etc. The ones I build for $280 are all original Ford parts.
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Unread 10-02-2013, 11:55 PM   #23
c5wagner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drespecki View Post
Okay, the new ones that he sells are not OEM Motorcrafts...they are an aftermarket clone with Ford internals. On the housing, there should be an embossed stamp showing the venturi size, etc.. and the one I got does not have any of that on it..
Here is a reply from him regarding a question pointed towards that subject:

These are aftermarket brand new. OEM ford carbs haven't been made since the late 80's. They are pretty good and I replace all internals w/ quality Walker parts (power valve, jets, accel pump, gaskets, etc. The ones I build for $280 are all original Ford parts.
Your aftermarket brand new carb should be fine, but the oems are better. He's right about oems not being made since the late 80's though. Are you still having your rich problem? If so you may need to get a vacuum gauge to adjust the mixture screws just right. The mc 2100 is weird and if you are running too lean on the screws, the power valve will stay open causing it to be rich, too rich on the screws will also cause a drop in vacuum opening the power valve. A dirt tuning that I do is adjust the screws in then out evenly a quarter turn at a time till it's running good, then I turn them in until I hear or feel the motor change then back the screws out a quarter turn to achieve peak lean vacuum. Though a vacuum gauge simplifies things
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Big Red Money Pit: 1989 Base YJ, 4.2l, MC 2150, nv3550, nv241or with 4:1 low, 2003 Rubicon f D44 & r ford 8.8 with 4.10 gearing, Skyjacker 4" double military wrap springs, RC perf. 2.2 shocks, homebrew 1/2" lift boom shackles, 31x10.5r15 Treadwright Guard Dogs.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 10:04 PM   #24
drespecki
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Originally Posted by Jax89Jeeper View Post
It sounds like you are a bit far out with the needles.... Typically the srews are no more than 2.5-3 turns out. #48 jets should be about right for your elevation (not too far above sea level). One question I did not ask: is this the 1.08 venturi version? Being from the ebay guy, it should be, but this can greatly affect tuning so it is worth verifying. Timing is about right, though 8-12 BTDC is acceptable, I have mine set at 10 BTDC. If are not using a vac guage, get one and learn how to use it... it will help get everything sorted out, from the carb to the timing. You will need to check vac to get the proper power valve as well.

It may make it easier to start by tellIng you my set up : #48 jets, 7.5 inHg PV, the needles around 2.75 turns out, float set to 7/16", timing at 10 BTDC, and idle set around 650-700rpm with engine vac running 21-22. Considering your similar elevation (Although in that area the mountains and hills come into play) you should not be too far off from my settings. My carb came from the ebay guy with #50 jets and a 9.5inHg PV and gave me a way too rich base tune.

Are you running manifold or ported vacuum and/or a HEI?
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Unread 11-04-2013, 06:01 AM   #25
vadslram
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I'm running HEI and Mani vac.
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Unread 11-04-2013, 08:32 AM   #26
Beachcruiser
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Originally Posted by c5wagner View Post
I would also play with the accelerator pump linkage to get it right for your vehicle. Also, advance the timing to about 10-12* for your elevation.


There is a subtle relationship between choke & acc pump settings. A heavy pump shot will mask an improper choke setting and vice versa (a pump bog will be covered up when cold by an overly-aggressive choke).

The trick (once timing is verified correct) is to get the lightest pump shot suitable for a warm motor...and then just enough choke to let it drive well when cold-started.
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