[squibload]

Hey all- I installed a 2.5" RC lift kit on my 90 YJ. Since I installed it in the garage, an hour-or-two each night, by myself, I thought that some folks might like to see what I learned.


Though I've read the instuctions and looked at all of the "build" threads I could find, I'm learned some small details that I wish I would have known ahead of time. I've listed them below. Hopefully, it'll help someone else!

1. Inventory the parts in the kit first: There's nothing worse than finding out that a part of two is missing from the manufacturer. If you lay everything out, you'll feel more confident that you're ready to go.

2. Ubolts: Get new ones before the install. Plan on cutting the old ubolts off, as a time saver. Following your inventory, you'll notice that there are 8 u-bolts that are needed; 6 small ones, and 2 larger ones. When doing the rear axle, you'll need 4 of the small ones...the front will require 2 large (inside L&R), and 2 small (outside L & R).

3. Air tools: If this job is going to get done, you need an air compressor and a serious impact wrench, and a full set of sockets (most fasteners I'm working with are 1/2", 9/16", 11/16", 3/4", 13/16", and 7/8"...regular and deep...I think I ran across an 18mm, too.) A cutter or grinder would be helpful for cutting ubolts. I was lucky enough to get the ubolt nuts off because....

4. Soaking bolts ahead of time: Every nut and bolt needs to get PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench or Kroil, or something. Every thread says this, but seriously...don't screw around. Assembly time is precious. Don't waste it because you only did a day or two of soaking beforehand. Don't spend time fighting to get a simple nut free.

5. Sawzall: Have one handy, with a few new blades. When you try to use an impact wrench to get the frame-mounted leaf spring bolts off --- but they won't turn because they're siezed to the bushings --- you'll spend WAAAAY too much time trying to figure out how to get it off if you don't have a Sawzall. Get the Sawzall blade between the inside of the frame mount and the bushing, and get cutting. A few seconds with a 14 or 18tpi metal blade is a life(and time)saver. Same thing with stubborn ubolt nuts, or ubolts with mashed threads. Cut through them at the top of the axle...just be careful not to cut into the axle tube itself.

6. Fitting the New Springs to Your Old Jeep's Axle: Chances are that your new leaf springs are painted with a thick coat of paint or other coating. When you remove the old springs, take 30 seconds and clean out the hole in the spring perch that locates the springs' centering pins with a Dremel brush or stone, and remove any globs/runs of paint on the center pin. If you don't, you might find that the paint causes you some trouble by clogging the hole in the perch and won't let you situate the springs into the perches properly. So, clean the holes out and save yourself some fitting time!

7. Unexpected upgrades - and expected ones, too: If you're like me, you'll find yourself fixing stuff while you're upgrading. Buy EVERYTHING before you start, and have it sitting, waiting to install. Case in point: Stuff like swaybar bushings. Now, most will say "get rid of the swaybar and trackbar---you don't need them!".
But if you're not comfortable with removing them, you may as well maintain the integrity of the factory parts. Once you've disassembled the front end, and you see that the bushings on the sway bar and the sway bar links have seen better days, you'll wish you had them in hand, because you'll want to get them installed ASAP, and not spending precious time chasing them down.

If you're going for a taller lift, and a Slip-Yoke Eliminator (SYE) is in the plans, why not do it now?

8. Sway bar link pin: Speaking of sway bar link bushings...Assuming that you're going to keep the swaybar, you'll want to know that the upper bushing is held on the swaybar by a tapered pin that's threaded on one end (a castle nut and cotterpin fasten the pin, which holds the link to the swaybar). Where the new bushing's instructions say "You may need to tap on the pin to remove it from the sway bar", it should really say:

"You can beat the threaded end of the pin like a borrowed mule, but you will deform the threads no matter how careful you are. Since there isn't a new one included in the bushing kit, you'll need to purchase a new one. (Jeep will gladly sell you a new one for ~$35.00, or you can try to chase one down at the pick-and-pull.) Regardless, you won't be able to get it off the sway bar until you smack the non-threaded end back and forth a bunch of times to loosen it up. Lock it in a big vice to give you leverage."

9. Removing the steering stabilizer: If you have what appears to be the original stabilizer, it'll be a pain it the *** to get it off. Go ahead and try a bunch of different pullers, or use wood blocks to stabilize the tie rod against the axle tube and smack the end of the bolt with a hammer. However, since a pin and a tapered bushing hold the stabilizer to the tie rod, you'll be really tempted to hammer on the threaded end of the pin until it's deformed...once you do this, it can't be pushed out of the hole.
There's an easier way to do this job: Using a cut-off wheel or grinder, cut the stabilizer's hoop & bushing from the end that's attached to the tie rod. With the hoop and bushing cut off, and the other end unbolted, remove the body of the stabilizer from the Heep. What's left is the pin with a hex body. Fit your impact wrench over the hex bolt from the back side, and you'll break it free in three seconds.

10. While I'm at it...Get new soft brake lines. You've got the whole front end apart, why not do a brake job while you're at it? You can get new rubber or braided stainless steel lines, but it's pretty much a universal preference to go with SS lines. (I also replaced all of the hard lines at the same time, but that was another story!)

11. Clean-up: Get a few bottles of Fast Orange. Quickest hand clean-up ever.

12. Rear track bar: Removal of the rear track bar will make lining up the rear spring fasteners a lot easier. Remember that the stock, non-adjustable track bar is intended to keep the axle centered at stock height. When you lift the frame up from the axle with taller springs, you'll find that the track bar will not be long enough to easily fit back into the bracket. Search for the many "Do I need track bars on my YJ?" threads. Whether you decide to keep it off is up to you...FYI, I removed the track bar, and found no difference in handling. Give it a whirl.

13. Front track bar: If you keep the front track bar after the lift springs are installed, you'll find that your track bar will now keep your front suspension "bound up". Your springs don't want to be forced to the side. They want to be free! Removing the front track bar will make your Heep ride quite a bit more softly. Again, see the many "Do I need track bars on my YJ?" threads.

14. Over-zealous tightening: When a new lift is on, along with new shocks, etc., some folks complain about the "rough ride". More often than not, this issue is due to frame- and shackle mounting bolts on the new springs being WAAAAY too tight. Check to make sure that the bolts are at the right torque using a torque wrench. If you don't have one, and don't have much $$, get a cheap one from Harbor Freight, or borrow one.

15. Alignment: Get an alignment done when you're finished. You can do it yourself (search the forum) or you can take it to a shop. Either way, make sure that the Jeep is aligned.

16. The test drive: Should be self-explanatory, but you now have a modified vehicle. Even if you chose to keep the track bars and swaybar, your Heep will handle differently. Take it easy!

[Mean Max]

I agree with #4 being a PITA, that's just 1 of the many reasons I threw my entire sway bar & hardware away.

Problem solved, enjoy adult beverages!

BTW, nice thread!

Max

[fratis]

biggest mistake, and time waister, first time suspension assemblers make is trying to unbolt everything. wherever you can just cut the old stuff off and use new hardware. for example, instead of dealing with mangled and rusted ubolts, just cut them in half at the apex of the "u."

[shinerm02]

biggest mistake, and time waister, first time suspension assemblers make is trying to unbolt everything. wherever you can just cut the old stuff off and use new hardware. for example, instead of dealing with mangled and rusted ubolts, just cut them in half at the apex of the "u."

X2 What Fratis said....The sawzall and cut off wheel are your friend when removing 14+ year old bolts. Besides who doesn't like a trip to the local Home Depot or Lowes. You usually come home with more than just new bolts!

Off topic: How do you use the quote a previous post?

[Joe Dillard]

Originally Posted by squibload

Hey all- I'm in the process of installing a

BTW: Those are rookie mistakes.

[Mean Max]

Originally Posted by Joe Dillard

BTW: Those are rookie mistakes.

Everybody starts at the bottom. Ignorance of the pitfalls is non-prejudicial, everybody learns stuff the hard way.



Max

[Joe Dillard]

Originally Posted by Mean Max

everybody learns stuff the hard way.

I suppose that folks who have a slow learning curve do.

[Mean Max]

Originally Posted by Joe Dillard

I suppose that folks who have a slow learning curve do.

So everything you've ever done has gone well initially? I find that hard to believe.

Max

[squibload]

Originally Posted by Joe Dillard

BTW: Those are rookie mistakes.

Yeah, I'm just looking out for the other rookies out there who are trying to learn stuff on their own. Since you've been a pro from birth, I'll be looking directly to you for additional supportive commentary in the future.

Originally Posted by Joe Dillard

I suppose that folks who have a slow learning curve do.

Hey, there's one now! So, not only am I inexperienced, but I'm dense, too!


-squib

[RockWoRM]

some things to think about...

Originally Posted by squibload

3. Unexpected upgrades:
don't see "SYE" in there!


6. While I'm at it...Get new soft brake lines. You've got the whole front end apart, why not do a brake job while you're at it?
why not SS braided lines?

WRM

[squibload]

Originally Posted by RockWoRM

some things to think about...

WRM

Not going for a SYE at this time, since it's just a 2.5" lift.

Re. soft lines: Good clarification. I have braided SS ready to go in, but mentioned "soft" since I'm also replacing the "hard" lines, front-to-back, as well.
-squib

[squibload]

Sawzall...a disassembler's best friend...updated first post!

[Joe Dillard]

Originally Posted by squibload

Yeah, I'm just looking out for the other rookies out there who are trying to learn stuff on their own. Since you've been a pro from birth, I'll be looking directly to you for additional supportive commentary in the future.

Hey, there's one now! So, not only am I inexperienced, but I'm dense, too!


-squib

I think you've got me all wrong. I was just trying to add a bit of dry humor to things. Stick around for a bit & you'll quickly see that I poke more fun at myself than the entire forum combined.

[mbecnel]

Good post. I'll be doing a 91 soon and the info will come in handy

[hillie4life]

I definitely agree with cutting the u-bolts at the top, would have saved me time if I had just done that from the beginning instead of just the frustrated end.... just be sure not to accidentally cut into your new brake lines or whatnot.