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Unread 09-08-2008, 09:42 PM   #1
JaySpencer66
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YJ Fuel Filler relocation

Here is one of the more practical and visible projects that I just finished on the Jeep, taking the fuel filler out from behind the rear license plate and moving it to the rear quarter panel, behind the driver.

It took about 5 hours in total over the course of a couple of weekends, starting on Monday afternoon of the Labor Day weekend. On the first weekend I stopped when I was satisfied that I had made the cut where I needed it and that the screw holes were properly drilled and tapped. I finished the following weekend by installing the surround. The raw edges of the cuts and holes were painted with Duraliner, after cleaning all the exposed metal, so I wont have to worry about rust there.

Here's the original location behind the license plate.


I marked the new location using the gasket for the new surround as my template for the cutting and drilling. I taped the whole area with blue painter's tape to protect it from any accidental damage and to leave me a surface to mark for the cuts. I measured all the placements of the wheel well and top of the upper part with an adjustable right angle square to find all the locations to avoid them.

With those locations noted I drew a vertical line to mark the inner wheel well's closest point, and the horizontal line for the top of the inside of the Jeep, and then avoided the seam to the right. With all my landmark's established I marked my cut and drill locations and started to cut.



After the cut was made I saw that I had to come over about 1/2 inch to the right because it was just a hair too close to the wheel well , so I made new lines to adjust over. I used a 5" hole saw to make the first cut and a small reciprocating saw to finish the adjusted cut on the right hand side. The vertical piece of metal was a little part of the wheel well wall that was in the cut area. For added breathing room I used a piece of 1 inch square stake and a 3lb hammer to smash it out of the way a little, just knocking it back into the wheel well by about inch in total.


Here is the final cut with screw holes tapped out.

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Unread 09-08-2008, 09:46 PM   #2
JaySpencer66
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The silver tape was duct tape that I used inside the cut to protect everything in the week in between making the cut and the completion of the project. The silver was duct tape that I put inside to protect everything from the elements in the week between stages.


Here is a closeup of the hole, and you can see the one of the original filler lines inside.


This is the original filler location with the license plate and frame out of the way.

This is the new Kentrol TJ style fuel filler that I got from Quadratec.com for $44+Shipping with the old filler that I removed from the truck sitting behind it to verify that all the holes, miraculously, lined up perfectly!!



NOTE: With the hole cut in the body for the relocation and the license plate, fuel filler and surround removed I was able to reach into it from the left side and the right to do all the work.
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Last edited by JaySpencer66; 09-09-2008 at 07:57 AM.. Reason: Added a detailed Note at the end.
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Unread 09-08-2008, 09:47 PM   #3
JaySpencer66
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The new replacement fuel lines were straight pieces of gas/oil/solvent proof 3/4 inch for the vent line and 1 inch for the filler line. With the filler dry fitted I cut back the old fuel filler and gas lines to leave a gap of a couple of inches to leave me with a little play for the stainless steel tube that I was using to bridge the new location to the old lines. (NOTE: The stainless steel tubing, NOT PIPE was 3/4" and 1" OD to fit inside the vent and filler hoses that had a 3/4" and 1" ID.)
Below is just the filler line in place with the stainless steel tube that bridged the old to the new setup:


And here is the filler line as well as the vent line in place, with the new lines in place on the upper left, the stainless steel tubing in the middle, and the old lines on the lower right side. The top line is the 3/4 inch inner diameter vent hose and the bottom is the 1 inch inner diameter filler line.

(The red lines were the marks I made on the stainless steel tubing to let me check the depth I was inserting them into the fill and vent lines. The stainless steel tubing I used had the same outer diameter as the inner diameters of the filler and vent lines, one inch and three quarters of an inch respectively.) As a safety measure I covered the exposed stainless steel tubing with silicon tape to prevent any static issues given that there is wiring for the tail lights and gas pump in there as well as the simple proximity of the two pieces of metal to each other. (I did not forget the hose clamp on the filler line on the bottom, I just took the picture before I put it in place.)

Here is the new surround finished and screwed down and in place. As you can see I chipped the paint on the new filler, but that is something I plan to touch up next weekend.


Here are the lines all clamped with the silicon tape I wrapped around them to prevent static arcing or discharging between the pieces of steel and anything in the area.
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Last edited by JaySpencer66; 09-09-2008 at 06:46 AM.. Reason: Add a CRITICAL note about the ID and OD of the tubes and pipes in bold.
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Unread 09-08-2008, 09:48 PM   #4
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And here is a shot of the back of the filler and the lines running to them. Notice that the vent stayed at the top, above the filler line, exactly as it was in the original setup.


I am going to be adding a locking fuel filler door to get a cleaner look and to protect the cap from the elements:

And after that is installed I will be closing the old opening in the back with a piece of steel that I plan to rivet in.

Going cheap the costs for materials was only about $100 for all the tubes, a new surround and the hose clamps. Adding a little for the optional fuel filler door brings it to about $200 in total and I can tell you all that after my first fill up I am happy as all get for having done it. There was no stooping at the fill up at all, and because it is not on as close a level with the fuel tank the potential to so easily over fill the tank is massively reduced. I tried to get it to over fill and while I could do it, it was tough.

If you wanted or needed to cheap out on this mod you could by using the old surround and filler and cutting them into the side of the truck but you would still need the stainless steel inc and 1 inch outer diameter tubing and the neoprene tubing of the same diameter. I am not sure if there is a door to cover the square filler the way there is for the round filler either. Keep in mind that the tubing that runs into the tank is flared going into the gas tank, with the filler flaring to 1x1/4 inch and the vent to a full 1 inch inner diameter. 1 foot of all the tubes and pipes is more then enough for the project and then 3 host clamps for each pipe/tube.
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Unread 09-08-2008, 09:58 PM   #5
timatoe
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Nice job. This is one of the best mods I've done, you definately won't regret it.
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Unread 09-08-2008, 10:00 PM   #6
Brandon_YJ
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Nice job man, nice job.
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Unread 09-08-2008, 10:59 PM   #7
Barrio
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nice job!


i know what my next mod is now!
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Unread 09-09-2008, 04:27 AM   #8
YJames90
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Nice job. Would the original filler work? Just relocate it? I may have an idea
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Unread 09-09-2008, 05:37 AM   #9
jeepwrnglr92
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looks good. I have to do this at some point.

I have a tire carrier and I have to open it to drop the plate and fill the beast.
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Unread 09-09-2008, 06:42 AM   #10
JaySpencer66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesx2 View Post
Nice job. Would the original filler work? Just relocate it? I may have an idea
Thank you all for the good words! My first fill up was SWEET by the way! I felt like a human being and not a hunched over Quasimodo as I did it. I had some odd looks from the other people at the gas station as I was pulling open the license plate with my right hand and filling with the left when I was checking for leaks and bad fittings.

I don't see any reason why the original filler would not work and it would save you money too ~Buying a TJ fuel surround would run you about $50 new.

You would then only need 6 hose clamps, about 6 inches of straight pieces of gas and solvant resistant pieces of tubing at 3/4" and 1" id for the vent and filler lines and 6 inches of stainless steel tubing at 3/4" and 1" od.

The only disadvantage I see is that I don't think you could then use a TJ style fuel door, locking or not. You would also want to consider replacing the cap with a locking one to stop the industrious folks who might realize that a filled up Jeep has $55 to $72 of gas in the tank depenting on if has a 15 or 20 gallon tank. (At $3.60/gal).
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Unread 09-09-2008, 07:20 AM   #11
JaySpencer66
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My parts and tool list, that I forgot to add in the beginning:
1 x 1 foot piece of gas/solvant resistant hose, .75" ID
1 x 1 foor piece of gas/solvant resistant hose, 1" ID
Colvin Motor Parts‎
2273 Babylon Tpke, Merrick, NY‎ - (516) 379-2420
(PETE YOU ROCK MAN!)
$15

3 hose clamps at .75-1.25" (Filler line)
3 hose clamps at .5-1.00" (Vent Line)
(Any auto or home improvement store)
$10

Silicon self stick tape
$2

1 x 1 foot piece of Stainless steel tubing, .75" OD
1 x 1 foor piece of Stainless steel tubing, 1" OD
http://www.onlinemetals.com/
$30

Optional parts:
Kentrol Polished Stainless Steel Fuel Filler Bezel
Quadratec
$55 (With Shipping to NY)

AMI Billet Locking Fuel Door in Black Powder Coat Aluminum
Quadratec
$108 (with shipping to NY)

Locking Gas Cap
$15 (apx)

~You could get some of the optional parts in a junk yard or other second hand way and save some money there too.~

Tools:
Hose cutter (You can use a utility knife but it will be a little tougher in the body of the jeep to do this.)
Drill mounted hole saw at least 5" in diameter OR a metal saw in either a sabre type or sawzall
Grinder with a cut off wheel and a grinding wheel
Drill and metal bits
Screw driver
T20 Torx
1/4" wratchet set for the small bolts or a 6 in 1 screw driver because the filler bolts fit the large socket end on it.

The total price at minimal cost is about $60 possibly less if you can get cheaper stainless steel tubing then I got or have a local place so you can save shipping or possibly get some cast off pieces. If the latter your minimal materials cost, without any of the optional parts, could be $30 or less.

With the options, about $230.

WARNING: DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL PIPE, ONLY TUBE.
DO NOT USE ANYTHING OTHER THEN STAINLESS STEEL EITHER.
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Unread 09-09-2008, 10:11 AM   #12
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I did the same mod a couple months ago and I agree it is much easier for filling up with gas. I used the stock filler pipe and some stainless tubing. I picked up the surround and license plate mount from daveys jeeps off a used tj. My total cost was about $35.00. It was a fun project and only took about 2 hours.

Henry
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Unread 09-09-2008, 10:33 AM   #13
timatoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaySpencer66 View Post
The only disadvantage I see is that I don't think you could then use a TJ style fuel door, locking or not.
Just an FYI the TJ door replaces the stock plastic bezel, so that's also an option for anyone looking to do this.
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Unread 09-09-2008, 10:52 AM   #14
JaySpencer66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timatoe View Post
Just an FYI the TJ door replaces the stock plastic bezel, so that's also an option for anyone looking to do this.
I'm talking about a door alone, unless you mean that the surround and door are sold as one unit, which would not be tragic, except then I will have spent an extra $50 that I didn't have to spend!
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Unread 09-09-2008, 10:55 AM   #15
JaySpencer66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yj_hank View Post
I did the same mod a couple months ago and I agree it is much easier for filling up with gas. I used the stock filler pipe and some stainless tubing. I picked up the surround and license plate mount from daveys jeeps off a used tj. My total cost was about $35.00. It was a fun project and only took about 2 hours.

Henry
Part of my extra time was:
1) Being cautious and looking and measuring a lot
2) Having to run to the car store for hose clamps, cause I bought them and put them in a "safe place!" (I suppose they'll show up some time next year in my shop or garage.)
3) Having to run to Colvin for the tubing because I did not want to use any more of the old tubing then I needed to use.
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