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Unread 04-07-2006, 05:09 PM   #1
YJ-Mike
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YJ Build Plan

I would like some comment on my build plan before I go ahead and start spending a ton of cash on things I shouldn't, etc.

So:

- 1988 YJ frame, stripped, cleaned, painted with Rustshield w/ extra hardener added - DONE

- 2004 TJ 4.0L engine w/ 4K miles - picked this up for $1400, includes wiring harness, stage 2 chip, throttle body, computer, radiator, alternator, starter, exhaust header, etc. Should be here next week.

- 2004 NV3550 - 0 miles (brand new, no bellhousing or ext slave)

- Ford 8.8 in the rear - Currently 3.55's, but will probably go with 4.10's eventually

- D30 front - again 3.55's, going to 4.10's

- NP231 xfer case w/ 27K miles - getting this for $550 (includes bellhousing and external slave cylinder for xmission)

- RE 4" lift kit

- 1" body lift

- 33" meats

- Picked up a hard top for $350, just gotta score some full doors

- This Jeep is going to be a graduation present for my son. It will be his daily driver. I wanted to build him a good rig with a new(er) power train that he can wheel on some reasonable trails.

- Now for a couple of questions:

- Do I need a SYE and CV shaft with this setup, or can I just go with a 1" MML and call it good?
- Is the transfer case bracket for the shift mount from Advance Adapters necessary? I know it is only like $41, but it all adds up.

Please provide constructive criticism if you see anything that I should do differently.

I also have some parts for sale to help finance this thread. I will put them up in the selling forum and add a link here.

Thanks,

Mike


Last edited by YJ-Mike; 04-07-2006 at 05:22 PM..
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Unread 04-07-2006, 05:35 PM   #2
YJ-Mike
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Here is the link to things I have for sale. I just added a Rough Country lift kit, and a 21 spline NP231.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=250334

Thanks,

Mike
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Unread 04-07-2006, 05:37 PM   #3
stilltippin
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if i were you i would look for some different axles as long as you dont have anyhting together yet since it is gonna be a DD. like some bigger gears and maybe a slip locker in the back. i have a similar setup minus the new motor/trans, but you wont need the cv and sye for now. You dont even need the MML, but of corse do it cuz you have it all apart. but sounds like an awsome grad present- i wish i was your son!
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Unread 04-07-2006, 05:46 PM   #4
fire11774
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Mike buddy trust me when I say this if your changing the gears for a 4 banger and want you kid to go freeway speeds. gear 4.56 or 4.88 skip the 4.10 thats what I have now not cutting it. oh and change rear flares to tj style trust me! SYE is a must if you want security and with 33" inches of rubber turning you want security trust me!
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Unread 04-07-2006, 06:15 PM   #5
YJ-Mike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fire11774
Mike buddy trust me when I say this if your changing the gears for a 4 banger and want you kid to go freeway speeds. gear 4.56 or 4.88 skip the 4.10 thats what I have now not cutting it. oh and change rear flares to tj style trust me! SYE is a must if you want security and with 33" inches of rubber turning you want security trust me!
It is a 4.0L, not a 4-banger. So I should at least go with 4.56's huh?

Thanks for the input guys, keep it coming,

Mike

Last edited by YJ-Mike; 04-07-2006 at 08:03 PM..
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Unread 04-07-2006, 09:34 PM   #6
z71offroader
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4:10s should work fine with the 4.0 and 33s. u could have found a 4:10 front and rear axle and not have to regear them. the R.E kit i believe comes with a 1" t-case drop so u should be fine for a driveshaft angle and have no vibs, but if u do a mml would solve that.
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Unread 04-07-2006, 10:05 PM   #7
YJ-Mike
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I got both axles in a deal from a co-worker who decided not to finish his project. Included in the deal was a frame (stripped, cleaned, Rustshielded), Rough Country lift kit, greasable shackles, shackle reversal kit, brand new NV3550, 4.2L, Puke-Yo, 21 spline NP231, polyurethane bushing set, and a bunch of other stuff that I can't recall right now for $1300. At that price I can't complain about the gearing in the axles, especially when the tranny would cost that much or more.

A transfer case drop kinda defeats the purpose of putting on a lift kit in the first place, but then again this is going to mostly be a DD for the kid. I want to build him a nice rig that he can wheel on moderate trails and not have to worry about something breaking. I know things always break off-road, and if funds weren't an issue I would build him a bomb-proof rig. But, like all of us, there is always something that seems to gobble up those extra funds, so I have to settle for building him a semi-capable rig. I know that the D30 is crap, and that I shouldn't put a lot of money into it. So I am just going to put in the 4.10's and call it good until later on down the road when more funds become available to put something beefier up front.

Thanks for all the input,

Mike

Last edited by YJ-Mike; 04-09-2006 at 02:16 AM..
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Unread 04-08-2006, 02:41 AM   #8
YJ-Mike
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I was just reading over on the JU forums, and someone stated that the std duty Re 4" lifts will sag pretty badly. Anyone have any experience with this? The extreme duty 4.5" is a budget buster. Also, when I called Quadratec yesterday afternoon, the salesguy stated that BDS was barely a step above Rough Country.

So, what does everyone recommend?

I want to order the lift next Friday so I could really use some input.

Thanks,

Mike
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Unread 04-08-2006, 06:03 AM   #9
Fastbeeatch
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There is nothing wrong with a t.c. drop on a d.d. tha's only going to be wheeled lightly. Also the D30 is a good axle that will have no problems handling the 33's even with a locker. All springs are going to sag some especialy with the 4.0 and a hard top, after a year you can add some lift shackel if you need them.
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Unread 04-08-2006, 07:59 AM   #10
Don-T
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Since you have not installed the motor yet, put in the MM lift and forget about the xfer case drop umless you have vibration when you are finished. It only takes 15 minutes to go back and add the xfer case drop later.

Past experience says you will be fine with 33" tires and 4.10 gears.

The xfer case shift bracket is best with a four bolt mount, otherwise they are sloppy. If the AA mount is the four bolt I would get it unless you can find one local for less money.
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Unread 04-08-2006, 08:56 AM   #11
drexelsteve
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sounds like a perfect combo to me. I woulda held out and got the rears with 4.10's already installed. Woulda saved ya some dough. But since you're planning on regearing i'd opt for 4.56 or 4.88 and step up to some 35's. Some tj flares and maybe some 1" boom shackles should be all the added clearance you'll need and it'll give the whole rig a bit more beef. They'll hold up fine against the axles you've selected. But if you stick with the 33's then 4.10's will be perfect.
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Unread 04-08-2006, 11:42 AM   #12
lost in mud
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man you got one lucky son..sounds like a great combo but keep in mind if you decide to go with the 4.10's and your son one day wants to go with bigger meats then he will have to regear all over again. 4.56's or 4.88's are the best route to go in my opinion, that way he has room to grow because once he gets the jeep hes just going to want to keep adding and adding....that will never stop
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Unread 04-08-2006, 05:33 PM   #13
CRAZYJ1988
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i have a set of champagne?? full doors pretty good condition if you want them ill let them go for around 400

lmk
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Unread 04-09-2006, 02:11 AM   #14
YJ-Mike
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I will bend to the will of the masses and go with 4.56's since I have to re-gear anyhow . As for the tires, I think I will stick with the 33's. If he wants to go up to 35's, he can pay the difference for the wheels and tires.

I will add the M.O.R.E. 1" MML to the list and try it without the TC drop kit.

Lost in Mud,

I wouldn't say he is lucky. He is a good, hard-working kid, a 14 year cancer survivor, and has definitely earned this. He is also providing 25% of the funds for the project, and 50% of the labor. So, he will have sweat equity into the project, as well as the satisfaction of knowing how every single piece works, goes together, etc.
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Unread 04-09-2006, 03:55 AM   #15
Shane_C
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You'll love the 3550. I'm running one in my 87 Yj with 36's. The 4.01 first gear really helps get things moving
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