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Unread 12-23-2012, 10:13 AM   #1
ldso
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yj 2.5 freeze plug under bellhousing advice

Hey Guys, so the YJ water pump failed on the trail a couple weeks ago. Long story short it sat on the curb here at home for a couple weeks with no coolant. Apparently there was some water in the block, because now that the water pump is replaced, coolant just runs out from between the bellhousing and the tranny.

I've found some threads here that confirm what my Haines manual says, that it is a freeze plug.

So the question is, is it really a freeze plug? Do I really have to drop the tranny to change it? Some people even suggest pulling the motor instead.

I've pretty much had everything off of the motor before, but I don't have an engine hoist. I would much rather drop the tranny if that is what it is. I have a body lift so there is some clearance in there between the tub and the bellhousing.

It's a bummer because my water pump install was a nice clean job, I thought I was good to go!

If I really have to pull the motor - geez. The 2.5 and AX5 have like 175k miles on them. Opens a whole can of worms.

Thanks for any advice guys

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1995 YJ "Mabel", 2.5L Muncie SM465 np231j 4.88's HP30 Lockright JK 44 Detroit 33s CJ clip

Actually, it's pronounced "mill-e-wah-que" which is Algonquin for "the good land."
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Unread 12-23-2012, 12:31 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by ldso View Post
Hey Guys, so the YJ water pump failed on the trail a couple weeks ago. Long story short it sat on the curb here at home for a couple weeks with no coolant. Apparently there was some water in the block, because now that the water pump is replaced, coolant just runs out from between the bellhousing and the tranny.

I've found some threads here that confirm what my Haines manual says, that it is a freeze plug.

So the question is, is it really a freeze plug? yes its an acutal freeze plug Do I really have to drop the tranny to change it? yes the trans needs to come out.Some people even suggest pulling the motor instead. Alot of work to pull the motor. Trans comes out alot easier. While your in there change the clutch wear parts. You will need an E12 socket for the top bolts on the trans. You can get to those with a long extention from the top through the shifter hole.

I've pretty much had everything off of the motor before, but I don't have an engine hoist. I would much rather drop the tranny if that is what it is. I have a body lift so there is some clearance in there between the tub and the bellhousing.

It's a bummer because my water pump install was a nice clean job, I thought I was good to go!

If I really have to pull the motor - geez. The 2.5 and AX5 have like 175k miles on them. Opens a whole can of worms.

Thanks for any advice guys
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Unread 12-23-2012, 12:53 PM   #3
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There is 2 of them back there.
freeze-plugs.jpg  
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Unread 12-23-2012, 06:20 PM   #4
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Stick a jack stand under the oil pan with a piece of wood to spread the load and keep from denting in the sheetmetal. Then you can just leave the engine hanging there as you pull out everything else. Its how I always do it anyhow. The top 2 bolts on the bellhousing are the fun ones - 18mm BTW.

ETA thanks for the pic, thats *exactly* what I meant!
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Unread 12-23-2012, 06:50 PM   #5
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here's a good pic for you!
76.jpg  
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Unread 12-24-2012, 07:17 AM   #6
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Replace them both while you are in there; if one went, the other is a ticking time bomb.
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Unread 12-25-2012, 04:32 PM   #7
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Awesome, thanks for the pics and advice guys. I pulled the shifter but that's as far as I got before Christmas. My pop suggested that I get a clutch kit while the tranny is out. I hate putting money in the AX5 tho... lar308 said he could come out Saturday to help, which is awesome.

Merry Christmas
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1995 YJ "Mabel", 2.5L Muncie SM465 np231j 4.88's HP30 Lockright JK 44 Detroit 33s CJ clip

Actually, it's pronounced "mill-e-wah-que" which is Algonquin for "the good land."
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Unread 12-25-2012, 06:23 PM   #8
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Any thoughts of replacing the rear main seal while there? Gotta have the tranny off got that too . I def agree with new clutch assembly with that mileage.
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yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
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You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 12-25-2012, 08:13 PM   #9
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Any thoughts of replacing the rear main seal while there? Gotta have the tranny off got that too . I def agree with new clutch assembly with that mileage.
yup and put that seal in RIGHT! i messed up putting in mine while i had the engine out and seeing that oil dripping out the bell housing was the worst feeling. dropped the trans and had it fixed in a saturday but i was still not happy about it haha
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Unread 12-26-2012, 07:54 AM   #10
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Any thoughts of replacing the rear main seal while there? Gotta have the tranny off got that too . I def agree with new clutch assembly with that mileage.
I had not considered that, Dude. Hmm. So I should do that too? It's a 2.5L, I know they need replaced on the I6's regularly.
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1995 YJ "Mabel", 2.5L Muncie SM465 np231j 4.88's HP30 Lockright JK 44 Detroit 33s CJ clip

Actually, it's pronounced "mill-e-wah-que" which is Algonquin for "the good land."
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Unread 12-26-2012, 07:57 AM   #11
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Okay so a guy is selling a 1994 Dakota 5spd for the same price as a clutch kit for the AX5. I am researching but i think that the Dakota used an AX15 up to 2000, and it would have the right bellhousing for my 2.5L. I would rather fix up an AX15 than my AX5. Am I on the right track?

It looks like they cut the shifter off with a grinder haha, I wonder if the AX5 shifter fits.

If I need to drop the tranny I want to do everything right, in hopes that I won't need to touch any of that stuff for a long time. That's why replacing u-joints turned into an axle swap/rebuild/regear project last winter. Apparently I'm not getting rid of this rusty old YJ anytime soon.
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1995 YJ "Mabel", 2.5L Muncie SM465 np231j 4.88's HP30 Lockright JK 44 Detroit 33s CJ clip

Actually, it's pronounced "mill-e-wah-que" which is Algonquin for "the good land."
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Unread 12-26-2012, 10:21 AM   #12
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I had not considered that, Dude. Hmm. So I should do that too? It's a 2.5L, I know they need replaced on the I6's regularly.
Its only 5 bucks plus an extra 20 minutes. The logic is to do everything possible all the different tasks when you have the tranny out, since its such a PITA to drop a trans.

Actually dropping it isn't so bad IMHO but getting them back in can bring the suck. Trust me on this big time and get a transmission jack, buy or rent one. It will save untold hours of frustration and sprained busted tendons and muscles. Its a heavy awkward pig that weighs a few hundred lbs. I've had to bench press them back in (when I was much younger).

You can find cheap but effective trans jacks at autozone of harbor freight for less than 100, better "pro" models are online or snap-on for lots of $$$ or at tool rental places. It really is worth it to have one around - trying to use a regular jack means that the trans can fall and crush you. Been there, done that.

Might as well get the pilot bearing (at least lube it) and sand the flywheel while yer under there. Thankfully the jeep doesn't need to be jacked up much to drag the trans completely out from under it. Just 6 inches should do,
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Unread 12-26-2012, 11:04 AM   #13
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Entirely up to you on the RMS but of course now would be the right situation since you're gonna be staring right at it. The Dakota you need will have a 4 cyl in it, not a 6 cyl version.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 01-02-2013, 11:34 PM   #14
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Entirely up to you on the RMS but of course now would be the right situation since you're gonna be staring right at it. The Dakota you need will have a 4 cyl in it, not a 6 cyl version.
Thanks guys, I appreciate the advice! I finally ordered a freeze plug set and am picking it up tomorrow.

lar308 has an SM465 transmission that he has offered to sell me. I'm 99% sure that is what I'm going to do. I used to have a Chevy pickup with one (gulp - like 20 years ago wtf!). The AX15 is more practical, but the SM465 would just be cool Besides, old Jeeps had 3 and 4 speeds and everybody had fun with them.

The Novak website has the recipe for the swap. I think my rear driveshaft will be happy being extended a little, but the front will need to be shortened. They need balanced anyway. I know where I can get the bellhousing I need to adapt the Chevy transmission to the 2.5L.

That's Jeep logic for ya. Need to change a freeze plug? Do a transmission swap too!
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1995 YJ "Mabel", 2.5L Muncie SM465 np231j 4.88's HP30 Lockright JK 44 Detroit 33s CJ clip

Actually, it's pronounced "mill-e-wah-que" which is Algonquin for "the good land."
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Unread 01-03-2013, 08:24 AM   #15
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Sounds cool - ISTR you can use the bell from any 60-degree v-6 chevy such as the early S-10 pickups with the 2.8L and adapt the trans that way. The AMC block has the same pattern. I used to have an SM465 yrs ago too, and it was awesome in 1st gear.... it was so low that it was almost useless unless you were climbing trees or pulling a bus.
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